Anyone use a rust converter ? (1 Viewer)

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i just spent about 9 hours under my bruiser knocking off the scale rust now I want to hault the rust I’m undecided weather to spray the hell out of it with atf or use a rust converter product , Iv never used a converter anyone’s have any experience with a product like this ? I found some vids of some stuff called rust sergeant Rust Sergeant RCMP, 1 gallon what’s your guys thoughts ?
 
i just spent about 9 hours under my bruiser knocking off the scale rust now I want to hault the rust I’m undecided weather to spray the hell out of it with atf or use a rust converter product , Iv never used a converter anyone’s have any experience with a product like this ? I found some vids of some stuff called rust sergeant Rust Sergeant RCMP, 1 gallon what’s your guys thoughts ?
 
I just use phosphoric acid from the paint department at Home Depot or Lowes. Rinse off with water and paint with Krylon Satin Black
Could I pour that into a garden sprayed and hose down the hell out of everything ?
 
Could I pour that into a garden sprayed and hose down the hell out of everything ?
I would be extremely cautious about doing that. It's acid, it will give you some nasty chemical burns and breathing it in an atomized form could be deadly. Not to mention your neighbors health as well.
 
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I have only used Plastikote rust converter.
https://www.amazon.com/PlastiKote-624-Rust-Converter-oz/dp/B000CPI0R8

The stuff is awesome. I apply with a paintbrush to my sliders, frame spots, axles, etc.. It is a fairly thin and can be drippy so you can't get a real thick coat. It dries into a hard flat black paintable surface. I have been very impressed with it. It cleans up with water, doesn't smell highly toxic, and doesn't destroy your brush. You can rinse the brush and reuse it with no problems.

I bought it to put on the threads from the nutserts in the factory roof rack and the rear spoiler (hate both of those things), and it was perfect for that too. After I got some of the rust converter on those threads I reinstalled stainless allen head screws and now all is good.

Good luck.
 
Could I pour that into a garden sprayed and hose down the hell out of everything ?

We use qt sized hand pump style spray bottles. Dilute as per instructions with water. Dries white, then rinse off with tap water and wipe dry. Spray paint after it is totally dry. Very good at killing rust.
 
Also remember the old rule of thumb - add acid to water, not water to acid.

-Worth a mention, I've got years of sulfuric acid production exp & use as a utility in a local refinery.
 
Not exactly an answer to your question, but I have had good luck over the last 15 years with Rust Bullet to seal/paint over de-scaled rust. I have not had good luck with any of the rust converters, but that could be me.

What is nice about Rust Bullet is you perform a basic descaling and cleaning, then two paint coats of Rust Bullet, and then a regular paint top coat (for UV protection). Done. This is a simple process as compared to most others.
 
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We use qt sized hand pump style spray bottles. Dilute as per instructions with water. Dries white, then rinse off with tap water and wipe dry. Spray paint after it is totally dry. Very good at killing rust.
Can it be applied in cooler temps ?its winter here in NE Ohio I have a turbo heater for my garage but it’s still cold outside
 
Can it be applied in cooler temps ?its winter here in NE Ohio I have a turbo heater for my garage but it’s still cold outside
Yes I used some the other day after welding on some armor it was 18degrees out its cured because its a chemical reaction. not ideal but it works
 
De-rusting the undercarriage of my 1995 a section at a time.

First power washed the heck out of it with Super Clean, Dawn, and/or Schaeffer Oil's Citrol depending on type of grime, grease and/or dirt, then chipped, scraped, wire brushed with drill and/or dremel and/or sanded off as much rust as possible, then used a rust remover (Evaporust for anything I can detach from truck, Rust Remover Gel from The Rust Store for anything I can't), then power wash again, then a rust converter -- I had some POR Metal Prep on hand from another project (Ospho, Phosphoric Acid, Duplicolor's Rust Coverter are a few I've also used), then rinsed again, then Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer and John Deere Blitz Black paint and/or 3M rubber undercoating. A few sections -- like rear crossmember and frame -- were instead finished off with POR 15 and POR 15 Top Coat.

Seems to get rid of most of the rust, then seals it in and the paint coat can be touched up at any point. I reckon the truck should last another 20 plus years after this treatment with reasonable upkeep. At least that's the plan.
 
Ospho.
 
I’ll keep you guys updated on results I should have took a pic before the descale today... my plane after reading I’m going to hit it with acid wash it then hit it with por 15 or rust Bullet can’t decide ... then I’ll let you fellas know how she works ... Ohio and pa are horrible for rust they have trucks that looks like farm equipments that spray a horrible, liquid by the tons on the streets and salt on top of that ! The bruiser I bought has spent its whole life up here so it will be a true test to what ever finish product I use !
 
Prepare to do it again in a year or 2.
None of that stuff is permanent.
 
I used marhyde one step on a replacement fender for my other ride. Been a couple years, no rust, no issues.
 
I have had pretty good luck with 3M Mar-Hyde rust converter 10 oz aerosol cans for about $12 each. As long as you knock down the bulk of the textured part of the rust, it will turn the surface rust black and inert. Did to bottom of my pickup bed trailer with it over 10 years ago, and it still looks new. Granted, I am in a pretty dry climate, but it DOES rain in Arizona.
 

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