Anyone use a rust converter ? (1 Viewer)

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I'm currently using Eastwood for my under carrage. Still have to re apply every year at around $50 or less a qt. shipped.
The Master series is almost $90. shipped. Do you see it as a one time application so far?

Yes its a one time application, its a paint not the oil wax type stuff. We wire brushed the frame to get any lose rust or paint off, painted at least two coats of the master series then sprayed with a 2k primer. We actually used the eastwood 2k primer. Eastwood as a rust encapsulator product which is similar but did not work nearly as well.

Eastwood also has the anti rust spray in spray cans or regular cans. That is a wax oil mixture and they have and have it where it dries black. That is more a preventer, dries like a real real hard wax, but nothing will stick on top of that stuff. Great for under body applications periodically when you to not want to wire brush and paint. We did take the spray gun with long tube after we painted the frames and sprayed the inside of the frames with that stuff where we could not paint, especially the boxed sections.

For body panels wire brushed scuffed and painted with the master series 2 coats with foam rollers then y2k primer 2 coats then auto paint. The master series is a real pain to sand out brush marks, it dries like a hard aluminum. We were dealing with some serious rusted vehicles. My sons bronco the fenders looked like swiss cheese after the wire brush, probably more metal gone then left. Limited budget for a college kid so we put on the master series 2 coats then he put fiber glass mat on the inside, body putty on the out side over the master series. For what the fenders where they are now solid and several years of salt spray no rust bubbles at all. Once he gets a real job he will buy replacement fenders but for now not bad for some work and only a little money. But probably everyone else would have pitched those rusted out fenders. The fact it is not rusting under the master series is extremely impressive and the stuff we put on top of it bonded so well. That is where it is best, body putty and fiber glass bonds to it real well, and it stops the rust under those products. Fiber glass or body putty over rust allows the rust to run under those products and really destroy it. This works great for preventing that with adhesion of those products.

I am not some sales guy just very impressed and hope to help people know some options, you can go through my build thread in my signature of my fj40, it was done at our old house but after we painted it we moved it to the beach. everything was coated with this product before painting.
 
Body panels are one thing, the under carriage - front axle,gas tank skid plate and rear axle are another.
 
I'm fighting the same battle, so far Rust Bullet is doing the trick. I'm going in sections since it has infected the entire under carriage. Hitting with a wirewheel good as possible, use the spray on converter (probably the phosphoric acid everyone is talking about) follow instructions and doing the silver base coat, black shell top coat and it's pretty good.

I've tried motor oil, bar and chain oil, and spray white lithium grease. All of it is temporary and certain lithium sprays actually made it worse. ATF (as suggested by OP) is also very temporary.
 
What about just oiling or fluid filming over everything now the the rust is neutralized , tbh I don’t really care how it looks I just don’t want rot

I'm lazy so I took my rig to The Rust Stop out here. That's basically what they did... acid/rust converter, reclean then fluid film. It worked well on my Taco so I have high hopes for the LC. They offer a lifetime warranty if any rust pops up, as long as it's oiled/filmed every year. That tells me they are pretty confident with that process.
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I live in san diego so we my undercarriage is still fairly intact with some surface rust, found some bad rust around the rear window seal so that will need to be fixed. Here we get salt in the air vs. the road as I live by the beach. So when the fog rolls in and layers the truck in dew that's when it happens. For the undercarriage I plan to use fluid film on the transfercase and other places that don't really need paint. On the other spots like axles, underbody etc I plan to use this eastwood paint, it is waxy and oily. I think it it will work better on areas that might not be completely clean of oil and residue, plus it can easily be recoated.

Heavy-Duty Anti-Rust in Black - Eastwood

Eventually the whole outer body will be coated in monstaliner. My stock paint is gone.
 
Does that white residue come off if you wipe it or is it part of the end process?

May need to soak it longer to get it off. I would just put a lawn sprinkler under it for a while. Paint over it as soon as it is dry to prevent more surface rust.
 

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