ARB Drawer Owners...... I Have Some Questions for You. (1 Viewer)

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OK, I have 2x ARB RDRF1045's and LC200 fit kit so hopefully doing the install this weekend. Need some advice...

I'd prefer to mount my fridge on the passenger side slider as it seems best to put the weight opposite the driver and most people are right handed. I'd also like to power it off a portable solar battery (i.e. Jackery) so I can take the whole thing out for camping and possibly sleeping on top of the drawers. My plan was to cannibalize the 120V AC inverter on the left wheel well and just make it 12V DC and run that into the portable battery so it charges while driving. I haven't actually pulled off the panel to see where the inverter is - has anyone done this and have recommendations? Better to leave that alone and just run a wire back from the starter battery and mount that on that on the fit kit panel? Also saw a "coil" type DC power cable somewhere that looked like a good idea for taking up slack when rolling the fridge back and forth. Just curious what y'all are doing there.

Screen Shot 2021-03-20 at 8.19.00 AM.png


I'd also like to use drawer organizers but haven't really landed on a layout for that. The ARB Large and Small look like they will fit the 1045 drawers in a few different permutations per ARB specs. Does anyone use these with RDRF drawers and are there any other options? The Front Runner softboxes look too tall and are out of stock. I also don't want open top or rigid as I'd prefer to just take these out of the vehicle and only plop them in for trips i.e. kitchen box, recovery box, etc.. Combined with smaller packing cubes, this seems to be' OCD guy' nirvana ;)

Screen Shot 2021-03-20 at 8.41.45 AM.png


Thanks in advance for any tips.
 
Inverter is directly below the 3rd row seat release handle.

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I wouldn't use the inverter wiring for the DC-DC charger. I would run dedicated wires from the starter battery of sufficient size to be below 3% voltage drop at the charger's max current draw.
 
I wouldn't use the inverter wiring for the DC-DC charger. I would run dedicated wires from the starter battery of sufficient size to be below 3% voltage drop at the charger's max current draw.

Nice, thanks!

I have no use for the AC inverter, but yeah, probably better to just run a cable from engine compartment or even the cigarette lighter below the back seat controls.
 
I'd also like to use drawer organizers but haven't really landed on a layout for that. The ARB packing cubes.

View attachment 2620251

Thanks in advance for any tips.
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I use one of the cubes for my camp kitchen. Makes it easy to store in garage or pull out at camp.
 
Wow, that looks really tidy. L track on the top makes a lot of sense too.

The published dims are:

RDRF1045 internal = 37.5" x 18.3" x 8.7"
L organizer = 15.75" x 15.75" x 7.09"
S organizer = 15.75" x 6.30" x 7.09"

So it looks like you could get 2 large and almost 6 small ARB soft boxes (or some combination thereof) in the LC200 1045 size drawers? It also looks like ARB designed these with metric dimensions so the large is 40x40x18 cm and the small is 40x16x18 cm which makes a little more sense.

These drawers are fantastic but the directions were an absolute train wreck!
 
Wow, that looks really tidy. L track on the top makes a lot of sense too.

The published dims are:

RDRF1045 internal = 37.5" x 18.3" x 8.7"
L organizer = 15.75" x 15.75" x 7.09"
S organizer = 15.75" x 6.30" x 7.09"

So it looks like you could get 2 large and almost 6 small ARB soft boxes (or some combination thereof) in the LC200 1045 size drawers? It also looks like ARB designed these with metric dimensions so the large is 40x40x18 cm and the small is 40x16x18 cm which makes a little more sense.

These drawers are fantastic but the directions were an absolute train wreck!

Or...you could really go nuts on tracks...

Overkill, sure...but honestly, it turns outto be incredibly handy to be able to tie thi gs down at any odd angle or shape...on each drawer...and still be able to slide either or both floors.
 
OK, I have 2x ARB RDRF1045's and LC200 fit kit so hopefully doing the install this weekend. Need some advice...

