Anyone Using Valvoline SynPower NLGI #2 Grease for U-joints and Slide Yokes? (1 Viewer)

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Although I know there isn't a perfect grease for everything, I'm trying to keep it simple and start with just one grease for both the u-joints and slip yokes. I'm intrigued about the Green Grease. LandCruiserPhil, sounds like the Green Grease works will in hot climates. Do you have any experience with it in sub-freezing weather? My LC is used in climates from 105+ F down to 15 F. Even though the data sheet lists the low end of the operating temp for Green Grease at -20F, but I wonder in real life if the thickness of Green Grease has any negative impact on the u-joints and slip yokes in cold weather. Keep in mind that I don't really know anything about grease so I apologize if this sounds like a stupid question. Just trying to learn from all the experiences from everyone on the forum.

Green Grease is suitable to -50 to 500+.
I live where it gets kinda cold (below zero) and have had zero problems...ever.

It is full synthetic so it does not thicken when it gets cold. Just like full synthetic motor oil, it stays consistent over it's operating range.
 
The Green Grease is sounding pretty good. I'm surprised that not more people are using it, or at least more reviews on the internet. The price is a bit higher, but I think it may be worth it if it is everything that it says on the bottle and that it lasts longer so you don't have to grease as often.
 
The Green Grease is sounding pretty good. I'm surprised that not more people are using it, or at least more reviews on the internet. The price is a bit higher, but I think it may be worth it if it is everything that it says on the bottle and that it lasts longer so you don't have to grease as often.

I grease at every oil change, and you should too.
I change my oil every 5,000 miles. I have gone 10,000 once but did not feel good about it. Either way there was no problem with the grease.
On my wifes Sedona, I change the oil every 5,000 miles which is about once a year, and the ball joints and sway bar end links need to be greased too, once a year and they are still full of grease. And this grease does not dry out and harden like other greases.
As for why others do not use it, I assume some have not heard of it, others do not do their own work and the rest are following the factory service manual to the "T", including the brand of grease that they buy at the dealer.

Try it, if you do not like it you can try something else.
My second choice of grease would be Lucas Oil Red and Tacky, that's what we used when I drove cement truck. It sticks to everything and everything sticks to it, but it's cheap when you buy it by the case.
 
you guys convinced me on GG, going to try tomorrow on my new to me lx470.

i like simple like OP so using GG sounds great.

thanks
 
you guys convinced me on GG, going to try tomorrow on my new to me lx470.

i like simple like OP so using GG sounds great.

thanks

That's why I use it, one and done. Wheel bearings (grease buddy's on trailer hubs), swivel balls, chassis, driveline, lawnmower differential...one grease gun, one grease, d-o-n-e...
 
Just be aware that the Green Grease is around ISO 1000 vs the required ISO 220.
 
I went and picked up a tube of the Green Grease and decide to try it in the u-joints first. Not having ever used a grease gun before, I took the recommendations of some in the forum and used a Lincoln 1134 with a Lock N Lube attachment. Although the combination worked nicely for me, I found out that the Lock N Lube did not fit in the area of the front u-joint zerk for both the front and rear draft shaft. I ended up only greasing the rear u-joints of the two shafts. The Green Grease went in fine, and it took maybe 5-6 pumps in each zerk before I see the old black grease being pushed out. I gave it around 3-4 more pumps to make sure that it was mostly Green Grease coming out. Cleaning up all the excess and old grease at the u-joints ended up being the longest part of the process. I used a wooden popsicle stick and paper towels to clean around the u-joints of the excess grease, but I"m looking for a better way so please let me know if anyone has an easier way.

Do people just use a needle attachment to grease the front u-joint zerk or something else?

apdxyk, is the ISO 220 requirement a minimum requirement or maximum? Is the requirement for grease on the u-joints or slip yokes or both?
 
I went and picked up a tube of the Green Grease and decide to try it in the u-joints first. Not having ever used a grease gun before, I took the recommendations of some in the forum and used a Lincoln 1134 with a Lock N Lube attachment. Although the combination worked nicely for me, I found out that the Lock N Lube did not fit in the area of the front u-joint zerk for both the front and rear draft shaft. I ended up only greasing the rear u-joints of the two shafts. The Green Grease went in fine, and it took maybe 5-6 pumps in each zerk before I see the old black grease being pushed out. I gave it around 3-4 more pumps to make sure that it was mostly Green Grease coming out. Cleaning up all the excess and old grease at the u-joints ended up being the longest part of the process. I used a wooden popsicle stick and paper towels to clean around the u-joints of the excess grease, but I"m looking for a better way so please let me know if anyone has an easier way.

