- Thread starter
- #81
I tested the proportioning valve to see if it would work. It is toast. I ordered a new one from Amazon. Thanks for the tip!!
Beer, Blisters and Blood - Breathing Life Back Into 1991 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter vsatking
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- Thread starter
- #82
I put in a 3 way junction in place of the proportioning valve to get the LC drivable and test all the other fittings for leaks. The good news is there are no leaks. It stops very well now. I tried hard braking to see what difference not having the valve in place would be. During the hard braking I the rear tires could chirp pretty good. I think in the wet or snow the back end would lock up and be fairly unsafe. I ordered another bracket and boot kit. Delivery date shows end of month so I'll drive only when it is dry until I get the new valve in place.
- Thread starter
- #83
Notice a drive line clunk that is more pronounced then what I remember on my previous 80s. I know all the U-joints are good as they all felt tight when I had the drive shafts off for the motor swap.
I pulled the front drive flanges off to see how the splines were doing. Wow!! What a mess. Just about everything is wrong in there. The splines in the birf and hub were all rounded and had a fair amount of play. Which could easily cause a clunk. The retaining clip was loose on the race. Not off completely but it looked like it was hammering back and forth. The retaining race was protruding beyond the hub by a 8th of an inch. Probably the bushing on the back side is worn out.
The both outer axle bolts were loose and the lock washer notch were missing. I had extra washer and tensioned the axle correctly.
So I am going to order new birfs and hub (I already have a rebuild kit) and rebuild the axles next weekend provided I can get parts.
Oh and another thing, the hub looks like someone really hammered on it to get the cones off. The cones look mangled from someone trying to pull them off with pliers with out tapping the hub.
I am going to order new studs cone and washers as well.
Ill post up some picks. In my disbelief on what I was seeing I forgot to take em when I had it apart.
Good grief!!
I pulled the front drive flanges off to see how the splines were doing. Wow!! What a mess. Just about everything is wrong in there. The splines in the birf and hub were all rounded and had a fair amount of play. Which could easily cause a clunk. The retaining clip was loose on the race. Not off completely but it looked like it was hammering back and forth. The retaining race was protruding beyond the hub by a 8th of an inch. Probably the bushing on the back side is worn out.
The both outer axle bolts were loose and the lock washer notch were missing. I had extra washer and tensioned the axle correctly.
So I am going to order new birfs and hub (I already have a rebuild kit) and rebuild the axles next weekend provided I can get parts.
Oh and another thing, the hub looks like someone really hammered on it to get the cones off. The cones look mangled from someone trying to pull them off with pliers with out tapping the hub.
I am going to order new studs cone and washers as well.
Ill post up some picks. In my disbelief on what I was seeing I forgot to take em when I had it apart.
Good grief!!
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- Thread starter
- #84
Fixed the broken key and replace the speedometer cable.
The broken key took a bit of time to figure out how I was going to secure the riveted on dial indicator. I think it all worked out though.
Every time I dig into another area of the interior I spend a good amount of time cleaning and disinfecting the many mice s*** and pee. It is everywhere!
The broken key took a bit of time to figure out how I was going to secure the riveted on dial indicator. I think it all worked out though.
Every time I dig into another area of the interior I spend a good amount of time cleaning and disinfecting the many mice s*** and pee. It is everywhere!
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- Thread starter
- #85
Looks like rust...its not ! Yuck!
- Thread starter
- #86
Here are some pictures of the ignition disassembled. And how it was reassembled.
- Thread starter
- #87
Lock wafers laid out. Very careful to not loose the springs.
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- Thread starter
- #88
I used some small machine screws to secure the face dial.
- Thread starter
- #89
I ordered new Birfs, hubs, spindles and everything else needed for a full hub rebuild. Parts for the 91/92 a harder to find and and more costly then 93+. Kind of a bummer. At least it will be done right and i wont have to worry about something going wrong up there for awhile.
- Thread starter
- #90
Every once and awhile I get hit by a rational thought on what a bad use of money and more importantly my time this LC is I stop just to look at it. What a beautiful machine. I had two people driving newer tacoma and 4 runner give me a long hard look and a thumbs up. A newer and less problematic 4x4 would not be this special.
That will keep my spending my time on this LC for at least through the axle rebuild.
That will keep my spending my time on this LC for at least through the axle rebuild.
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- Thread starter
- #91
6:00am to 3:00pm and not done with the birf knuckle rebuild. It is crunchy in there. This hast to be one of the lightest stock 80s out there. The rust just falls away! I got some used brake covers and calipers so it should be back to good when done tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #92
Getting there...just need to install the new brake calipers.
- Thread starter
- #93
Got everything back together. Took it for a test drive and heard rubbing. I think it is from the used dust shields I bought off ebay. I think they are from a 93+. Hopefully a little bending a tapping will do the trick. Time to pull it back apart. The
is loosing patience with my time spent. Need to get this last bit right and done!
is loosing patience with my time spent. Need to get this last bit right and done!
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Got everything back together. Took it for a test drive and heard rubbing. I think it is from the used dust shields I buight off ebay. I think they are from a 93+. Hopefully a little bending a tapping will do the trick. Time to pull it back apart. The
- Thread starter
- #96
Yes. Wow. I see some good work done. Steering front hub rebuild. You look like you are taking the time to clean and rust proof or is that a new birf housing? I am not taking (and really do not have) the time to do strip and paint.
- Thread starter
- #97
I just had to bend a 2" fin from the dust shield at the caliper back away from the rotor. All is good.Got everything back together. Took it for a test drive and heard rubbing. I think it is from the used dust shields I bought off ebay. I think they are from a 93+. Hopefully a little bending a tapping will do the trick. Time to pull it back apart. The
View attachment 2777908
The heavy drive line clunk is completely gone. Very tight. Just a slight click while shifting from reverse to drive and back. Completely acceptable. Very relieved the hard clunk was in fact the worn flange and birfs. Check this off the list!
- Thread starter
- #99
Here is a video of the drive flang and how worn it was...
- Thread starter
- #100
Just put on 861/862 for my weekend up north that is coming. Forgot how well the progressive springs ride. Very happy right now!
# OME stock height 2861, 2862 on 31x10.5x15 tires. 31" tires.
# OME stock height 2861, 2862 on 31x10.5x15 tires. 31" tires.
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