I'd prefer to mount my fridge on the passenger side slider as it seems best to put the weight opposite the driver and most people are right handed. I'd also like to power it off a portable solar battery (i.e. Jackery) so I can take the whole thing out for camping and possibly sleeping on top of the drawers. My plan was to cannibalize the 120V AC inverter on the left wheel well and just make it 12V DC and run that into the portable battery so it charges while driving. I haven't actually pulled off the panel to see where the inverter is - has anyone done this and have recommendations? Better to leave that alone and just run a wire back from the starter battery and mount that on that on the fit kit panel? Also saw a "coil" type DC power cable somewhere that looked like a good idea for taking up slack when rolling the fridge back and forth. Just curious what y'all are doing there.

View attachment 2620220

I'd also like to use drawer organizers but haven't really landed on a layout for that. The ARB Large and Small look like they will fit the 1045 drawers in a few different permutations per ARB specs. Does anyone use these with RDRF drawers and are there any other options? The Front Runner softboxes look too tall and are out of stock. I also don't want open top or rigid as I'd prefer to just take these out of the vehicle and only plop them in for trips i.e. kitchen box, recovery box, etc.. Combined with smaller packing cubes, this seems to be' OCD guy' nirvana ;)

View attachment 2620251

Thanks in advance for any tips.


I also put mine on the Passenger side.

I would not pull off that other panel to remove the inverter.

There is a hole (rubber grommet) on the floor under the 2nd row seating, on the passenger side link of on the area that sloops and you can run a power to there from up front. If you do that don't forget to put a breaker on the line on both ends.

I used a 110 volt black coiled line off amazon and just cut off the ends and wired the black and white wires to the cooler 12 volt plug and to a fuse to the 12 volt source. I put a small marine electrical block with fuses on the back of the 1045 arb draw and fused it there.

I have not used those ARB organization boxes, but they do look nice. I used come plastic tubs from walmart.
 
@Fisher23 - cool thanks for the input.

@Markuson - thanks for the L-track porn, dang these drawers are getting spendy! I do have that stuff all over my Sprinter van floor and it's super useful. I usually route a channel and get it to lie flush with the surface, but the ARB slider top doesn't look meaty enough to pull that off plus carpet mess etc...

Also, I thought L track was a patented product only available at US Cargo Control. Is Mac's "VersaTie" functionally compatible and any benefits one way or another?
 
@Fisher23 - cool thanks for the input.

@Markuson - thanks for the L-track porn, dang these drawers are getting spendy! I do have that stuff all over my Sprinter van floor and it's super useful. I usually route a channel and get it to lie flush with the surface, but the ARB slider top doesn't look meaty enough to pull that off plus carpet mess etc...

Also, I thought L track was a patented product only available at US Cargo Control. Is Mac's "VersaTie" functionally compatible and any benefits one way or another?

The L-Track is really nice, but what I did instead with my cooler was use the arb mounts and some stainless steel body washed and bolts, about $20 vs $100+
The L-Track does give you the option if you're not using the cooler and mounting other stuff in the back. It is a nice setup.
 
Depending on how tall your fridge is, I strongly recommend putting it on the driver side if you want to maintain any visibility out of the rear corner through the glass. The ARB 50qt blocks the whole window, and the 63qt while shorter still blocks a decent bit of the window. For wiring, the only “right” way to do it is to run dedicated power to it, especially if you ever want to go back to a fully functional stock operation. Keep in mind when you go to sell in the future the next buyer may very well want the AC outlet in the back, so if it’s been hacked for the fridge you may lose some buyers. If you run dedicated power, add a fuse block and attach to the rear of the drawer to make adding any future wiring projects easy. It will add minimal cost but decrease future time and frustration by lot!

My 50qt fridge would have totally blocked the passenger side rear window as you can see here:

D67CB688-3944-487B-89B2-0FD8363D8FF3.jpeg
 
Wow, that looks really tidy. L track on the top makes a lot of sense too.

