Anyone in (or around) Austin who can help a brother out?

[HawkGunner]

I've been having an issue with my 92 pickup that I can't seem to nail down, and its driving me up the wall.

Is there anyone knowledgable and local, who I could beg with a couple cases of cold beer, to come help me troubleshoot the problem on a Saturday?

 

[gnob]

Problem?

 

[HawkGunner]

Problem?

Truck starts fine, but idles a little rough until it warms up. During warmup, if I blip the throttle, it behaves as it should.

Once it warms up, it idles smooth, but a little high. If I blip the throttle, it sputters and almost dies/sometimes dies.

I have:

Replaced the temp sensor, TPS, EGR valve, vacuum modulator, AFM, Dist. cap, IACV, all the vacuum lines, and I have a spare computer. The issue presents itself regardless of which computer is plugged in.

ETA: When I first bought the truck 6 months ago, I noticed it didn't quite have the power or throttle response it should have, and was having trouble starting. So I checked the timing and found it to be off a little. I adjusted it to where it should have been, and from that point, all hell broke loose.

 

[gnob]

Where is the distributor clocked? Is it buried one way or the other to get correct timing?

 

[yotadude520]

Truck starts fine, but idles a little rough until it warms up. During warmup, if I blip the throttle, it behaves as it should.

Once it warms up, it idles smooth, but a little high. If I blip the throttle, it sputters and almost dies/sometimes dies.

I have:

Replaced the temp sensor, TPS, EGR valve, vacuum modulator, AFM, Dist. cap, IACV, all the vacuum lines, and I have a spare computer. The issue presents itself regardless of which computer is plugged in.

ETA: When I first bought the truck 6 months ago, I noticed it didn't quite have the power or throttle response it should have, and was having trouble starting. So I checked the timing and found it to be off a little. I adjusted it to where it should have been, and from that point, all hell broke loose.

How exactly did you adjust the timing?

 

[yotadude520]

Where is the distributor clocked? Is it buried one way or the other to get correct timing?

You beat me to it @gnob! I think we're on the same wavelength here though - timing is still off? Or way too advanced/retarded.

 

[HawkGunner]

Where is the distributor clocked? Is it buried one way or the other to get correct timing?

No, it's about in the middle-ish. When I adjusted the timing, I found that it was off a tooth.

I set the timing by jumping the connections on the diagnostic box and following the settings in the FSM.

I can try and reset the distributor tomorrow, if anyone thinks I should. Any tips would be appreciated.

 

[gnob]

Tps set properly?

The only other thing that I can think of is dirty TB or possibly sloppy blade.

 

[HawkGunner]

Tps set properly?

The only other thing that I can think of is dirty TB or possibly sloppy blade.

I set the TPS per the FSM, and cleaned the throttle body.

I guess I'll reset the distributor tomorrow and start checking everything again from the start. Just to be sure.

 

[gnob]

Ok. Last things.
Tps setting. Disregard the fsm instructions. Set as follows. Check between idl and ground. With blade closed there should be continuity. The circuit should go open as soon as you crack the blade. Adjust as necessary.

When i drive REs generally stock timing feels doggy to me. I go a touch advanced.

For shyts make sure your cable isn't hanging up too.


When its cold see if you can nail down the rough idle to a single cylinder. I had a bad injector make a fool out of me once.

 

[yotadude520]

I set the TPS per the FSM, and cleaned the throttle body.

I guess I'll reset the distributor tomorrow and start checking everything again from the start. Just to be sure.

Easiest way to check timing is to set the motor to TDC and then pull the distributor cap off. The rotor should be pointing to the number 1 spark plug (11 oclock)

 

[CreeperSleeper]

Is it running rich? Another idea would be the cold start injector leaking and adding more fuel into the intake. That would make for running rich and fouling plugs.

 

[pappy]

Since you are tossing parts at it ... replace the ox sensor.

 

[HawkGunner]

Easiest way to check timing is to set the motor to TDC and then pull the distributor cap off. The rotor should be pointing to the number 1 spark plug (11 oclock)

No.1 cylinder set to TDC and this is the position of my dizzy. I haven't moved it. Does it look right to you?

Also, the FSM says to set to TDC, and then adjust the notch on the crankshaft pulley to the 5° or 10° or something like that. Should I just leave it at TDC and go from there? Or follow the instructions in the FSM?

