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- #41
Got my OPOR Sliders. Some pics here. I did not powdercoat. Went with the rattle can option.
Builds Arizona Jeff - Build Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Arizona Jeff
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- #42
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- #43
Got a P0401 code about a month ago. Grrrrrr.... Got by with a cheap solution - Yipeee! I noticed that when I fill up with gas I get a hissing sound when removing the cap. After some Mud research I discovered my charcoal canister was shot. I found this one on Amazon for $50. Not an exact match and you will see in the pictures I needed to use longer bolts to make the stock holder work. After driving with the new canister for just a day, the light went off. Hope it lasts!
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- #44
Also - The GM part has a "splash cap" on the fresh air inlet. The Toyota canister has a hose that comes out of the bottom for this purpose. I cut a piece of the hose off of the bottom of the Toyota canister, plugged it, and stuck it back on the factory fresh air hose. I'll finish the assembly whenever I get some hose, but I don't think it really matters either way.
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- #45
Happy Father's Day to Me! I bought a new stereo, along with 4 cameras (two of each of these). The plan is to have a front & rear, maybe one underneath and one on the future roof rack.
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- #46
Here's a shot of it installed. The install actually went really smooth. I bought a wiring harness from Amazon for about $6 and that helped a ton. The factory stereo brackets bolt right on to the Kenwood. Some have complained on here that the Kenwoods stick out too far but that is not my experience with this one. I didn't use or need the Kenwood trim piece. Hoping to work on cameras and front speakers this weekend. The previous owner left me some Pioneers.
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- #47
One thing to note is that the wiring harness I used is for 4 speakers, not six. Easy enough to pull in the other two fronts if you need them. As for me, it will work just fine.
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- #48
Here's a shot of the microphone that came with the Kenwood. The handsfree calling works great. With the a/c blowing on high I can make a call and the person on the call doesn't pick up any wind noise.
92LXAZ
SILVER Star
Very cool I'm looking at a Kenwood as well. Sent ya a PM.
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- #50
Installed new front door speakers. Went in great! I didn't bother to try to keep the factory grills and I like the look of the black Pioneers.
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- #51
OPERATION CAMERA SWITCH: Here are some pics of the parts I used. The goal was to create a switch so I could select through multiple cameras whenever I want (not waiting to put the cruiser in reverse). This project took me a couple of afternoons - probably about 12 hours with plenty of breaks for cold ones along the way. Special thanks goes out to member 98 SNAKE EATER for paving the way for this mod. I tweaked mine a bit from his and hope to see other's versions in the future.
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- #52
So here's how this is wired - The rotary switch has six positions on it, with twelve soldering tabs (positive and negative). As it turns out, you do not need to worry about the negative tabs as this entire set up will get grounded through the video input on the stereo. There are also two inner solder tabs. The inner solder tabs need to be tied to video input for the reverse camera on the stereo. I tied the inner tab wire to the red plug in the picture, and that way I always know how to hook it up. (The lone black wire is on the inner solder tab, but I don't think it's needed. I figured it all out after I soldered it in so just left it) I tied all of the grounds within the video plug in box together, and that way when the unit is plugged into the stereo it uses the stereo ground.
If one wanted to go crazy, I think you could modify the rotary switch a bit and actually control up to 12 cameras.
Due to where I wanted to mount this, I has to modify the rotary switch mount a bit, and the pics of that are below.
If one wanted to go crazy, I think you could modify the rotary switch a bit and actually control up to 12 cameras.
Due to where I wanted to mount this, I has to modify the rotary switch mount a bit, and the pics of that are below.
