You don't need a factory coil necessarily. A coil is a coil, and while OE coils are likely to last longer, any aftermarket coil should get you up and running. You won't burn anything up by chosing the wrong coil -- aside from the coil itself, possibly. Some coils have an internal resistor, while some need an external resistor. It usually says on the can whether it needs an external resistor or not. If you don't use an external resistor with a coil that requires one, you will overheat the coil in short order, ruining it - ask me how I know! Long story short, I ordered a new coil from my local parts store, but they were unable to source the external ballast resistor. I found a resistor at a hot rod/speed shop type place nearby, I think it was about $20. The combo works great.
If I was in your shoes, this is what I'd do:
- Install that rebuilt carb with proper gaskets and spacer
- Find a non-damaged OE big cap distributor, or replace the damaged parts on yours. Ensure that the distributor is *fully* seated in the oil pump drive slot
- Ditch all the electronic ignition stuff in favor of points and condenser. That way you don't need to worry about having to cobble in a non-stock igniter, etc.
- Clean spark plugs and make sure gap is more or less correct
- Replace plug wires if they look at all old/boots cracked etc.
- Double-check that the plug wires goes to the correct cylinders (firing order correct?)
- Find #1 TCD and make sure the rotor is pointing at #1 plug wire. Make sure you're on the compression stroke. Pull the valve cover if you need to, to check that the #1 intake/exhaust rocker arms are loose (valves closed)
- Set static timing so you know you're in the ballpark
- Check valve lash, adjust as necessary. You'll have to adjust again when the engine is at operating temperature, but checking it cold will get you close enough that it will run
I might be forgetting one or two little things, but I feel that if you baseline all of these items, it should fire. If you think that it might not be getting fuel, try dumping some down the carb while cranking. Once you have it idling, you can do other things like measure vacuum, set timing, and of course readjust valves once the engine is hot. Once you know the engine is running well, THEN you can play with electronic ignition if that suits you. For now, I feel that you could benefit from eliminating as many variables as possible, and the best way to do that is to get it back as close to the original factory setup as possible, with everything adjusted to factory spec.
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