Barn Rebuild: The family heirloom

[Heirloom]

The splines are all in good shape. I think the trans and transfer will get cleaned and resealed. I don't see a need to rebuild at this point.

 

[monke south]

I just read through your build. Looks like its coming along. Keep up the good work!

Chad Wells

 

[Chamba]

The splines are all in good shape. I think the trans and transfer will get cleaned and resealed. I don't see a need to rebuild at this point.

The three speed in your rig is the cockroach of the transmission world. They will out last nuclear holocaust.

Our 72 fj40, which my patents got brand new, has over 300,000 on it and all we've ever done to the Tranny and transfer is replace seals.

 

[huminajumina]

Looking good!!!! I love all the progress!!! for some reason, i really hate brake fluid leaks, especially on fresh paint, but I almost look over my shoulder to see if anyone is watching when I redo a few brake lines with the flare tool.... I have no idea why this of all things makes me happy and impressed by my own work, but it does, and to see all this brake line work you are doing... heres to you!!! The Driveline is looking good too!!! keep up the good work!!!

 

[Heirloom]

Thanks for the kind words, everyone. This thread helps keep me motivated. My plan is not very strict, but the thread helps me look forward to the next steps.

I think I am going to donate a day to researching which seals to replace in the trans. Should I separate the transfer and seal between the trans and transfer? I hear that is a problem sometimes. Is that for 3- or 4- speeds transmissions that experience the problem of fluid being pumped from one to the other when the seal fails?

 

[Chamba]

Thanks for the kind words, everyone. This thread helps keep me motivated. My plan is not very strict, but the thread helps me look forward to the next steps.

I think I am going to donate a day to researching which seals to replace in the trans. Should I separate the transfer and seal between the trans and transfer? I hear that is a problem sometimes. Is that for 3- or 4- speeds transmissions that experience the problem of fluid being pumped from one to the other when the seal fails?

Now's the time. Use Toyota seals. The other option is to run a house from the fill plug of the Tranny to the fill plug of the transfer case to equalise oil levels of that seal goes out.

 

[SteveH]

If you vent the transfer case with a piece of hose (replacing the poppet vent that Toyota uses), you will not have fluid migration. But, split the two and replace the seal first.

 

[Heirloom]

Ok. I may need help compiling the list of seals and gaskets I need for this.

Can any gaskets be appropriately replaced with RTV?

 

[fj user]

I just did the seals/gaskets on my transmission and am in the middle of the t-case. I got seals & gaskets from Georg (also picked up nose cone and t-case saver and speedi sleeve for t-case output). It's probably overkill, but I use the gaskets and RTV. Georg recommended Loctite forumula 518 instead of RTV but I had RTV on hand.

 

[Vae Victus]

Ok. I may need help compiling the list of seals and gaskets I need for this.

Can any gaskets be appropriately replaced with RTV?

Try one of these:

TRANSFER CASE(make sure I got the right year on each one):

Gasket kit only:
- http://www.tpi4x4.com/online-store?...age=flypage.tpl&product_id=905&category_id=46 ($21)
- http://www.sor.com/cat068.sor ($33)
- http://www.fjparts.com/transfer-case-36100k-overhaul-gasket-kit-c-252_176.html ($25)

Gaskets, seals, bearings:
- http://www.tpi4x4.com/online-store?...890&category_id=46&flypage=flypage.tpl ($169)
- http://www.sor.com/cat070.sor ($270)
- http://www.cruiserparts.com/index.p...id=87&vmcchk=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=2 ($179)
- http://www.coolcruisers.com/tranrebkit1.html ($194)
- http://www.jtoutfitters.com/transfe...p-3087.html?osCsid=r7rms2ssqv4irbhkmbdjbs8mg4 ($185)
- http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/TransferCaseBearingRebuildKit.htm ($235)

TRANSMISSION:

Overhaul kit:
- http://www.tpi4x4.com/online-store?...age=flypage.tpl&product_id=897&category_id=46 ($175)
- http://www.sor.com/cat058.sor ($199)
- http://www.cruiserparts.com/index.p...id=87&vmcchk=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=2 ($150)
- http://www.coolcruisers.com/tran3speedre.html ($189)
- http://www.jtoutfitters.com/speed-t...p-3066.html?osCsid=r7rms2ssqv4irbhkmbdjbs8mg4 ($199)
- http://www.man-a-fre.com/parts_accessories/transmissiongearboxbearingrebuiltkit.htm ($225)

You get the idea...

 

[Heirloom]

Today's progress: soft brake lines and shocks arrived. All of the factory original shock hardware was cleaned with the wire wheel, shot with rust converting primer and then with gloss black rattle can paint. I splurged and used new cotter pins.

 

[Chamba]

Is the shock meant to mount that way? Normally they mount with the boot up. Nice cotter pin too

 

[Heirloom]

Are they all upside down?

 

[cruiserjunkie]

Some shocks will work upside down and some won't. I'd flip them if there's room to

 

[Slowerthanu]

Mono-tube should be run inverted while I believe oil filled, non gas charged shocks should be run right side (piston) up.

 

[Heirloom]

Mono-tube should be run inverted while I believe oil filled, non gas charged shocks should be run right side (piston) up.

Well... According to marketing materials, they are twin tube nitrogen charged shocks that are filled with oil.

You say piston up. Do you mean piston above the shaft, like mine are already mounted?

-or-

Are you calling the shaft "piston" and advising that the tube (cylinder) should be oriented at the bottom?

Originals were shrouded with sheet metal tubes (instead of rubber boots) and mounted opposite orientation than mine are currently, come to think of it. I'll flip the shocks next time I get out to the barn.

 

[Heirloom]

So I flipped the shocks to the previously advised orientation.



Because I know you are totally interested, I got some Pro comp ES3000 all around. Hope they suffice.

 

[Heirloom]

Of (I assume) greater interest, I started on drivetrain stuff today. First: disassemble a driveshaft for cleaning and new u joints. I have read some stuff on this site where people claim you need a driveshaft shop to replace u joints. Maybe I'll be proven wrong later, but here is the disassembly process I have used for a decade or so. We'll call it the BFH method:

1. Take a u joint out before photo-documentation. This reduces the likelihood that I will make myself look foolish in my thread.



2. Proceed with the second joint. Start by removing the retaining clips on the free yoke. I use a drift and a tiny ball peen to break the clips free. If nothing breaks, use needle nose pliers to compress the retaining clip. If the 50 year old clip breaks when you tap it free, pick it out creatively.

 

[Heirloom]

3. After removing clips, find an impact socket that fits inside the holes in the yoke. For me: 19mm socket was perfect. It is called "impact" because it won't shatter when you begin beating on it with your big hammer.



Now hit it with your hammer. We aren't trying to salvage a 50 year old u-joint today. Drive the opposite cup out of the yoke by using your socket as a drift. Use a vice or big socket to allow the cup to be driven out as far as possible. Pics for clarification.

Top view



Using vise jaws to allow cup to be driven out.



Once it hangs out far enough, clamp that cup in your vise jaws and wiggle the rest of the drive shaft free (much easier for short FJ40 driveshaft than bobtail truck).

 

[Heirloom]

At this point you are looking at this.



While you think you can wiggle the other cup through from the inside, you are wrong. I try it too. You have to drive the other cup out just like the first. Go ahead and start banging on it with a hammer.



Similar process. Drive that cup as far out as possible and grab it when you can to pry it out. The end result looks like the third pic and can be wiggled free of the yoke.