Do people just use a needle attachment to grease the front u-joint zerk or something else?

apdxyk, is the ISO 220 requirement a minimum requirement or maximum? Is the requirement for grease on the u-joints or slip yokes or both?

I use a needle nozzle on all zerks on everything. Much easier to see what you are doing, easier to fit, one hand smaller cartridge gun, and works well for many other task.

Lincoln 5803 nozzle is the best others bend too easy from my experience.
https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubrication-5803-Grease-Needle/dp/B0002SR6XE
This type of gun
https://www.amazon.com/Workforce-Grease-Cartridges-Flexible-Extension/dp/B003TFE82O
 
What do you use the needle for? I just stick my grease gen on the zerks and start pumping, when new grease comes out I stop.
On the slip yokes I do the same thing.
As for the excess, I let it sling off on it's own as I drive.
I have a normal sized grease gun that I've had for 20+yrs.
 
What do you use the needle for? I just stick my grease gen on the zerks and start pumping, when new grease comes out I stop.
On the slip yokes I do the same thing.
As for the excess, I let it sling off on it's own as I drive.
I have a normal sized grease gun that I've had for 20+yrs.

The exact same you the biggest difference is I have much more range with a needle. With a gun your driveline has to be more exact to access the zerks. As for the big gun mine is also older than most of the guys on this board but these days I have moly in it and its only use is topping off birfs.:) Dont hate on it until you try it.
 
+1 for Green Grease, and needle attachment although I need a better needle attachment for sure
 
The exact same you the biggest difference is I have much more range with a needle. With a gun your driveline has to be more exact to access the zerks. As for the big gun mine is also older than most of the guys on this board but these days I have moly in it and its only use is topping off birfs.:) Dont hate on it until you try it.

Not hating on it, just trying to understand.
What exactly do you do with the needle? You stick it in the middle of the zerk and press down the ball thingy with it?
 
Unless im doing it wrong, Yes as you describe, fit the needle tip into hole where ball thingy is and pump grease in while pressing upward on ball thingy, which the correct tool can make all the difference in my experience
 
Unless im doing it wrong, Yes as you describe, fit the needle tip into hole where ball thingy is and pump grease in while pressing upward on ball thingy, which the correct tool can make all the difference in my experience

Thank you for explaining that to me.
 
Ok, I know this is very much a newbie question since this is all new to me...but how do you guys store your grease? I try to read up on it on the internet but the methods mentioned vary, ranging from storing the tube outside the grease gun vertically to inside the grease gun horizontally but depressurize the gun. Since I'll probably only use it once a year or so and my 14 oz. tube will probably last me at least 2-3 years if not more, how do you guys store your grease without it going bad or having the oil separating from the additives like I read on the internet? I figure I ask here for everyone's real life methods.
 
No separation issues with Green Grease.
With all my vehicles I use mine a lot so its always ready to go.
I do not buy the small cartridges I refill the small using the large tubes.

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Ok, I know this is very much a newbie question since this is all new to me...but how do you guys store your grease? I try to read up on it on the internet but the methods mentioned vary, ranging from storing the tube outside the grease gun vertically to inside the grease gun horizontally but depressurize the gun. Since I'll probably only use it once a year or so and my 14 oz. tube will probably last me at least 2-3 years if not more, how do you guys store your grease without it going bad or having the oil separating from the additives like I read on the internet? I figure I ask here for everyone's real life methods.

You're overthinking it.
You are going to be using way more grease than you think you will. The slip yokes take a ton of it.
Throw your grease gun on the shelf, or where ever you want to store it. If you remove the tube (whoever suggested that is a moron) you're going to have a huge mess.
And everytime you change the tube you need to prime the gun. Leave the tube in. Like @LandCruiserPhil said, GreenGrease does not seperate. Most greases break down into their basestock, which is a liquid, not this stuff.
 
^ Advice from the pros.
 

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