Hi, Are the scratches deep enough to feel ? Mike
Barn Rebuild: The family heirloom
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FishTacos
Full Globetard
<-----not an expert engine builder.
I would suggest that you take the block, head, and rotating assembly to a machinist. If you don't know of a good one, then ask in a separate thread and perhaps your local club board, pm the club president, etc....
You may end up just having to hone and re-ring, but I have a hunch you are right about overbore and new pistons judging by the missing pieces of oil ring.
ITM is the only available manufacturer at a reasonable price point. MAF has fancy forged pistons for over 200$ a piece. Hi performance, they say, which seems like cognitive dissonance when referring to the F engine. These are the cockroaches of the internal combustion world. ITM are new old stock at this point so they may even be hard to find. SOR has another option (maybe) at their inflated price. You may want to give a call to cruiserparts.net who are very helpful in my experience.
it will almost certainly be less expensive to get a running 2f from somewhere. I bet you have a numbers matching engine so you have real incentive to rebuild it not to mention the family heirloom status. HTH. Good luck.
Edit: wanted to give you props on the u joint write up. Nice tech. Also, the bearings in those pics look like they were not properly lubed. Someone drove it sporadically and never changed the oil perhaps? Does the top of the head look all sludgy?
I would suggest that you take the block, head, and rotating assembly to a machinist. If you don't know of a good one, then ask in a separate thread and perhaps your local club board, pm the club president, etc....
You may end up just having to hone and re-ring, but I have a hunch you are right about overbore and new pistons judging by the missing pieces of oil ring.
ITM is the only available manufacturer at a reasonable price point. MAF has fancy forged pistons for over 200$ a piece. Hi performance, they say, which seems like cognitive dissonance when referring to the F engine. These are the cockroaches of the internal combustion world. ITM are new old stock at this point so they may even be hard to find. SOR has another option (maybe) at their inflated price. You may want to give a call to cruiserparts.net who are very helpful in my experience.
it will almost certainly be less expensive to get a running 2f from somewhere. I bet you have a numbers matching engine so you have real incentive to rebuild it not to mention the family heirloom status. HTH. Good luck.
Edit: wanted to give you props on the u joint write up. Nice tech. Also, the bearings in those pics look like they were not properly lubed. Someone drove it sporadically and never changed the oil perhaps? Does the top of the head look all sludgy?
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- Thread starter
- #183
FishTacos: The head has been rebuilt already. I have it coated in WD40 sitting in a bag. New hardened seats, new (harder... for unleaded) SBC exhaust valves, new springs, new valve guide liners, etc. When I pulled it, it was not too badly sludged up, but a little. There are a lot of carbon deposits in the crankcase area.
I understand that I could find a 2F cheap. I could get a running F even cheaper. The issue is that I want to make this as reliable (first priority) and original (second priority) as I can within a real-world budget.
I want to have a properly built engine that I know has been machined and assembled correctly. Rebuilding the original engine has value to me for reliability (I understand it is ancient technology, but as reliable as it was new), originality, and sentimental reasons. Plus, just like my Grandma's old flat-head Willy's Jeepster, it is becoming less common to see the original power plants in these rigs. I really appreciate uncommon and obscure things.
Mike: The scoring is deep enough to feel. It is not too deep to machine, but too deep for a hone, I predict. The scratches are shallow enough that you notice them significantly less with a thin coat of oil on the cylinder wall.
Once I find a machine shop that I like, I will ask about options. Bearings, crank machine work, overbore and new pistons vs. re-sleeve and reuse TEQ pistons... the whole variety. I'll have time to look this summer (I'm a teacher), and I have a trans'transfer rebuild to worry about immediately. I'll probably start a thread to ask the engine experts.
I understand that I could find a 2F cheap. I could get a running F even cheaper. The issue is that I want to make this as reliable (first priority) and original (second priority) as I can within a real-world budget.
I want to have a properly built engine that I know has been machined and assembled correctly. Rebuilding the original engine has value to me for reliability (I understand it is ancient technology, but as reliable as it was new), originality, and sentimental reasons. Plus, just like my Grandma's old flat-head Willy's Jeepster, it is becoming less common to see the original power plants in these rigs. I really appreciate uncommon and obscure things.
Mike: The scoring is deep enough to feel. It is not too deep to machine, but too deep for a hone, I predict. The scratches are shallow enough that you notice them significantly less with a thin coat of oil on the cylinder wall.
Once I find a machine shop that I like, I will ask about options. Bearings, crank machine work, overbore and new pistons vs. re-sleeve and reuse TEQ pistons... the whole variety. I'll have time to look this summer (I'm a teacher), and I have a trans'transfer rebuild to worry about immediately. I'll probably start a thread to ask the engine experts.
