BEB’s. Replace or not replace? (1 Viewer)

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May 7, 2016
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Location
Decatur GA
I have been prepared to replace my BEB’s as soon as I got my hdj. Now that I have the pan off I am having second thoughts. I have run into numerous mechanics with a lot more experience than me telling me I am crazy to do it and to leave it alone if it’s not broken. I was under the impression it could sneak up and blow the engine so it is just a really good idea. Others have said it is just not worth the risk to test those tolerances. Not a good idea if I don’t just rebuild the engine along with it which I never planned on doing. I know it is not a really difficult job. That is not my problem. I just don’t know if it is worth the risk. I know this topic has been beat to death. I have read some other posts. I have a mechanic familiar with this procedure. Should I just get my oil checked for a few months instead.?
 
Just do it and get it done... mine looked real nice after 165k kms, but how would I have known that without pulling them? It's really simple job, the hardest part is pulling the pan and you've already done that!

Rebuilding the engine... yeah, you'll be doing that if your BEBs wear out prematurely... its a 100k km replacement item for the 1HDTs... We just have to live with it. Peace of mind.
 
I have run into numerous mechanics with a lot more experience than me telling me I am crazy to do it and to leave it alone if it’s not broken.


How many of them are experienced in 1HD T diesels and know about the BEB problem? Any other engine I would agree with them, but not this one. If its an imported JDM it may have higher klms than what shows on the odometer and you dont know the service history. I would do at least once.
 
yeah I think I am just going to do it. I am just second guessing mic-ing something wrong and it was all for nothing. I just spent over 6 months importing this thing and I have cold feet.
 
How many of them are experienced in 1HD T diesels and know about the BEB problem? Any other engine I would agree with them, but not this one. If its an imported JDM it may have higher klms than what shows on the odometer and you dont know the service history. I would do at least once.

X2
 
OK, OK. I will get it done. Just sucks working with a group of gearheads calling me crazy. Just in case anyone knows, one of my friends brought up a good point: If these bearings were bad from the factory, what about the others? Were the mains built by someone else? Different material? That was the biggest argument.
 
Toyota has never publicly declared its a problem and I know Australian mechanics employed by Toyota are not allowed to discuss it.
Those that have discussed it online remain anonymous. These are common engineS in Australia and they are often worked hard doing the jobs F trucks do in the US, so the evidence is undeniable
We know during the years that the 1HD T were made, there were alterations to the pistons and possibly the angle of injection. There were also Toyota internal documents that were circulated and mentioned a problem with cavitation in the BEB on a 6 cyl diesel, but it did mot mention which engine. However , Toyota's line up of 6cyl diesels is not big, so its reasonable to assume they were talking about the 1HD T.
The Toyota bearings made by TAIHO (I think) were considered a bit soft and many workshops including Toyota used the ACL bearings which are supposed to a be bit harder
There have been numerous reports of owners on this forum having BEB problems. You could leave it until you get the ticking noise, its up to you. The bearings are not expensive and you have the oil pan off.
 
Show the nay sayers this, there are lots of pics of delaminated 1HD T bearings on google images

2003174
 
I dont know. Most likely OEM
 
Yeah, it is those photos that made my mind up a few months ago. I read plenty of those threads. More than anything I think the most valid point is the people I work with know nothing about this engine. This has reconfirmed what I believed before. I am going to go ahead and get them done while I have access. I guess there would be as many stories out there of failures after the replacement. I haven't looked for them. Of course that is my fear.
 
As a guide take out your glow plugs and turn the motor over by hand. Get a feeling for how much force is required and the smoothness. After changing the BEB turn over by hand (BEFORE PUTTING SUMP BACK ON) and makes sure its also nice and smooth (in addition to using plastigauge). If theres any tightness or increased pressure something isn't right...

Oh and finally has anyone looked at removing the rear two studs and replacing with bolts?

I did my BEBs a few weeks ago and have since decided to pull the engine and change the clutch. Now changing the rear main seal is a pain with those studs in place...
 
I guess there would be as many stories out there of failures after the replacement.

I dont think so. You only hear the stories of things going wrong, not the success stories. I believe if you are meticulous in doing it , you will not have a problem. I would only use a quality torque wrench
 
Have been building a compilation of info so if you're inclined add photos of your bearings and engine details here.

hth's
gb
 
OK, I will. I need to look up the A442F converted. What is that?
 

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