Since you are tossing parts at it ... replace the ox sensor.

I didn't start out by throwing parts at it... but then I got desperate haha.

I honestly don't want to just keep replacing stuff hoping to fix it somewhere along the line. But if you think I should replace the 02 sensor, I will.

 

[yotadude520]

No.1 cylinder set to TDC and this is the position of my dizzy. I haven't moved it. Does it look right to you?

Also, the FSM says to set to TDC, and then adjust the notch on the crankshaft pulley to the 5° or 10° or something like that. Should I just leave it at TDC and go from there? Or follow the instructions in the FSM?





I didn't start out by throwing parts at it... but then I got desperate haha.

I honestly don't want to just keep replacing stuff hoping to fix it somewhere along the line. But if you think I should replace the 02 sensor, I will.

View attachment 1950722

Looks like 11 oclock to me!

When I did the timing chain on my 20R I set it to TDC. I've just read that the 22RE does require it to be at 5° BTDC. I think it looks really close isn't off enough to really cause any issues. If you're worried about it, you can follow the following instructions on how to reset it, but I think you're fine.

Install with engine at TDC for a 22R or 5° BTDC for a 22RE/REC/RETSet the distributor at the 12 o-clock position
Upon insertion, it'll turn ~35° CCW and the timing will be close

And HEY! My 100th post!! I need to get a life...

 

[HawkGunner]

Looks like 11 oclock to me!

When I did the timing chain on my 20R I set it to TDC. I've just read that the 22RE does require it to be at 5° BTDC. I think it looks really close isn't off enough to really cause any issues. If you're worried about it, you can follow the following instructions on how to reset it, but I think you're fine.

Install with engine at TDC for a 22R or 5° BTDC for a 22RE/REC/RETSet the distributor at the 12 o-clock position
Upon insertion, it'll turn ~35° CCW and the timing will be close

And HEY! My 100th post!! I need to get a life...

It's not that I'm worried about it, so much as I just don't know what else to do Haha! I'll reset the dizzy because I've got it apart and the engine set properly. Might as well, maybe I screwed it up the first time. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[pappy]

No.1 cylinder set to TDC and this is the position of my dizzy. I haven't moved it. Does it look right to you?

Also, the FSM says to set to TDC, and then adjust the notch on the crankshaft pulley to the 5° or 10° or something like that. Should I just leave it at TDC and go from there? Or follow the instructions in the FSM?

My first thought is that looks right.

I didn't start out by throwing parts at it... but then I got desperate haha.

I honestly don't want to just keep replacing stuff hoping to fix it somewhere along the line. But if you think I should replace the 02 sensor, I will.

Many of your issues can be caused by the Ox sensor. Make sure it's hooked up, and nothing is wrong with the wiring. I've actually sold boneyard connectors to folks that needed to replace their connector due to melted wires.

 

[HawkGunner]

Is it running rich? Another idea would be the cold start injector leaking and adding more fuel into the intake. That would make for running rich and fouling plugs.

Plugs are clean. They show "normal" discoloration. No oil either.

 

[HawkGunner]

Ok. Last things.
Tps setting. Disregard the fsm instructions. Set as follows. Check between idl and ground. With blade closed there should be continuity. The circuit should go open as soon as you crack the blade. Adjust as necessary.

When i drive REs generally stock timing feels doggy to me. I go a touch advanced.

For shyts make sure your cable isn't hanging up too.


When its cold see if you can nail down the rough idle to a single cylinder. I had a bad injector make a fool out of me once.

Can you explain your TPS adjustment technique? I got the engine running smoothly now, but the engine bogs down when I blip the throttle real quick. If I roll the throttle slowly and smoothly, the engine accelerates smoothly.

 

[gnob]

On the TPS there is the IDL term and the E1 ground term. This circuit is simple on/off telling the ECU the throttle is closed and vehicle is idling.
Car off and TPS unplugged. You sample tge TPS IDL with one lead and E1 with the other.
With the blade fully closed, the switch will be closed(showing continuity)
As you immediately crack the throttle, the circuit should go open(no continuity)
When it does this, tighten set screws.

It wouldn't hurt while you are there to actually check the 5V and actual sweep of the TPS.