Beginner Looking for Some Advice About Driveshaft Damage (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter OKMattezai
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- Thread starter
- #22
I hear you, I first had a wheel bearing noise crop up and did a full front axle rebuild and front brake job. It seemed okay in there overall but whoever did it last did not use a socket on the lock nuts and just hammered them in with a chisel, sharp burrs on the ends and the lock washers were only hammered onto the inner lock nut, so seems the preload just loosened up over time. But it was a nice learning experience and very glad that it's all sorted up there and no longer a mystery. Also had some broken exhaust hangers, so once those were replaced that helped a ton as far as bad vibes go.
Mine is on stock lift, wheels, and tire size, but I have worn u-joints and the driveshafts are just in rough shape. It's functional but I have that same telltale clunk, squeaking, driveline drone and vibration from the rear, and whirring on deceleration. I don't think the previous owner ever greased the u-joints or slip yoke, lots of play. Both driveshafts seem tapped out. Functional, but not ideal. So I'm hoping to replace them as the OEM ones aren't too crazy in price and keep the old ones as spares. Hopefully it'll solve some of the noises.
What's your lift and suspension setup? Did you go with e-lockers?
Mine is on stock lift, wheels, and tire size, but I have worn u-joints and the driveshafts are just in rough shape. It's functional but I have that same telltale clunk, squeaking, driveline drone and vibration from the rear, and whirring on deceleration. I don't think the previous owner ever greased the u-joints or slip yoke, lots of play. Both driveshafts seem tapped out. Functional, but not ideal. So I'm hoping to replace them as the OEM ones aren't too crazy in price and keep the old ones as spares. Hopefully it'll solve some of the noises.
What's your lift and suspension setup? Did you go with e-lockers?
I guess I really should start a build thread...or link to my driveshaft thread at least.
Had the vehicle a year, bought it neglected and bone stock, aside from a set of 315s on factory wheels. I did a dobinsons spring/BP51 shock lift, delta arms, OME panhard bars and rear links, arb lockers, Yukon 4.88s and a bumper/winch/sliders. Not to mention loads of maintenance. Been fighting the driveline vibe since the lift. Did a double cardan front shaft to cure the noise from there, but haven't found the silver bullet for the rear. Currently back on the oem rear shaft with new ujoints and it's almost tolerable.
Had the vehicle a year, bought it neglected and bone stock, aside from a set of 315s on factory wheels. I did a dobinsons spring/BP51 shock lift, delta arms, OME panhard bars and rear links, arb lockers, Yukon 4.88s and a bumper/winch/sliders. Not to mention loads of maintenance. Been fighting the driveline vibe since the lift. Did a double cardan front shaft to cure the noise from there, but haven't found the silver bullet for the rear. Currently back on the oem rear shaft with new ujoints and it's almost tolerable.
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- Thread starter
- #24
Sounds like a sweet build! I'm still learning the ropes offroad, as well as in the garage, so keeping mine stock for now. It was also fairly neglected. Figure I'll learn to work on the rig on my own as I go. I'm hoping to build up to some more intense trails eventually, and once that time comes maybe a small 2.5" or so lift and 35s. But down the road for me, pun intended.
Yours looks very clean, basically rust free, which is awesome. Mine is mostly sound but has some mild corrosion in parts, had to do some wire brushing and rust dissolving. Luckily I bought it after I left the Midwest for the West Coast so it shouldn't have to worry about those lovely Great Lakes winters!
Yours looks very clean, basically rust free, which is awesome. Mine is mostly sound but has some mild corrosion in parts, had to do some wire brushing and rust dissolving. Luckily I bought it after I left the Midwest for the West Coast so it shouldn't have to worry about those lovely Great Lakes winters!
The white lines on the ends of the flanges should both point in the same direction.
First remove the plastic kerapp, then orient the differential end of the shaft with the white lines pointing straight upward toward the ceiling (12 O'clock) then take a photo from the other end looking back, and post it up.
First remove the plastic kerapp, then orient the differential end of the shaft with the white lines pointing straight upward toward the ceiling (12 O'clock) then take a photo from the other end looking back, and post it up.
