Beer, Blisters and Blood - Breathing Life Back Into 1991 (1 Viewer)

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Thanks. The intake hose is at the top of my list.
 
I welded for the fist time and it shows. The O2 sensor is on and does not leak. It did not fix the rough idle.

I started playing with the EGR delete. When I unplugged the right most vacuum line on the EGR cutting vacuum to the EGR actuator. The idle raised a bit and smoothed right out. I think I am going to use my EGR key chain in the next few days.

Here is a pic that will make a real welder spit their drink.

It's kind of par for this rig. I'll get my small grinder out and clean it up.

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I welded for the fist time and it shows. The O2 sensor is on and does not leak. It did not fix the rough idle.

I started playing with the EGR delete. When I unplugged the right most vacuum line on the EGR cutting vacuum to the EGR actuator. The idle raised a bit and smoothed right out. I think I am going to use my EGR key chain in the next few days.

Here is a pic that will make a real welder spit their drink.

It's kind of par for this rig. I'll get my small grinder out and clean it up.

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You'd be surprised how many people think you can grind a weld until it's a quality weld..........




Yes, I've done MANY shytty welds on my stuff in my time.......

I also inspect welds as part of my living.....
Correct tools and equipment makes a HUGE difference.
 
There is probably a host of advice that could have helped with a cleaner weld. With that said it's on and it works.

And yes, it was the cheapest HF might welder I could get.

A good weld is a thing of skill and talent!
 
She is alive....sort of. Motor is in and she started right up. There is a very rough idle that I am chasing down. It runs fine when driving. There are many 3fe posts with a similar issue that I am going to start with. Either way, good to have an 80 back in the driveway!

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Awesome to see you got it in and running!!!! I'm still plugging away at the v8....
 
Awesome to see you got it in and running!!!! I'm still plugging away at the v8....
Thanks Mason! You did a great job pulling a usable motor with all accessories! It set me up very well.

Sorry to hear that you have not finished your swap. I'll need to check your string for an update. Hope you get it done soon!
 
Finally replaced rear shocks. All four shock bolts on the top bracket were seized on. After stripping each head I finally found a good method of welding another bolt to the top and spinning them off. The heat and a grade 8 bolt head did the trick.

Pleasant surprise when I started the truck the check engine light was off and it ran much better on idle. The computer must have finally recognized the new O2 sensor.

Took my son out for a ride which he totally loved. He kept saying faster daddy.....I said I'm trying! It's only a 3fe.

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I loved reading through this and catching up on your accomplishments and struggles. I too have a red '91 and definitely hit that watch button to stay on top of your progress. Keep it going and I look forward to learning from you. Also, Go Badgers! UW alum here.
 
I have the weekend to work on the 80. Haven’t had time for about a month.

I was able to solve the rough idle issue.

I used carb cleaner and sprayed each vacuum line. Nothing! Sprayed the air intake. Nothing! I then saw a loose intake manifold bolt so I tightened and check them all. Found 3 loose. This was my error as I forgot to tighten 3 of the 9. After tightening the bolts. It still had a rough idle. Hmmm.

I sprayed the intake gasket area and the rpms jumped. Bingo!!

I had a 3fe complete gasket set for the motor I was going to rebuild so I had the intake gasket.

I installed the intake gasket and bingo. The motor smothed right our. It runs very well now. I amazed how smooth it is.

I then immediately started in replacing all the hard brake lines:)))

Now that the motor is sorted. I need to get the brakes like new again:)

As far as brakes go. I am replacing everything. Everything brake related is getting new parts. I should be done this week sometime I hope!
 

I then saw a loose intake manifold bolt so I tightened and check them all. Found 3 loose. This was my error as I forgot to tighten 3 of the 9. A
This is a kicker for me. I have lost count of the number of times i have forgotten to tighten a bolt or connect wire or hose. Today i just solved a bad smell of gas. Having already redone the charcoal canister and spent ages troubleshooting the vacuum valves I convinced myself it must be the gasket for the filler neck. When i pulled the hatch under the back seats i spotted gas gushing out of the main fuel line. I had previously changed the fuel sock and assumed i had missed or had a bad crush washer turns out i never tightened the banjo bolt. Old age is creeping up :(
 
This is a kicker for me. I have lost count of the number of times i have forgotten to tighten a bolt or connect wire or hose. Today i just solved a bad smell of gas. Having already redone the charcoal canister and spent ages troubleshooting the vacuum valves I convinced myself it must be the gasket for the filler neck. When i pulled the hatch under the back seats i spotted gas gushing out of the main fuel line. I had previously changed the fuel sock and assumed i had missed or had a bad crush washer turns out i never tightened the banjo bolt. Old age is creeping up :(
To be honest, I had expected to miss more then this. I am counting myself lucky!

That fuel bolt is a biggie. I would have pulled my hair out looking for a fuel smell. Glad it did not go too bad!
 
I nearly finished with the hard brake line run. I only bought one spool of 25 ft. I should have gotten two. The last line I need to run is from the front near the radiator to the back circulation pump.

Overall it went very smooth. The copper nickel line was very easy to work with and was largely formable by hand.

I could not get the circulation pump bolts off with out braking them. The two facing the gas tank are rushed on tight. Heat and penitrating did not budge them. If i brake them I would have to remove the tank to drill and tap them out. I am hoping the the pump is still good and does not leak. If not then my I will he spending a few hours on that.
 
I do need to go back through and weld on a few fasteners to the axles. With more brake line on order I should be done by this weekend.

I noticed both pinion seals were leaking fairly bad. Add that to the list 😒
 
Add another to forgetting to double-check I've tightened things. It's always something minor and easy to fix but just causes hell until I do.

This thread is awesome. I love seeing these trucks brought back to life. You're going about it the right way. Replace things a whole system at a time otherwise you're going to keep chasing the weakest link constantly.
 
Thanks cvenom96. As mich as I am trying to do it the right way it is still daunting. This LC is too far rusted to be great again but at least I might be able to preserve it long enough for some long term enjoyment!!
 
The brake pump valve is clogged and seized. Ill see if I can get one otherwise I'll just do a simple T. Here is a shot of some nasty!!

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I did some reading on MUD and found this valve is called a proportion valve. It stops fluid from going to the back brakes when the rear suspension is on droop to prevent lock up during heavy braking. Of course my suspension is on droop right now so so fluid will not go to the back brakes. I am going to see if I can get another valve but in the mean time it is probably working as it should. That is amazing considering the condition it is in!
 
I did some reading on MUD and found this valve is called a proportion valve. It stops fluid from going to the back brakes when the rear suspension is on droop to prevent lock up during heavy braking. Of course my suspension is on droop right now so so fluid will not go to the back brakes. I am going to see if I can get another valve but in the mean time it is probably working as it should. That is amazing considering the condition it is in!
A load sensing proportioning valve that is that rusted is definitely not working. You can find a new one on amazon. Toyota has a kit for all the boots and new pivot parts.
 
A load sensing proportioning valve that is that rusted is definitely not working. You can find a new one on amazon. Toyota has a kit for all the boots and new pivot parts.
Thanks I'll get one ordered!
 

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