anyone here use an fj80 booster and MC in an fj40?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

you measure them. Aquire and read a FSM....it explains it all
 
Hmm i have the haynes manual. is that close enough to the "FSM" you mentioned?

I've got a booster from a 90's 4runner (cheaper by $100) and 1991 fj80 MC. Both new/rebuilt.

my plan is this (please tell me if seems reasonable)

1-- Put on new booster. Assuming pedal height is as previous, i'm good. Looks like there's a nut on the end of the booster rod that will allow adjustment. If the nut allows adjustment, it would seem unlikely to have to cut the rod length (?)
 
sometimes one has to cut the rod if not enough adjustment is available and/or space the booster away form the firewall. I had to do both.

The pushrod clearance needs to be verified and adjusted if not in spec. If the clearance to large, the pedal with travel excessively leaving little stroke for the actuation of MC piston/brakes. Clearance to small, brakes will bind, tighten as the fluid heats up and overheat.

The Haynes manuals are better than nothing but usually not much more. You need to educate yourself somehow. I see the most straightforward and objective method as acquiring and reading a good manual, the FSM. Don't you want the best source of information? It's only your brakes!!!
 
OK dudes and dudettes,

as an addendum..

I bought the 4runner Booster, it was $100 cheaper. It did bolt straight in no problems. I had to use a small nut as a spacer to clear my clutch MC. It turned out to be 8mmx1.25 pitch i believe.

I used the 1991 FJ80 MC, and it also bolted straight in.

I have zero braking right now, which i attribute to air in the lines.

QUESTION!

There is NO check valve on the new booster! I removed the old one from my stock FJ40 1975 (4 wheel drums) when i took out the original booster.

Should i figure out how to finagle one into the vacuum line? the original booster had the check valve actually pushed INTO the body of the booster.. this one has a metal nozzle for the attachment of the vacuum line instead.
 
you will need to put one inline like the FJ60's. Adjust your pedal, pushrod and start pumping. If your MC is new, you will need to bench bleed it first.

88FJ60boster2a.webp
88FJ60boster2a.webp
 
thanks! your info has been very helpful with this endeavor. I've got (i believe) the pedal height exactly as it used to be.

Any suggestions on where (part # or description??) to get the appropriate check valve? Or just "any" check valve will work?

gerry
 
I understand the above pic to be an 88 FJ60. I would start there. Post up in wanted section.
 
i took the pussy way out.. just drove to my local shop i use for my TLC work at 10 mph using my ebrake for stopping (!!). Dropped it off to have them bleed the MC and lines, and put in a valve.

I knew i'd have to have them do it anyways (bleeding), in the interest of time. So i just asked them to put the check valve in as well.

Thanks again for your help. the pics were very helpful.
 
I am purchasing a master cylinder and booster from a 1994 FJ80 with ABS. What issues will this create if it has ABS?
 
I am purchasing a master cylinder and booster from a 1994 FJ80 with ABS. What issues will this create if it has ABS?

unfortunately, i can't answer your question. I am certain the BOOSTER will not matter.

The MC, however, will be an issue. Why, I am not certain.. what I AM certain of, is that everyone i asked specifically told me to NOT use the ABS MC.

I bought a NEW 1991 MC for something like $100 from napa. Just something to consider, since brakes are somewhat important... at least to me..

As a final addendum to my story here, for those that come after me in the same endeavor..

Booster bolted straight in, no problem, no worries. I spaced it slightly forward to clear my clutch MC.

MC also bolted straight in, no problem, no worries. I ended up spacing the MC forward with a small (maybe 1/8") washer on all 4 bolts to eliminate the rear calipers from dragging.

I use TWO wilwood proportioning valves to eliminate the rears from locking up prior to the fronts.

I used an OEM toyota check valve (supposedly from an fj60... looks suspiciously like the one i already had in my 1975 fj40) for the brake booster. Now i've found an online source that gave me a FREE brand new 3/8 inlet 3/8 outlet check valve, so i'll swap that in place of the OEM valve. The OEM valve has a large inlet, small outlet, so i've had to engineer an adapter to enlarge my 3/8 hose to 3/4 or whatever it is with the OEM valve. much easier to just find a 3/8 by 3/8 check valve.

pics by djdangle and advice from pinhead exceptionally well appreciated guys.

and btw, the truck pedal effort for kick ass stopping power is no more than my acura at this point!
 