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- Thread starter
- #26
Got everything lined up per directions. Thanks again for all the advice! Gonna install tomorrow and see how it drives.
Pulled out the old shaft today. Wondering if anyone might have insight on this old slip yolk? It has corrosion on the sleeve, a part that is normally shiny, like on the new shaft on the top of this picture.
When I go to compress the slip yolk, even with the zerk taken off and having made sure there isn't any excess grease in it, it will not go past the corroded area. It basically goes a centimeter or so further than in the picture and then just will not budge.
Is it feasible to conclude that this corrosion on the slip yolk is impeding the ability of the shaft to compress any further along what would normally be a compressible section?
Pulled out the old shaft today. Wondering if anyone might have insight on this old slip yolk? It has corrosion on the sleeve, a part that is normally shiny, like on the new shaft on the top of this picture.
When I go to compress the slip yolk, even with the zerk taken off and having made sure there isn't any excess grease in it, it will not go past the corroded area. It basically goes a centimeter or so further than in the picture and then just will not budge.
Is it feasible to conclude that this corrosion on the slip yolk is impeding the ability of the shaft to compress any further along what would normally be a compressible section?
The fit between the seal (inside the dust cover or tube that it slides into) is fairly tight (to keep water out and grease in) so yes, significant corrossion might stop it from being pushed in.
The more important question is, why do you want to push it in?
If you force it you will likely damage the seal which is permanently attached to the inside lip of the dust cover (the narrow end of the driveshaft that the slip yolk slides into).
The reason it's rusty at that depth is because the slip yolk never had to go past that line into the shaft, so no grease coating it. FWIW when I grease the slip yolk I clean off any grime and old grease that puked out then put a light smear of grease on the exposed section of the slip yolk shaft.
There's also old (and new) grease inside the slip yolk cavity and the driveshaft.
Once you've pulled the slip yolk out (zerk removed helps) you can blast the old grease out with something like CRC (Red can) brake cleaner to remove any remaining old grease followed by WD40 or any other thin oil to keep it from flash rusting. A small brush might help. If you were going to store the old driveshaft I would regrease it before you put it back together.
You could pull the slip yolk out and use a brass wire wheel on a drill to the rusty slip yolk followed by 3M ScotchBright pads and sand the rest down by hand. Start maybe with Red (#7447) and work your way to Ultra Fine.
BTW: Have you driven the vehicle yet with the new driveshaft yet?
This shows the driveshaft dust/water cover that the slip yolk slides into
(cover has been removed from shaft). Note the seal around the inner edge. It's a tight fit against the yolk shaft, keeps water and dirt out, grease in.
The more important question is, why do you want to push it in?
If you force it you will likely damage the seal which is permanently attached to the inside lip of the dust cover (the narrow end of the driveshaft that the slip yolk slides into).
The reason it's rusty at that depth is because the slip yolk never had to go past that line into the shaft, so no grease coating it. FWIW when I grease the slip yolk I clean off any grime and old grease that puked out then put a light smear of grease on the exposed section of the slip yolk shaft.
There's also old (and new) grease inside the slip yolk cavity and the driveshaft.
Once you've pulled the slip yolk out (zerk removed helps) you can blast the old grease out with something like CRC (Red can) brake cleaner to remove any remaining old grease followed by WD40 or any other thin oil to keep it from flash rusting. A small brush might help. If you were going to store the old driveshaft I would regrease it before you put it back together.
You could pull the slip yolk out and use a brass wire wheel on a drill to the rusty slip yolk followed by 3M ScotchBright pads and sand the rest down by hand. Start maybe with Red (#7447) and work your way to Ultra Fine.
BTW: Have you driven the vehicle yet with the new driveshaft yet?
This shows the driveshaft dust/water cover that the slip yolk slides into
(cover has been removed from shaft). Note the seal around the inner edge. It's a tight fit against the yolk shaft, keeps water and dirt out, grease in.
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- Thread starter
- #28
Thanks again for all the great advice! That was very insightful. I'll make sure to re-grease prior to storing the old shaft. I plan on later wire wheeling and using ScotchBright, once I get some more time.
I have run the new driveshaft. I did a short test drive around town slowly bringing it up to highway speed. All is in order, thankfully!
