Anyone Using Valvoline SynPower NLGI #2 Grease for U-joints and Slide Yokes?

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calskibum

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I know there are plenty of threads about grease, but I spent hours reading the various threads on what grease to use for the u-joints and the slide yoke, and the more I read the more confused I am. Some says moly grease is ok for both the u-joints and the slide yokes, but others say that only lithium-based grease (and not moly) should be used for the u-joints, but moly is ok for the slide yokes.

So my question is specifically about the Valvoline SynPower:

(https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-VV985-Synthetic-Grease-Synpower/dp/B000CQ4DK0/?tag=ihco-20).

It is a NLGI #2 grease and is both moly fortified and lithium based. I'm thinking about ordering this. It's readily available through Amazon, but I don't see many people mentioning that they use this grease, so my question is is this grease safe or appropriate to use for both the u-joints and the slide yokes or am I totally off. And if you've used this grease for the u-joints and slide yokes, do you recommend it?
 
Yes, it can be confusing.. One can easily get lost in between the marketing claims by manufacturers and opinionated declarations by net junkies.

I used one tube and didn't buy another one. It can be used for the sliders. A lot of folks use it for U-joints as well. I do not use Moly for the joints, never did,and failure analysis mechanical engineers I met, recommended me to stay away from Moly in the joints. Of course, sales reps will tell you that you can use it in everything, and the particular product they sell is special, the particle size in their Mly fortified grease is this or that number of nanometers - actually great for everything, especially your stomach epithelium.

There is even a documented battle of a Schaeffer peddler (the BITOG founder) with an engineer, and the salesman won. Looks like in our modest civilian fleets, it goes well for years, but in commercial fleets there was a correlation between the additive and the U-joint failure rate.
That engineer actually specialized in rear differentials and drive-shafts. You can find him easily.

I ddin't like it in the sliders for another reason: it would dry up too quickly and needed constant re-lubing in my case. perhaps, it was an odd specimen - I cannot claim enough samples to talk about a trend.

If you grease regularly, you could use any MP grease (MP = multi-purpose).

I use Mobil 1, Chevron Delo ESI, Mobilgrease XHP 222, Mobilgrease XHP 222 Special (Moly). The latter two have a marine grease pedigree and are quite tacky and plastic for a long time, but they are industrial greases, not certified for automotive use. Delo ESI is the only with MB-Approval listing - you can also use it in your front wheel bearings. Its limitation: the low temp floor is not suitable for winter states.

Mobil, Valvoline and Chevron can be bought or ordered by Autozone or many other parts stores. I bought XHP 222 Greases from zoro.com - they have periodic 30% 0ff coupons and shipping can be free over $50 (the same source is also good for Zerex coolants to your door with a good seasonal discount). The best ones I have (both #1 and #2) are from Lubrication Engineers, but those are expensive.

You can also look up a local Mobil/Shell/Chevron distributors and they may surprise you too.

Don't overthink this, but I keep Moly out of my U-joints.

[Now, it's time for other users to pop out and say they have been using Moly grease in everything for 77+ years with no ill effects]
 
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I have been using Valvoline SynPower for years in all of my vehicles including my front wheel bearings. I do very regular maintenance and do not do anything to extreme off road and do not do a crazy amount of stream crossings, but never had any issues. Their might be something that is better, but it always seemed like a nice affordable grease.
 
calskibum said:
Thanks, apdxyk, for the detailed explanation. The "XHP 220" grease that you mentioned, is it the same as this "SHC 220"? Mobil Mobilith SHC 220, Synth Grease, 13.7 oz. 121952 | Zoro.com
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No. See, it can be confusing. While it is, I'd use a simple and single 'solution' until you figure that out or decide it doesn't matter :)

Mobil Mobilgrease XHP 222

Mobil Mobilgrease XHP 222 Special

the Special variety has a touch of Moly in it, and according to a few engineers I talked to our sliders are not really loaded like some CAT equipment, and Moly is "desirable" there.

Don't complicate your life, get a simple "regular" grease at first and enjoy the obsession slowly, step-by-step

Added: Mobil Mobilith SHC line is a high quality synthetic industrial grease. I use their Mobilith SHC 221 in the front wheel spindle needle bearings. Gives me 50k service between repacks easily.
 