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- #53
Here's a pic of the toggle switch and the look of the final product. I pulled power from the "gauge" fuse in the fusebox near the steering wheel. With the fuse jumper (shown in above pics), I used a 5 amp fuse to power all of this - cameras and all. Each camera only uses about .5 amps, very minimal draw. The other power requirement is to trick the stereo into thinking the cruiser is in reverse. So......on one side of the switch is the power and on the other side of the switch it's the reverse wire from the stereo and the power for all cameras you are hooking up. When the switch is flipped to "on", the cameras turn on and the stereo screen pulls them up. I've seen in other posts where some like to leave power to the cameras all of the time so there isn't a delay on the signal. From my experience and playing around with this a bit, I noticed no difference at all. I figure why burn them out early for no reason.
This took a bit of trimming on both the switch blank (which I drilled out and had to remove a tab on to get it to fit) and the underside of the center console. All worth it for the nice clean final product.
This took a bit of trimming on both the switch blank (which I drilled out and had to remove a tab on to get it to fit) and the underside of the center console. All worth it for the nice clean final product.
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- #54
Here's a couple of shots of the front cameras. The undercar one is really cool. Had a "duh" moment, and realized that the cameras are designed to look back and not forward, so my front facing camera produces a reverse image. I'll replace it at some point with a correct one.
Also - both camera types that I bought have parking indicator lines on them. I'll be smarter when I replace them to make sure I don't buy cameras with that.
Also - both camera types that I bought have parking indicator lines on them. I'll be smarter when I replace them to make sure I don't buy cameras with that.
murf
Lifer
very nice! 
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- #56
Making progress....slowly but surely. Picked up 1x3 tube steel (.120 wall thickness) for load bars. Using Smittybuilt brackets from Amazon. I'm trying to keep the profile of this very low and will eventually put on a shallow rack.
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- #57
Here's pics of the load bars installed. Bought a 40" Tuff LED Light Bar from Amazon. Again - trying to keep this at a low profile.
The factory brackets almost bolted up perfectly to the 1x3 load bar as they already had a notch in them. They just took a little grinding for a tight fit. Sorry - fuzzy picture.
The 3 rear bars are level. I lowered the front bar to keep a lower profile at the front. I think this will work nicely and the plan is to eventually build a rack that will accomodate the lower front load bar location. Note how the level just clears the light. The picture doesn't show how tight these bars are to the roof. The closest one is less than a 1/2" clearance from the roof. I may eventually raise them but the load bars are so stout that I may not need to. Got end caps on the way to clean it up a bit.
Tight clearance to the roof.
The factory brackets almost bolted up perfectly to the 1x3 load bar as they already had a notch in them. They just took a little grinding for a tight fit. Sorry - fuzzy picture.
The 3 rear bars are level. I lowered the front bar to keep a lower profile at the front. I think this will work nicely and the plan is to eventually build a rack that will accomodate the lower front load bar location. Note how the level just clears the light. The picture doesn't show how tight these bars are to the roof. The closest one is less than a 1/2" clearance from the roof. I may eventually raise them but the load bars are so stout that I may not need to. Got end caps on the way to clean it up a bit.
Tight clearance to the roof.
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- #58
I was a little worried about drilling throught the roof, and then I thought about all of you poor suckers with the factory roof racks with all those holes that you get to deal with. I only have to worry about this one! I eventually had to drill a 1/2" hole and use a larger grommet to get this to work, but this pic gives you the idea.
I bought the switch off Amazon and used a relay for the installation. First time for me on hooking up a relay. Painless but time consuming. When the headlights are turned on the switch is illuminated. When in the "on" position, the upper part of the switch is illuminated.
I mounted the relay to the battery box. 20 amp fuse to the battery. The switch is also wired to the "tail light" fuse under the dash, which turns on the switch illumination.
I bought the switch off Amazon and used a relay for the installation. First time for me on hooking up a relay. Painless but time consuming. When the headlights are turned on the switch is illuminated. When in the "on" position, the upper part of the switch is illuminated.
I mounted the relay to the battery box. 20 amp fuse to the battery. The switch is also wired to the "tail light" fuse under the dash, which turns on the switch illumination.
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- #59
It works!
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