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- #41
The Green Grease is sounding better by the minute! 
Anyone Using Valvoline SynPower NLGI #2 Grease for U-joints and Slide Yokes? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter calskibum
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The Green Grease is sounding better by the minute!
I do not have the famous 100 series driveline clunk that there are hundreds of threads on...sooooo.....yeah. That.
I've experienced that clunk before......but not once
since I started using Green grease.
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- #44
Spike555 and leveeguy, for the slip yokes, do you pump the Green Grease until it seeps out or do you just give it a couple of pumps once in a while. I know there has been extensive discussions on this at the official thunk thread, but was just wondering what your practice is since we're talking about using Green Grease specifically. Thanks.
Personally I pump grease into the slip yokes until it starts to seep out. Same with the u-joints. And I grease everything at every single oil change, which I do every 5,000 miles.
Why anyone would'nt grease everything at every oil change I have no idea. That's parts of the reason for the preventative maintence.
Not a good idea to pump the slip yoke until it seeps out if you are a wheeler. Grease does not compress and the yoke needs to be able to freely move in and out when articulating. If your yoke is full with grease and you wheel this is not possible and things break. Im also one of those guys that greases to frequently (more often than every 5K) and proud of it.
I do a major service on the yoke annually by removing and cleaning. I fill the yoke, remove the zerk, and compress the driveline letting the excess grease out of the yokes zerk hole. Its easy to see the wear mark on the yoke to determine where the fully compressed position is. Once the driveline is fully install I then reinstall the zerk lastly. When lube time comes around I just give the yoke 2 pumps and move on.
I dont wheel, just light offroad for work purposes. I pump until I either hear some release of trapped air or I see the slightest amount of grease begin to seep out
Normal
I've always used the lucas oil X-tra heavy duty grease because its always available at the local auto parts store.
X-TRA Heavy Duty Grease
X-TRA Heavy Duty Grease
Not a good idea to pump the slip yoke until it seeps out if you are a wheeler. Grease does not compress and the yoke needs to be able to freely move in and out when articulating. If your yoke is full with grease and you wheel this is not possible and things break. Im also one of those guys that greases to frequently (more often than every 5K) and proud of it.
I do a major service on the yoke annually by removing and cleaning. I fill the yoke, remove the zerk, and compress the driveline letting the excess grease out of the yokes zerk hole. Its easy to see the wear mark on the yoke to determine where the fully compressed position is. Once the driveline is fully install I then reinstall the zerk lastly. When lube time comes around I just give the yoke 2 pumps and move on.
Nope. No hard core wheeling, I have to drive it to work on Monday and all.
I do the dunes, two tracking, dirt roads to fast and speed bumps really slow.
Don't get the idea that I grease it until it's all gooey around the entire yoke seal, I do not. I grease until it is good and hard to squeeze the grease gun, sometimes grease comes out the yoke seal, sometimes not.
I'm not crawling under my truck unless I need to, I know me and my limitations, and they include not getting my creeper out unless I really need to.
Bump this old thread for the question on which grease.
I didn't feel the clunk when I got my LX. Since then I started to do my own greasing on the shaft by Green Grease. Now I can clearly feel the clunk. Not saying it's connected with what grease I used, but just listed the fact to figure out what I might have done wrong.
So all the Green Grease I purchased, one at WalMart 3 years ago and 1 from AutoZone 3 days ago, were different from the brochure listed on the manufacturer's website, or the datasheet. All the online documents stated it's NLGI #2 and good for up to 500 degree. However, all I received were NLGI #1.5 and up to 400 degree. Could this be the reason why clunk? How or where could you get the Green Grease same as the one listed on its website?
I didn't feel the clunk when I got my LX. Since then I started to do my own greasing on the shaft by Green Grease. Now I can clearly feel the clunk. Not saying it's connected with what grease I used, but just listed the fact to figure out what I might have done wrong.
So all the Green Grease I purchased, one at WalMart 3 years ago and 1 from AutoZone 3 days ago, were different from the brochure listed on the manufacturer's website, or the datasheet. All the online documents stated it's NLGI #2 and good for up to 500 degree. However, all I received were NLGI #1.5 and up to 400 degree. Could this be the reason why clunk? How or where could you get the Green Grease same as the one listed on its website?
I am wondering this as well, just purchased my first tube of Green Grease today and it’s 1.5…
Went ahead and got some Lucas red and tacky as it’s 2.0 and I wanted to “maybe” try it.
I want that one grease for my 2000 LC, 2015 Tacoma 4x4, and S240 mower…
Prettty much a #2 is it but I haven’t dove in to all the different types of grease that say #2 on them!
If you ask me it’s very vague and must be a pretty broad specification….
I’ve used syn power w-moly in the slip joint and it tends to dry out with age and heat. Since been using green grease in slip joint, spiders, and spindle bearings- and right or wrong, in my wheel bearings. I think it’s even a pretty suitable grease for CV axles as well.
It’s flash point is over 500f (supposedly) also pretty sticky stuff- hard to wash out which suits my needs. Only downside is that there’s no wheel bearing rating of green grease that I’m aware of- good wheel bearing grease should have a GC-LB on the label/ found nowhere in nomenclature
It’s flash point is over 500f (supposedly) also pretty sticky stuff- hard to wash out which suits my needs. Only downside is that there’s no wheel bearing rating of green grease that I’m aware of- good wheel bearing grease should have a GC-LB on the label/ found nowhere in nomenclature
