ARB Drawer Owners...... I Have Some Questions for You. (3 Viewers)

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Markuson... this is my favorite pic of your truck. So much ingenuity in this photo.

Thanks!
A lot of my nutty tailgate/interior/cargo ideas started from a wheelchair, and shortly after. When stuck sitting for months, ya better have something creative to think about, or insanity kicks in... :hillbilly:
 
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OK, got some L track and got it mounted thanks to @Markuson 's other thread. Was able to reuse the rivnuts on the front (M6 x 1.5") so everything lines up perfectly.
rails.jpg


The only catch is that the end caps I ordered don't lie down flush so will probably just grind down the rough edges for a cleaner look.

Also ordered some ARB cargo organizers to keep stuff, uh, organized. Found that these little $10 ammo boxes fit perfectly and are also waterproof so good for fluids and such.
IMG_3898.jpg


Will get everything packed up and do a show and tell if it comes out like I am envisioning it.
 
OK, got some L track and got it mounted thanks to @Markuson 's other thread. Was able to reuse the rivnuts on the front (M6 x 1.5") so everything lines up perfectly.
View attachment 2631084

The only catch is that the end caps I ordered don't lie down flush so will probably just grind down the rough edges for a cleaner look.

Also ordered some ARB cargo organizers to keep stuff, uh, organized. Found that these little $10 ammo boxes fit perfectly and are also waterproof so good for fluids and such.
View attachment 2631092

Will get everything packed up and do a show and tell if it comes out like I am envisioning it.

What L track are you using? Pretty sure the holes in the track do not line up with the 4 rivnuts in the drawer top. Are you saying you only used the front rivnut and drilled the track for the other positions? Or drilled the drawer?
 
OK, got some L track and got it mounted thanks to @Markuson 's other thread. Was able to reuse the rivnuts on the front (M6 x 1.5") so everything lines up perfectly.
View attachment 2631084

The only catch is that the end caps I ordered don't lie down flush so will probably just grind down the rough edges for a cleaner look.

Also ordered some ARB cargo organizers to keep stuff, uh, organized. Found that these little $10 ammo boxes fit perfectly and are also waterproof so good for fluids and such.
View attachment 2631092

Will get everything packed up and do a show and tell if it comes out like I am envisioning it.

Nice work.

Couple suggestions to consider:

-If you haven’t already, I would drill through the fullplywood top, and anchor with washers and a nut at several points underneath, (making sure you don’t interrup tge cross braces of course). This is because when you strongly anchor stuff with straps, it has a lot of pull force over time. Not hard to do. Might need to shorten bomts to fit, etc.

-Other item definitely worth the extra are these end pieces for your track:
1617142007077.jpeg

These end pieces dramatically improve the ability to slide gear in without damage, scrapes, etc. No need for them to be anchored for huge strebth,ads they are just protective caps/slides...so even a wood screw can work for them, though a bolt/nut is better.
 
L track is US Cargo Control airline angled type.

I just used the front rivnut as an anchor point since it is exactly in the center of the metal bracing, and then drilled 8 holes (4" on center) for 1/4-20 1.25" stainless bolts and locking nuts. It just seemed like the strongest place to anchor things (I trust a large piece of steel more than plywood) and also provided the widest possible spread for things like fridges. I guess if some extreme force shears the sliding floor off the drawers completely, then all bets are off.
rivnut.jpg

btm.jpg


And yes, I will finish the ends at some point. USCG makes matching end caps but they are not as elegant as the Mac's ones and they overlap the front trim so I left them off for now. As with anything, I learned a lot on this attempt so might do it differently next time.

I also generally use nylon straps, but Perfect Bungee's are hard to beat for temporary use as they are a little sticky and adjustable. Choices are good.

Also, does anyone have issues with the bottom trim cracking? Mine were all broken out of the box but I'm not sure if I care enough to ask ARB for some new ones.

crack.jpg
 
L track is US Cargo Control airline angled type.

I just used the front rivnut as an anchor point since it is exactly in the center of the metal bracing, and then drilled 8 holes (4" on center) for 1/4-20 1.25" stainless bolts and locking nuts. It just seemed like the strongest place to anchor things (I trust a large piece of steel more than plywood) and also provided the widest possible spread for things like fridges. I guess if some extreme force shears the sliding floor off the drawers completely, then all bets are off.
View attachment 2631135
View attachment 2631140

And yes, I will finish the ends at some point. USCG makes matching end caps but they are not as elegant as the Mac's ones and they overlap the front trim so I left them off for now. As with anything, I learned a lot on this attempt so might do it differently next time.