  • Like
Reactions: SMG
I ended up buying an ABS master cylinder today at Spalding Auto Parts. It is off a 1996 FJ80, All Wheel Disc, w/ ABS. It is an AISIN which I thought was a little strange. Does anyone know if this is aftermarket? I still have not found the true reason why an ABS MC doesn't work. The actual ABS is a completly different set-up seperate from the MC. The only difference that I could see, is that the ABS has an electrical hook up.

I am going to first try and use my original 1978 booster to avoid the clearance issues with the clutch master. If it doesn't work I can always modify to the FJ80 booster.
 
I am purchasing a master cylinder and booster from a 1994 FJ80 with ABS. What issues will this create if it has ABS?

I realize this is well after the posts about the use of an ABS MC. Individuals that say you cannot use an ABS MC are incorrect in that assumption. I'm not sure why people think you cannot use a MC meant for an ABS system. It functions like any other MC. There just happens to be an ABS controller between the MC and the brakes that pulses the brake line pressure to any wheel when a lack of wheel rotation is sensed during braking. I will say that I do not know if there is a difference in the diameter of the MC piston between an ABS and non-ABS MC.

If you look at the photo in my earlier post you will see a MC for an ABS equipped 80 series LandCruiser. It was installed on the original '78 BB with no modifications required. This setup has been in use for what has to be close to ten years with no issues. It was purchased from JT Outfitters. I installed it after doing a rear disk conversion with Monte Carlo hardware.
 
Had to bring back an old thread......

Gonna try and cram this 97 fzj80 booster into my 75ish? firewall on my 69 cruiser.....lol

[URL=http://s818.photobucket.com/user/charlesk11charles/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151102_215835_zpszxrzgibm.jpg.html][/URL]

This is whats on there now, I got it with the tub so i dont really know if its the right one or what its from...


[URL=http://s818.photobucket.com/user/charlesk11charles/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151102_221101_zps0tpvpt1c.jpg.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s818.photobucket.com/user/charlesk11charles/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151103_105558_zpsskiccocj.jpg.html][/URL]

Taking some rough measurements, it looks like the 80 booster is roughly the same thickness (firewall to master) as the one thats in there but the booster has a larger diameter. Im worried it will hit the ribs on the firewall which you can see in one of the pics. It may also interfere with one clutch master bolt and e brake cable stop bolt.

Took some really rough measurements and the old booster has a 27 " circumference and looks to be about 8 1/2" - 8 3/4" in diameter. The 80 booster has a 30 1/2" circ. and measures roughly 9 3/4" diameter. Im not a math wizard but im thinkin it may fit since its only a half inch closer to all the junk around it.

Regardless, i wanna be ready and have a spacer made up for it before i try and throw it in just in case since a few people said they needed it. How thick is the spacer that was used? Im planning to use 1/2" thick uhmw plastic to make the spacer and can make shims as needed.

Also, the 80 series booster looks to have a check valve in it already but in this post theres mention that they dont come with one. The one on mine looks to be a steel version of the plastic check valve on the other booster. When i depress the plunger i hear a hiss of air escaping the nipple but no air is sucked back in when the plunger is released. Thats how it works right lol? Im also assuming its a valve because the 90s 4runner booster i put in the fj60 just had a nipple press fit to the body of the booster, doesnt swivel at all..

Thanks in advance guys.

D
 
Made a quick little 1/2" spacer today to go between the booster and firewall just in case I end up needing it. Also took some more measurements and the prognosis is still positive. Might need to massage the firewall ribs a tad in one or two spots but that isnt a big deal.

Should get around to trying to bolt it up this weekend if nothin else comes up.

D
 
I've got a July 74 Fj40. I had the same booster and have installed a booster and master out of a 94 diesel JDM 80. You'll need the spacer, one bolt on the clutch master will be covered, a couple minor brake line tweaks, and no changes to the fire wall rib.

Mine work extremely we'll... Once I've installed power steering (instead of on the shelf), your grandma could drive it... Does her pacemaker work well? :D
 
Fj62 booster will work also

You can also use a fj62 brake booster. just have to mount is upside down. I have been runnin one of these in my 71 fj40 for 3 years now. I used the fj62 master also.

I have a master and booster for sale if you need them. from a 1988 fj62. I think i also still have a fj80 master from a 1991 none abs.

Have a good one
Brian

What size bore is the 62 MC? Is the 80 MC for disc/drum? or disc/disc? What size is the 80 bore?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom