Another Timing belt thread. (1 Viewer)

[Balto1223]

I’ve got a Toyota dealership quoting me around $1,200 parts and labor to replace crank seal, timing belt and water pump. 2006 LX 470. Does this sound right?

How will I be able to tell they did all this work?

I’m sure this question has been asked a lot, I apologize for the noobieness. ThNks guys.

 

[outdoorsman]

I believe $950 is what I have been quoted a couple of times by Toyota dealerships in North Texas.

I always do it myself and save a bundle even replacing a lot more parts like the fan bracket, fan clutch, came seals, hoses,pulleys, ....

A lot depends on the mileage 90k vs. 180k on how many parts might need to be replaced.

 

[Balto1223]

I believe $950 is what I have been quoted a couple of times by Toyota dealerships in North Texas.

I always do it myself and save a bundle even replacing a lot more parts like the fan bracket, fan clutch, came seals, hoses,pulleys, ....

A lot depends on the mileage 90k vs. 180k on how many parts might need to be replaced.

Yeah but when you do it yourself, how do you get by without the piece of mind of having a warranty on the parts and work done?? I’m confident of my own abilities, but what if the belt fails somehow? Youre out at least seven grand!?

That quote was just for timing belt, water pump and crank seal replacement and labor.

 

[2002TLCyes]

I thought the land cruiser engine is non-interference, so the failed belt would just leave you stranded, but won't damage the engine.

 

[2001LC]

First off the the 2UZ-fe VVT engine MFD dates 05.2005 - 2007, is by all accounts and interference engine.

Cam seals on the VVTi are a bigger deal to replace than on the none VVT engine. I see PO only listed crank seal.

Two ways to know if they do/did all the work. Go into shop and watch. Ask for old parts and that they be placed in the packages new came from. But really if a good Toyota Dealer they'll do the work.

Understand the mechanic nore the shop, is responsible for defective parts. They will not cover engine failure or labor in event of a parts failure (i.e. belt, pulleys, tensioner, W. pump). They are responsible for poor workmanship, errors or negligence.

Doing it correctly depends on which mechanic you get. Get to know your mechanic, buy him a lunch when you find a good one.

 

[geanes]

@2001LC ... do you know if my 98 LX is a non-interference motor. I've heard conflicting opinions on this.

Also, I'm about to have the 180k service done and was planning on the TB/WP only (buying the Aisin kit off Amazon for $170). My plugs are in great shape as are the coils (confirmed when I did the valve cover gaskets last month). Do you suggest doing the cam and crank seals as well? What about the fan bracket? Rather pay once and have peace of mind.

 

[suprarx7nut]

Yeah but when you do it yourself, how do you get by without the piece of mind of having a warranty on the parts and work done?? I’m confident of my own abilities, but what if the belt fails somehow? Youre out at least seven grand!?

That quote was just for timing belt, water pump and crank seal replacement and labor.

Something I think many people forget is that the tech, even at a dealership, is just a guy working a job. A job, in this case, that has many, many gradations of quality and attention to detail. Many mechanics are not enthusiasts in any way, shape or form. I worked at a Toyota dealer for a summer. The master mechanic and a few others were top notch. I'd trust my life to their work. Most others were a bit of a wake up call for me in the auto industry.

If you have a *mostly* full set of tools and a garage with some space you can take your time and address the job more fully and completely than your average dealership will.

If you want to have a shop do it, that's great too, but I wouldn't sweat a few hundred bucks near as much as I would finding the right shop/mechanic to do it.

On my rig at ~250k miles I needed far more than just the timing belt kit parts. A low-priced shop might just have slapped on the timing belt parts and skipped the rest. Had one of those bearings failed on the road, my tow bill and inconvenience would have been worth far more than the added cost of doing the T-belt job thoroughly.

That's my .02 anyways! Good luck!

 

[2001LC]

@2001LC ... do you know if my 98 LX is a non-interference motor. I've heard conflicting opinions on this.

Also, I'm about to have the 180k service done and was planning on the TB/WP only (buying the Aisin kit off Amazon for $170). My plugs are in great shape as are the coils (confirmed when I did the valve cover gaskets last month). Do you suggest doing the cam and crank seals as well? What about the fan bracket? Rather pay once and have peace of mind.

98 - April 2005 2UZ-fe engine in the 100 series are non VVT-i engines. In mud, it's believe these to be non interference engines. Although there have been a few reports of a belt breaking taking out a non VVT engine, but they were not verified they just assumed.

I do not replace seals unless they're leaking. Which I've not seen one leak yet, as Toyota uses great rubber. If they or rear main seals did start leaking in between T-belt jobs, I'd use AT-205 re-seal first. Which I've yet to do either. That said, it's cheaper to replace "while in there" if you don't do yourself.

At 180K with original factory fan bracket I would replace.
It's difficult to call this as a leak, but as lubricant leaks out of bearing seal it gathers driver belt dust. Some you can tell if bad just by spinning, or by side to side play.

This could be early sign of bearing seal failure.

 

[abuck99]

Yeah but when you do it yourself, how do you get by without the piece of mind of having a warranty on the parts and work done?? I’m confident of my own abilities, but what if the belt fails somehow? Youre out at least seven grand!?

That quote was just for timing belt, water pump and crank seal replacement and labor.

If you dont trust your ability to do the job, or dont have the space or time definitely have a shop do it. But theres no gurantee the dealer tech doing the work will follow fsm process, and they will surely expedite the work to beat flat rate. Sometimes things get overlooked or shortcuts taken. This is why I like to do my own service work, following the fsm, taking time to inspect and replace interrelated parts as necessary, and properly torque fasteners, etc.

Fyi-Parts purchased from the dealer over the counter will have warranty.

 

[2002TLCyes]

98- April 2005 2UZ-fe engine in the 100 series are non VVT-i engines. In mud, it's believe these to be non interference engines. Although there have been a few reports of a belt breaking taking out a non VVT engine, they were not verified they just assumed. All that did just put on new belt were fine.

I do not replace seals unless they're leaking. Which I've not seen, as Toyota uses great rubber. If they or rear main seals did start leaking in between T-belt jobs, I'd use AT-205 re-seal first. Which I've yet to do. That said, it's cheaper to replace "while in there" if you don't do yourself.

At 180K with original factory fan bracket I would replace. It's difficult to call this as a leak, but as lubricant leaks out of bearing seal it gathers driver belt dust. Others are very apparently bad, just by spinning with fan off or side play.

This could be early sign of bearing seal failure.
View attachment 1659081

2001LC, I'm confused. How do I know if I have a VVT engine? I have a land cruiser that was manufactured in 06/2002.

 

[geanes]

VVTI I think started in '03 or '04

 

[WiscoProud]

The VVT-i engines were used on the 06-07 model years. 98-05 were non-VVT-i

 

[2002TLCyes]

OOOH! Ok, what a relief. So my 2002, is non VVT-i, and therefore a non-interference engine, and therefore not in great danger of timing belt damaging engine. Correct?

 

[4Beast]

I just paid $1200 for a private shop to do it, which was the same as the dealer charged. Worth it for me to go to a shop that does good work, who I trust. It's essentially an investment in the truck and them. They changed pretty much everything under the sun too, tensioners, water pump, pulleys etc, and used the correct fluid.

 

[Hokie LX]

OP, I did my TB myself and ordered just about every part to replace "while I was in there" and my parts total was ~$750 including new cooling system, all new hoses, WP, all new seals, PCV, heater T's and hoses, pulleys/tensioners, etc...

Also, WiscoProud is correct, VVTi did not get used until 2006 in the US.

_____________________________________________________________________
FWIW I just found this article by Jalopnik the other day on interference engines. In every source they list, the Toyota/Lexus 4.7L is listed as an interference motor. Given I have never taken mine apart or tested this myself, I can't know 100% but every source I've found (including the article below as well as others and not including forums) lists it as interference. Not sure if there's a difference between non-VVTi and VVTi but there has been endless debates on it. Food for thought. Either way, I wouldn't negate doing a timing belt because of a "it's not an interference motor, so I can wait" train of thought.

https://jalopnik.com/heres-what-interference-engines-are-and-why-they-exist-1823935549

AGCO Automotive Repair Service - Baton Rouge, LA - List Of Interference Engines
Know your engines: Interference and non – interference engines
List of Cars with Interference Motors
Interference Engines - The Complete List - Your Car Angel

 

[joseywales]

OOOH! Ok, what a relief. So my 2002, is non VVT-i, and therefore a non-interference engine, and therefore not in great danger of timing belt damaging engine. Correct?

You’re only in danger of coming to a stop wherever you are when the belt lets go. Shouldn’t be a big problem unless it’s while you are gunning it onto the freeway in front of a speeding semi truck laden with bridge parts.

 

[97 AZ LC]

FWIW I just found this article by Jalopnik the other day on interference engines. In every source they list, the Toyota/Lexus 4.7L is listed as an interference motor. Given I have never taken mine apart or tested this myself, I can't know 100% but every source I've found (including the article below as well as others and not including forums) lists it as interference. Not sure if there's a difference between non-VVTi and VVTi but there has been endless debates on it. Food for thought. Either way, I wouldn't negate doing a timing belt because of a "it's not an interference motor, so I can wait" train of thought.

https://jalopnik.com/heres-what-interference-engines-are-and-why-they-exist-1823935549

AGCO Automotive Repair Service - Baton Rouge, LA - List Of Interference Engines
Know your engines: Interference and non – interference engines
List of Cars with Interference Motors
Interference Engines - The Complete List - Your Car Angel

Those lists are likely coming from the same source, the manufacturers, including Toyota who has always labeled it an interference engine, perhaps merely in an abundance of caution. But the real world experience seems to suggest that it (non-VVT) isn't "interfering" much if at all. I wonder what the 4Runner and Tundra forums think about it.

 

[Balto1223]

I got the crank seal, timing belt and water pump replaced at a Toyota Dealership today. Got away with $1100. These pics are of my old timing belt @ 111,000 miles. It almost looks as if it was replaced before... still glad I got it replaced, better safe than sorry.

 

[outdoorsman]

Great news

Now you are good for another 90k