We arrived in Roxby to find a very quiet, ultra clean mining town. However these mining towns no matter how hard they try all have the same weird feel about them. Maybe im a little weird but i think its a good kind of weird.
After doing a lap of the town we pulled into what we thought looked like the bigger of the two caravan parks on the map to find it 100% leveled... Absolutely nothing there but an empty lot, a huge empty lot with some old concrete slabs here and there where i guess cabins etc. once stood.
Ok, so back to the first caravan park. We'd skipped it for a reason but now we had no there choice. It was like a mini city crammed to the maximum with tenants. 99.8% workers from the local mine. After recovering from the mini heart attach from paying the charge for an un-powered tent site (lets just say, about DOUBLE what we'd consider the standard across Australia) we drove through the park to the back bottom corner where there was a tiny area designated for un-powered tents. Lucky we didnt want power as they were all gravel sites. So we pitched the tent then kicked back in the shade and had a couple of whiskeys.
There was another small tent, a swag and a little trailer setup in the small area. A vehicle was also parked beside them but there was noone around. After a few whiskeys it dawned on me that the vehicle must belong to one of the full time tenants as indicated by the tell tail sign of the grass being quite tall under it, and mowed all around. Just before dark, the fellow campers arrived in their vehicle and cautiously i think we sussed each other out. They were two younger blokes, and one older guy.
Before dark decided to quickly have a look around the old Cruiser and under the bonnet found the water pump had started weeping between the block and gasket. It had done this once before 6months ago but stopped completely just as quickly as it started. I purchased all the required parts and gaskets but of course, left them all at home! I was shattered. After removing the fan belt i checked the shaft for play and sure enough there was now a reasonable amount of play in the water pump shaft so, i started stressing. There was nothing we could do that night so i went to bed and tried to sleep.
It was a freezing cold night, we woke once frozen to the bone and decided to get up and change into our thermals then went back to sleep. In the morning the two younger blokes were slowly rising and a lot more talkative then the night before.
Turns out they were geologists from the University of Canberra out studying lizards for 3 weeks. They wanted to know more information about our old LandCruiser, they were absolutely in love with it! Instantly they'd become good blokes in my book. I asked what happened to the older dude? He'd caught an overnight bus back home that night, but they still had another week in the outback. At 9am i started calling around in search of a new waterpump, eventually one was found back in Port Augusta so we started packing up then turned around and started backtracking.
By lunchtime we were back in Port Augusta and had the replacement water pump and associated parts. It was now bloody hot once again, 95deg f in the shade and the only shade where id be working out the back of the local caravan park was that of the bonnet!
Having to wait for the engine to cool enough to safely drain the coolant seemed to take forever and the afternoon only seemed to get hotter and hotter.
It was too hot to be out working in the still hot engine bay but i had no other option. The job was finished right on nightfall with the cleanup done under torchlight. The waterpump, thermostat, all hoses and radiator cap were all replaced. I really had no idea, but i was hoping somehow perhaps the engine temperature 'variations' we'd been experiencing from day one on this trip were somehow related to the water pump... only time would tell i guessed.
The next morning we decided we would take a different route out towards Marree and the start of the famous Birdsville Track. There really was only two routes, and given we'd drivin 2/3rds of the way there the day before, before having to backtrack we decided to go the other way now. I also believed there would be more chance of running into fellow travelers this way and there are a couple of additional towns albeit tiny just in case my repairs were bad. From Port Augusta to Marree it is 379km / 235miles. It would be a long day behind the wheel... Upon leaving Port Augusta we called back into the Auto shop to check the status of our old auxiliary battery but the Rep had not yet been in to test it.
Before long the temperature started to rise, and with it so did the engine temp on the old Cruiser... bugger i thought!
Slowly we inched closer to Marree and our home for the night. Despite my thoughts the roads were very quiet and we saw very little traffic. However out here, most towns are like ghost towns until just before nightfall and just after the sun has risen.
If you are late to get away as we were once again then, just about all potential fellow travelers are long gone. We'd also started to develop a trend in the old LandCruiser of stopping quite early in the day simply because it was getting far to hot to drive. To hot for the Cruiser and to hot for us, in the cruiser! We arrived in Marree to find it very much like a ghost town. The only thing on our minds was getting the hell out of the vehicle and into some shade. We didnt stop until we were under a shady tree at the caravan park. It was stinking hot and despite there being a few camps setup and caravans present, noone was around.
Within a couple of hours the traffic started rolling in. Oh how id forgotten the joys of watching older couples argue till they are blue in the face as they try and reverse their caravan or, in this case camper trailer into position! Gold, pure gold.
Shortly after the busses started rolling in! When there is water in Lake Eyre, bus loads of tourists head into Marree so they can take a scenic flight over the lake.
Quick copy from Wikipedia:
Lake Eyre is the lowest point in
Australia, at approximately 15 m (49 ft) (
AHD) below sea level, and, on the rare occasions that it fills, it is the largest
lake in Australia and
18th largest in the world.
The 2009 Lake Eyre flood peaked at 1.5 m (5 ft) deep in late May which is a quarter of its maximum recorded depth of 6 m (20 ft). 9 km3 (2 cu mi) of water crossed the
Queensland–
South Australian border with most of it coming from massive floods in the
Georgina River. However the greater proportion soaked into the desert or evaporated en route to the lake leaving less than 4 km3 (0.24 cu mi) in the lake which covered an area of 800 km2 (309 sq mi) or 12% of the lake. As the flood did not start filling the lake's deepest point (Belt Bay) until late March little
bird life appeared preferring instead to nest in the upper reaches of the Lake Eyre Basin, north of
Birdsville, where large lakes appeared in January as a result of monsoonal
rain.
In 2010, The high rainfall in summer sent flood water into the Diamantina, Georgina and Cooper Creek catchments of the Lake Eyre basin, with the Cooper Creek reaching the lake for the first time since 1990. The higher rainfall has prompted many different birds to migrate back to the area for breeding.
In 2011, Heavy rain in early March filled the southern end of the lake, with the north of the usually-dry salt pan about 75 per cent covered with water continuing to inflow from local creeks.
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Over dinner a few more drinks were had and we chatted away with our neighbors in the caravan park. Sadly, there was only one other 'party' planning to head North up the Birdsville track. It just boggles my mind that one would come so close, only to stop there. Even a run upto the Cooper Ferry and back would only take a few hours! Try as i might, i couldnt convince any of them. Hell, i was very very very close to doing a weekend trip late last year just to ride the ferry before it would close. Never mind, they thought we were crazy not taking a scenic flight over the lake, but um with / for that sort of money i could stay in the outback for another MONTH!
The next morning, our real adventure would start! We were finally about to travel up the famous Birdsville Track, and the ferry was still in operation! A true dream come true.
tbc.
Travis.