I also generally use nylon straps, but Perfect Bungee's are hard to beat for temporary use as they are a little sticky and adjustable. Choices are good.

Also, does anyone have issues with the bottom trim cracking? Mine were all broken out of the box but I'm not sure if I care enough to ask ARB for some new ones.

View attachment 2631153

Ah. Ya, on mine, I didnt stay at the edge...because I wanted to mimic the exact width of my alu-boxes &sabe extra width for sleeping on other side. If at the edges & on the metal, then never mind. Still not sureabout tive nuts on the ends, if using ratchet straps...but enchors in the middle should be fine.

Re plywood... I meant the plywood that is the main top structure...but thats only if you offset your anchors away from the edges.
 
OK so I'm dialed in on the ARB drawer installs, fit kit and L track, so moving on to organization. Got some ARB "cargo organizers" and really like them. First impression is that they are smaller than I had envisioned (large is only 16"x16") but also very well built and an ideal match for the 1045 drawers. Other bonus points are that they fold up easily ( I can nest 4 smalls and a large inside one large for storage when not used), have gripper feet to prevent them from sliding around in the drawers, have finger loops on very robust zippers, and are padded but not so much as to rob you of valuable space. They fit close to the edges of the drawers but you can still sneak in some stuff if desired as there is 2" to spare. Very beefy handles and these should last a long time if not handled too roughly. Evidentially those Aussie's know what works :geek:

org.jpg


Also tried a Plano Sportsman 68 quart box on the sliding floor, but it is too small to use that space efficiently. Will look at Alubox stuff next (A081?), 25x the price but they have parallel walls and you can really dial in the fit so that should yield almost 50% more capacity and still keep the rear window view unobstructed. Anyone using Alubox on their ARB drawers and comments?
 
@Markuson - looks like you have an Alubox, what size and would you recommend it?

Definitely recommend alu-boxes. I use a combination of the 60L and 81L boxes.

The key point on both these boxes is that the lids cam both open fully while still strapped to my drawers by the handles. Trey just clear the roof.

2 more important things if still selevting ARB drawer options...

Having BOTH drawers with sliding top/floor is *incredibly* helpful for 2 reasons:
1. -Sliding them out makes for super easy access to the box content without ever needimg to remove them.
2. -If you install the Kaon roof shelf, the ability to slide the floors out is ivdn more important, because sliding out means the tops then clear the lower ceiling height back of rhe Kaon...so you can still fully open each box.

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Great thanks! That's exactly what I was hoping to hear. I might designate the Alubox be my "wet" box, meaning it could contain some water packs and other stuff that could leak. Looks like the Alubox edges are sealed with silicone (as opposed to one piece of molded plastic) but that is about the only downside I can see. Any reservations for that intended use?

Plano box = $14, Alubox = $350+. That BETTER be a good solution 😆
 
For those of you who do not have lots of passengers... I am a huge fan of placing the fridge in the second row in one of two configurations.
-Both still allow sleeping in the back on one side or the other.
-Dramatically lowers and centers the weight of a full fridge
-Access while driving & without opening swing-arms
-Massively improves rearward visibility
-No ceiling height issues for fridge door
-Retains full rear cargo area.

Have a look.
60% seat removed:
View attachment 2622849View attachment 2622848

40% seat removed:
View attachment 2622847View attachment 2622846View attachment 2622850

PS. This is the National Luna 60L Twin (two compartments with their own thermostat/controls for fridge/freezer, freezer/freezer or fridge/fridge options. Temps shown are in degrees Celsius. It will go as low as -25).
May I ask where you got those hook and loop storage pouches for your ARB drawers? Also the storage on the sides are those attached to the old seat belt bolt holes? Like the organization. That’s what I called dialed in!
 
May I ask where you got those hook and loop storage pouches for your ARB drawers? Also the storage on the sides are those attached to the old seat belt bolt holes? Like the organization. That’s what I called dialed in!

Thanks. Honestly, the quick grab stuff on my drawers is incredibly convenient . Somrwhere on here I posted particulars, but its been a while...

Tools are held by a combination of small 5.11 hook panels and larger panels made by “Blackhawk!” though I don’t recall the name of each piece...

Side fit kits attach directky to tge drawers only, and to not connect to seat bolts.l, nor any other side points. Fullu drawer mounted only.
 
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