The published dims are:

RDRF1045 internal = 37.5" x 18.3" x 8.7"
L organizer = 15.75" x 15.75" x 7.09"
S organizer = 15.75" x 6.30" x 7.09"

So it looks like you could get 2 large and almost 6 small ARB soft boxes (or some combination thereof) in the LC200 1045 size drawers? It also looks like ARB designed these with metric dimensions so the large is 40x40x18 cm and the small is 40x16x18 cm which makes a little more sense.

These drawers are fantastic but the directions were an absolute train wreck!
I ordered last week and per Ben @ Slee you can fit two large per drawer with the little room to spare.
 
Good point. I use a small fridge (36 quart?) so shouldn't be too bad, but I do like to see out the back window. More justification for L track and some flexibility in mounting options.

It looks like the 37qt is 16.9" tall vs 20" tall for the 50qt. I think it's a good idea to put L track on both drawers and try the fridge in different places. Don't overthink the weight distribution - the fridge only weighs 45 pounds, so even fully loaded a passenger or even a recovery bag is going to have more impact than the fridge. The gas tank is on the passenger side, so the fridge weight is the equivalent of about 5 gallons of gas which is not something anyone thinks about. Visibility and safety are far more important to consider IMO.
 
And I'll just add that my dogs LOVE the drawers: laying on them they can still see out the windows!
That rules then out for me. My female Newfie gets carsick if she can see out the windows.

Bummer.
 
@mcgaskins - thanks, you're right - visibility and safety are #1 for me so will get some L track so I can fiddle with fridge placement and even change it as conditions dictate. FWIW: I took a lot of inspiration from your "Palladium" build and phislosophy, so it really helps to have a reference as this is my first LC .
 
@mcgaskins - thanks, you're right - visibility and safety are #1 for me so will get some L track so I can fiddle with fridge placement and even change it as conditions dictate. FWIW: I took a lot of inspiration from your "Palladium" build and phislosophy, so it really helps to have a reference as this is my first LC .

Sounds like a good plan and I'm glad it was helpful!
 
For those of you who do not have lots of passengers... I am a huge fan of placing the fridge in the second row in one of two configurations.
-Both still allow sleeping in the back on one side or the other.
-Dramatically lowers and centers the weight of a full fridge
-Access while driving & without opening swing-arms
-Massively improves rearward visibility
-No ceiling height issues for fridge door
-Retains full rear cargo area.

Have a look.
60% seat removed:
5417F823-9821-4E19-83A9-2F3D07C9EE3E.jpeg
505C3F2C-5485-480A-B9F8-FCD7B00538A1.jpeg


40% seat removed:
0C8821A3-FF3B-4F84-AAEB-5FCD64973296.jpeg
3D23D60F-A315-42EE-ACB2-6B528AC93847.jpeg
992C96B5-D838-464F-9A99-8ADE98F32F84.jpeg


PS. This is the National Luna 60L Twin (two compartments with their own thermostat/controls for fridge/freezer, freezer/freezer or fridge/fridge options. Temps shown are in degrees Celsius. It will go as low as -25).
 
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For those of you who do not have lots of passengers... I am a huge fan of placing the fridge in the second row in one of two configurations.
-Both still allow sleeping in the back on one side or the other.
-Dramatically lowers and centers the weight of a full fridge
-Access while driving & without opening swing-arms
-Massively improves rearward visibility
-No ceiling height issues for fridge door
-Retains full rear cargo area.

Have a look.
60% seat removed:
View attachment 2622849View attachment 2622848

40% seat removed:
View attachment 2622847View attachment 2622846View attachment 2622850

I like that a lot. How is the fridge secured in those locations?
 
I like that a lot. How is the fridge secured in those locations?

Drilled holes in the heavy steel fridge plate from National Luna to match the very heavy seat anchor bolt holes in the floor. Heavy washers complete this, and allow easy remival of fridge with plate in place, or plate removal.
 

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