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Yes . Synpower for slip joint only, its not a good choice for u joints because of the moly. I use Mobil1 for ujoints and wheel bearings.
 
abuck99 said:
Yes . Synpower for slip joint only, its not a good choice for u joints because of the moly. I use Mobil1 for ujoints and wheel bearings.
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IMO Mobile 1 sucks for ujoint as it does not last long at all.
 
Perfect timing. I just ran out of Valvoline grease that i use for my u joints and shafts and got some Mobil 1 synthetic today, should i not use it? No issues with the Valvoline, just wanted to try something else.

I also used some master pro grease when i packed my bearings as it was the only thing available at the time. Did i mess up on that?

This sounds like it's more complicated than it should be.

I've attached pictures of what i used. Lmk if anything's going to explode.

That zoro website has too many choices.

20181029_230556.webp


mobil-1-synthetic-grease.webp


download.webp
 
The Green Grease Data Sheet

looks like extremely heavy duty ISO 900 grease to me, not that it is bad by itself, but I would put it on steering knuckles for sure.

Here is a dated discussion on the topic with a few comments on its composition and practice

Mobil 1 is an excellent grease, if it stays where it was applied, heated debates on the topic. I prefer it in a tab.

More meditations on grease or how to make simple things complicated. it is easy to be confused as the rating, classification, testing and certification doesn't make sense at first.
 
I only use green grease on driveline stuff. I tried it on wheel bearings once but it produces more drag then Im comfortable with not to say it would be a problem.:meh: Green Grease is super sticky and takes heat very well. I watched Mobil 1 red leak out the steering head of my moto just from the AZ heat. Then I replaced with GG and no more leaky.:) I switched from Mobile red to XHP222 after I open up a wheel/hub with 40K on it and it looked amazing. Anymore my once go to grease Mobile 1 does not get used much at all.
 
apdxyk said:
The Green Grease Data Sheet

looks like extremely heavy duty ISO 900 grease to me, not that it is bad by itself, but I would put it on steering knuckles for sure.

Here is a dated discussion on the topic with a few comments on its composition and practice

Mobil 1 is an excellent grease, if it stays where it was applied, heated debates on the topic. I prefer it in a tab.

More meditations on grease or how to make simple things complicated. it is easy to be confused as the rating, classification, testing and certification doesn't make sense at first.
Click to expand...

Yes Bobistheoilguy can be extreme, sometime to. Its better to lubricate often than using the 'best stuff' not so often.
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
IMO Mobile 1 sucks for ujoint as it does not last long at all.
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For Ujoints I dont have a problem with M1- for sure its black when I push the old out at 5k intervals but it doesnt dry up or film out.

I looked up the TDS on the grease you use and it seems very good- but its not widely available at part stores around here and would have to be ordered: amazon etc.

ibrahim83 said:
Perfect timing. I just ran out of Valvoline grease that i use for my u joints and shafts and got some Mobil 1 synthetic today, should i not use it? No issues with the Valvoline, just wanted to try something else.

I also used some master pro grease when i packed my bearings as it was the only thing available at the time. Did i mess up on that?

This sounds like it's more complicated than it should be.

I've attached pictures of what i used. Lmk if anything's going to explode.

That zoro website has too many choices.

View attachment 1821419

View attachment 1821420

View attachment 1821421
Click to expand...

You just dont want to use Moly based grease on ujoints(needle bearings), wheel bearings, or spindle bearings.

Moly is fine on slip joints, ball joints, poly bushings, johnny joints.
 
Although I know there isn't a perfect grease for everything, I'm trying to keep it simple and start with just one grease for both the u-joints and slip yokes. I'm intrigued about the Green Grease. LandCruiserPhil, sounds like the Green Grease works will in hot climates. Do you have any experience with it in sub-freezing weather? My LC is used in climates from 105+ F down to 15 F. Even though the data sheet lists the low end of the operating temp for Green Grease at -20F, but I wonder in real life if the thickness of Green Grease has any negative impact on the u-joints and slip yokes in cold weather. Keep in mind that I don't really know anything about grease so I apologize if this sounds like a stupid question. Just trying to learn from all the experiences from everyone on the forum.
 
LandCruiserPhil said:
Green Grease is my go to for u-joints and slip yokes after trying many others.
Click to expand...

Green Grease for the win baby!! Been using it for a thousand years in everything.
Full synthetic, washout proof, dust proof adn does not dry out.
I even used it in the swivel housings on my Discovery to lube the CV joints. I mixed it with gear oil to make my own "00" grease.
I buy mine on Amazon.

Green Grease | The Best Grease Money Can Buy!
 
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