FishTacos
Full Globetard
I also appreciate uncommon and obscure things. Particularly so when they are simply designed to be reliable and user-serviceable. I'm glad to hear that you are dedicated to keeping it original. Good thing that you have a nice top end too. I was thinking that the sludgy carbon may have led to insufficient oiling of the crank bearings which led to the wear. Could just be age I guess 
.
When I bought my '68 last December I was glad to see it had an F in it. Upon getting it cleaned up I discovered the real vintage of the power plant. It is a '74. Minor bummer but at least it isn't a SBC. I would never suggest that swap.
I think it is super cool that you are doing this with the family truck. I'm enjoying your build thread. It is keeping me motivated on my own project.
You are sure to make a bunch of headway after school lets out. Have fun. I am 100% educator by birth so hats off to your chosen profession. You guys don't get enough credit.
.When I bought my '68 last December I was glad to see it had an F in it. Upon getting it cleaned up I discovered the real vintage of the power plant. It is a '74. Minor bummer but at least it isn't a SBC. I would never suggest that swap.
I think it is super cool that you are doing this with the family truck. I'm enjoying your build thread. It is keeping me motivated on my own project.
You are sure to make a bunch of headway after school lets out. Have fun. I am 100% educator by birth so hats off to your chosen profession. You guys don't get enough credit.
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- Thread starter
- #185
I cleaned some transfer case pieces lately. I have more to clean, but I have a couple pics to tease you all with for now.
- Thread starter
- #186
I rebuilt the transfer case today. I could give a big writeup, but I used a combination of the FSM and Coolerman's site for step-by-step guidance, so I will just link to coolerman's site and those of you that are interested can look up directions.
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/34A.htm
I painted all the covers and cases, I replaced all the bearings and seals, and I generally had to do everything twice to make sure all the pieces were installed correctly because I am mostly just a dumb hick.
By the way, I am aware that painting the aluminum parts is not "factory". It's my party and I can paint what I want to!
http://www.globalsoftware-inc.com/coolerman/fj40/34A.htm
I painted all the covers and cases, I replaced all the bearings and seals, and I generally had to do everything twice to make sure all the pieces were installed correctly because I am mostly just a dumb hick.
By the way, I am aware that painting the aluminum parts is not "factory". It's my party and I can paint what I want to!
Nice thread! Keep up the good work.
- Thread starter
- #188
Got the engine parts back from the machine shop. They were able to leave everything at factory spec... That means I get to reuse the original pistons.
Further, they had a ring set sitting on the shelf for my standard pistons!
Block prep, new cam bearings installed, new freeze plugs installed, check and polish cam and crank, clean and check rods. Guy complimented how nice and straight everything was. Time to go find standard size bearings and a full gasket kit.
Further, they had a ring set sitting on the shelf for my standard pistons!
Block prep, new cam bearings installed, new freeze plugs installed, check and polish cam and crank, clean and check rods. Guy complimented how nice and straight everything was. Time to go find standard size bearings and a full gasket kit.
Cdaniel
Undocumented Mechanic-I Am Not CDAN
Great news on the pistons! 
- Thread starter
- #190
I'm trying to piece together all the gaskets I need for the engine build. So far, It looks like I need to buy a "valve regrind gasket set" in order to get a head gasket (should still be available from Toyota). I need to piece together the rest of the gaskets. SOR has an "engine overhaul" gasket kit available. Is this going to be cost-effective and high quality? if anyone out there has direct experience, I would appreciate a response.
I found bearings for the mains and rods from SOR (not ordered yet). Does anyone know of a different source? I hear the rod bearings might be interchangeable from all 1F and 2F motors. I know that the main bearings are early style F135 motors only.
I found bearings for the mains and rods from SOR (not ordered yet). Does anyone know of a different source? I hear the rod bearings might be interchangeable from all 1F and 2F motors. I know that the main bearings are early style F135 motors only.
I have enjoyed following this build thread! I have a similar situation. I inherited a 1971 fj40 in November of 2010. It had been sitting for about 15 years before I got it. I trailered it from Little Rock, AR to Sachse, TX. Since that time I've slowly been disassembling it and trying to figure out what direction I want to go with it. It was complete when I got it and I'm leaning towards keeping it that way. I'm curious what machine shop you used to inspect your engine? Here's a picture of when I picked it up. I need to start my own build thread.
Keep up the great work.
Mike
Keep up the great work.Mike
- Thread starter
- #192
I have enjoyed following this build thread! I have a similar situation. I inherited a 1971 fj40 in November of 2010. It had been sitting for about 15 years before I got it. I trailered it from Little Rock, AR to Sachse, TX. Since that time I've slowly been disassembling it and trying to figure out what direction I want to go with it. It was complete when I got it and I'm leaning towards keeping it that way. I'm curious what machine shop you used to inspect your engine? Here's a picture of when I picked it up. I need to start my own build thread.
Mike
My project is just north of Wylie. You are welcome to come inspect the various messes I have made sometime.
I took the block to Blaine's Motor Supply. They are just south of Fair Park in Dallas.
Updates on the engine: I am leaning towards ordering the overhaul gasket kit and all crank bearings from SOR. Does anyone out there have experience with the gasket kit? Have I overlooked a less expensive source of quality parts? It looks to be more expensive to piece together the gaskets individually.
Also, is there a reason I can't reuse the crankshaft main bearing shims? If SOR only sells used shims, I don't see why my used shims are inappropriate. Does anyone have experience with this?
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- #193
Here's my plan, since MUD hasn't answered my question about shimming the mains: order bearings for STD spec and plasti-gauge to see what the clearances are. Hopefully, I get lucky.
On other news, I tore down the transmission and painted the block today. Block looks great! Transmission guts are all good except for the little reverse gear. It looks like my uncle tried to jam it in reverse while rolling forward or not clutching or something. One tooth is a little worse for wear. Fortunately, I drive like a grandpa and this gear is for reverse. The damage is only going to effect engaging reverse, not driving in reverse. I'm comfortable reinstalling this gear after I de-burr the damaged tooth.
On other news, I tore down the transmission and painted the block today. Block looks great! Transmission guts are all good except for the little reverse gear. It looks like my uncle tried to jam it in reverse while rolling forward or not clutching or something. One tooth is a little worse for wear. Fortunately, I drive like a grandpa and this gear is for reverse. The damage is only going to effect engaging reverse, not driving in reverse. I'm comfortable reinstalling this gear after I de-burr the damaged tooth.
Chamba
Too short. Too long. Just right: the 43
I'd be more concerned about that gear's effect on its mate. Can you source a good used one from specter?
- Thread starter
- #195
Yes... for $106.25 plus shipping.
The mates for the damaged gear are both in good shape. The only damage on any part in the transmission is shown in the picture. That part of the gear tooth does not contact any other gear teeth except during the transition time that the reverse shift fork slides the reverse gear into mesh with the reverse idler gear (the damaged one).
Once the burr is removed, this gear will be serviceable.
- Thread starter
- #196
Today, I worked on cleaning transmission parts and engine parts for the various rebuilds I will be doing this summer.
The pistons were badly clogged with carbon. No wonder the oil rings were failing. Oil couldn't get to them.
One before and one after. Grooves were cleaned with a fragment from an old ring. An appropriately sized drill bit was loaded into a t-handle to use like a reamer and open the oil passages in the 3rd groove. All the rest of the carbon was removed with a light application of a small brass wire brush. They will go into the part washer before reassembly. This is time consuming, but that makes for a good hobby.
The pistons were badly clogged with carbon. No wonder the oil rings were failing. Oil couldn't get to them.
One before and one after. Grooves were cleaned with a fragment from an old ring. An appropriately sized drill bit was loaded into a t-handle to use like a reamer and open the oil passages in the 3rd groove. All the rest of the carbon was removed with a light application of a small brass wire brush. They will go into the part washer before reassembly. This is time consuming, but that makes for a good hobby.
FishTacos
Full Globetard
Rockauto.com has gasket sets and bearings
72$ Fel pro gasket set
23$ clevite cam bearing set
Main bearing set looks like only .25 mm US for 55$
- Thread starter
- #198
Thanks, FishTacos. I already ordered from SOR. They have a complete gasket set with head gasket and standard sized bearings for reasonable prices. Rock auto does not have the standard size bearings. The machine shop installed new cam bearings already.
Also, here is my de-blurred reverse idler gear:
Also, here is my de-blurred reverse idler gear:
Chamba
Too short. Too long. Just right: the 43
That looks good. So long as it is not needed under load it should be perfect. $110 for a replacement is lunacy.
The carbon on those pistons is amazing! I rebuilt a 2f head once where we struggled to get the valves out for all the carbon on the stems. That engine ran like a top after the rebuild though.
The carbon on those pistons is amazing! I rebuilt a 2f head once where we struggled to get the valves out for all the carbon on the stems. That engine ran like a top after the rebuild though.
- Thread starter
- #200
I have had quite a few parts that were hard to remove due to carbon. This was never going to be the "easy" project, though.
