Axle - Gears - Lockers GX470 Upgrade Thread (4 Viewers)

[Pearlgx470]

a few months back, I search for 8.2 axle complete it was running $1800.00 in my area. For that price the 9.5 seem to be a better option for me, the power and weight of the Gx 9.5 will be a better fit. My 4runner Im always worry about my 8' when I wheeling on the hard stuff. I guess I just have to be gentle on the pedal lol

 

[cesslinger]

Yes. With the 9.5, you need to regear the front also because the lowest gear for the 9.5 is 4.10 (Us spec).

I got 3.7 on a new 9.5 third member that is going in a diamond once the housing is fabbed. Should be about a week out at this point. Center diff will compensate for the slight variance while i'm not locked. Won't be that much of a difference when I'm locked on the dirt. I'll do both F&R 4.88 next year when my play money replenishes

 

[VSPro9]

bookmarking this. towed a fellow 470 out of the ORV park this weekend with a blown rear, now im thinking i need to evaluate mine.

 

[Rednexus]

Any thoughts on the relative strength of a rebuilt 8" with a solid pinion spacer, such as from ECGS, vs. an 8.2"? I want to do a 4.30 or 4.56 regear and lockers, which is around $4,200 from ECgS for the 8". Going to an 8.2" would make it more like $6K. I don't plan to wheel my GX super hard (really ever), but don't want to grenade a diff in the middle of nowhere either.

 

[ArBrnSnpr]

I've been running an 8" rear with solid spacer and an elocker and 35"s for about 2 years. I keep it in mind with how I drive and it's holding up so far. An 8.2 is stronger, but not by much. The internet is full of lore about exploding 8"s diffs, but the age of the 8" and the 8.2" are huge factors. An 8" with loose carrier preload is going to explode where a tight, low-mileage 8.2" won't.

Lot's of the GX's on the road are getting long in the tooth and guys buying them at 150k plus miles and throwing a lift and 33"s or 35"s on it is a recipe for a blown diff.

I installed an elocker and set up my own gears and I was down the road for under $1k with new seals, gears, elocker, new studs and synthetic fluid.

 

[Rednexus]

Thanks, that's good to hear (and a bargain for the DIY install). I'm missing some of the tools required to really set up gears correctly, and my GX is my daily, so I'll probably go the ECGS route with dual Harrops and a warrany (although I'd love to DIY it under other circumstances). I'm just going to wait until my 32's wear out and I upgrade to 33's, after which I'll really want the regear for camper towing.

 

[jiggletits]

I just pulled my third and had an eaton e-locker installed along with a new bearing kit. No gear change, no plans to run over 32" tires. Doing the front next.

I’m interested in tapping the 4LOW power source for enabling the locker relays to make them a little more dummy proof.

 

[Edwinh3rd]

I don't know about how much stronger the 8.2 is. However, I did break my ring and pinion on my 8.0 on my second trail run after installing 35's. I have since installed the 8.2 w/E-locker, wheeled several times and much harder without a single rear end issue. Hopefully the 8.2 will hold up. I do plan an going 4.56's soon. I just want to get my rear bumper and spare tire mount first.

 

[NJGX]

Anyone have experience with or look into swapping 2010+ MT FJ Cruiser axle/clamshell in? Seems like a great budget option if you can source the parts. Factory full-time 4wd like the GX (no ADD to worry about up front) and slightly better 3.91 gear ratio for larger tires. Most had a factory e-locker out back and 2010+ would be the 8.2 3rd member/housing.

 

[Dharma Dude]

Anyone have experience with or look into swapping 2010+ MT FJ Cruiser axle/clamshell in? Seems like a great budget option if you can source the parts. Factory full-time 4wd like the GX (no ADD to worry about up front) and slightly better 3.91 gear ratio for larger tires. Most had a factory e-locker out back and 2010+ would be the 8.2 3rd member/housing.

Do you mean just the rear diff? I thought that on the full-time AWD systems, the front and rear diff ratios need to be identical.

 

[NJGX]

Do you mean just the rear diff? I thought that on the full-time AWD systems, the front and rear diff ratios need to be identical.

No, I mean rear 8.2 and front clam shell swap with the manual FJC. Front and rear should match with our AWD system. Even though 3.73 (GX470 ratio) and 3.91 (MT FJ ratio) are close, it would likely cause some serious issues at the center diff.

 

[jiggletits]

It would definitely cause problems in more places than the center diff.

 

[Jstawgn]

This is pretty much the interchange for 120-150 platform.

 

[estoddart]

I have a rear 8.2 and a front from a GX460 about ready to swap in to my 470. They have the 3.91 ratio and I'm adding an air locker to the rear.

 

[jiggletits]

I have a rear 8.2 and a front from a GX460 about ready to swap in to my 470. They have the 3.91 ratio and I'm adding an air locker to the rear.

Do yourself a favor and return the air locker. Get the e-locker and save headache down the road when the air locker seals fail.

 

[NJGX]

I have a rear 8.2 and a front from a GX460 about ready to swap in to my 470. They have the 3.91 ratio and I'm adding an air locker to the rear.

What size tires are you running? Curious to see if you notice any kind of difference vs stock once you install. Also, do you have a Sport package with KDSS, or are you going with no rear sway bar?

 

[HomersCanyonero]

Do yourself a favor and return the air locker. Get the e-locker and save headache down the road when the air locker seals fail.

Is the Eaton e-locker work differently than the Harrop? Ahhh...never mind. Seems like Eaton is Harrop.

There are reports that the Harrop e-locker was designed to disengage if you roll backwards (change directions). That’s something to think about when choosing a locker.

And I was in the 200-section where this was discussed. It only impacts you if you are in terrain that might force you to roll backwards or you need to reverse to align your line. Anyone running a Harrop rear e-locker? - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/anyone-running-a-harrop-rear-e-locker.1036418/post-11432149

 

[jiggletits]

I have seen that video, and it makes sense how that could be noticeable on a very slow obstacle, especially in a manual transmission. However, it's hasn't been noticeable on my Tundra. I have yet to really put the GX lockers to the test, but will pay attention. On the surface I would much rather deal with that than deal with potentially removing the third member every-so-often to replace seals like in an ARB.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

I have seen that video, and it makes sense how that could be noticeable on a very slow obstacle, especially in a manual transmission. However, it's hasn't been noticeable on my Tundra. I have yet to really put the GX lockers to the test, but will pay attention. On the surface I would much rather deal with that than deal with potentially removing the third member every-so-often to replace seals like in an ARB.

I also followed the link to zuk’s site and he’s all for Hadoop e-lockers. He’s got a table of all the diffs he’s rebuilt/upgraded/repaired.

@jiggletits did you consider a manual Aussie locker?

 

[jiggletits]

I did not, I wanted the closest thing to an OEM option I could get that locks F&R, complete with the push-button rotato-potato land cruiser locker switch, which the GX has a spot for, and in-dash indicator lights (simple LEDs)