Another Luke Bumper (Kit) (1 Viewer)

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In response to previous posts about the spare and all that; I went with this bumper for protection and its low profile. I'm not planning to mount anything on it. That's the cool thing about the kit, you can do it how you want. The spare, whenever I carry it, is going on an interior mount.

Now, progress:

Got the crossmember and recovery points welded in. Bout to have to head back for my work week, so the project is going to be on hiold for a few days.

Crossmember.jpg

Recovery.jpg
 
Very nice job, especially with flux core. It looks like you are doing a beautiful and careful install.

I am hoping Luke will soon release the 60 series rear bumper kit. He has the plan in the works for you 60 series guys out there. He has a lot going on right now so I'm not holding my breath, but I am crossing my fingers.
 
$495 for basic kit/ no swingouts. Figure another $100 for shipping as the combined shipping weight was around 150lbs.


Mine hit a touch over $1500 with shipping if I recall for the whole kit.

When you say $1500 for the whole kit are you meaning an entire assembled kit or a DIY like this one? This is by far my favorite bumper, I'd like to add one to mine down the road once my LX is not a daily driver anymore.

Nice work on the install/assembly.
 
When you say $1500 for the whole kit are you meaning an entire assembled kit or a DIY like this one? This is by far my favorite bumper, I'd like to add one to mine down the road once my LX is not a daily driver anymore.

Nice work on the install/assembly.

That's DIY kit form like in this thread. If you call them they will send you a pricing list. I'm thinking the finished bumper is over $2000 if you want dual swing outs and powder coated. I think you can get close to $2500 with some extra options. I figured I just about paid for my welder by building it myself. But then i didn't really need a welder or another aftermarket bumper anyway as the one I had was fine!!
 
I've looked at this kit as well. :popcorn:
 
When the frame rails are trimmed, are the factory hitch mounting holes/ captured nuts cut off? If they are removed, do you know what the receiver Lukes bumper is rated for? With the raised location of the receiver I'd be concerned about the additional stress of a drop hitch when towing close to 5K Lbs.
 
It's not rated for towing and the stock type receiver hitch will not fit. That said, the bumper one is very stout.
 
I've built 3 of these now. Great bumpers and easy kit to DIY. All 3 that I built had dual swingouts.

I've towed an Adventure Trailer fully loaded appx 2k pounds, all over the southwest.
I've also towed a utility trailer with 20 sheets of siding and 8 sheets of 1/2 drywall across town without issue. It's stout bumper.
I modified all of them slightly to make the crossmember stouter. I also added extra gussetts to the clover that holds the spare and to the arm that holds the spare. I also drilled into the recovery points from the back side and then rosette welded them in.
 
Spent 8 hours today working on mine and it's looking nice. I'm changing the latch system so that I don't have to use both swing arms in order to close it.

Any pictures of how to put the Hi-lift holder on the back of the tire holder?

Any ideas on how to mount the plate to the tire holder? I'm not going to use the can holder much if I can help it.
 
Curious what the overall difference is in rear departure angle? Considering the bumper has to come out far enough for spindles, how does it compare to the stock rear crossmember as far as clearance goes?
 
Curious what the overall difference is in rear departure angle? Considering the bumper has to come out far enough for spindles, how does it compare to the stock rear crossmember as far as clearance goes?

It's significant, not so much from the length, the top edge sticks out almost as far as the stock crossmember and this is good from a backing into something point. Mostly from the shape, the bumper angles bring the contact point up, increasing the departure angle. IIRC the corners are ~5" higher than the stock tupperware on my LX. The biggest difference is, the strength and shape allow contact without hanging or damage, it easily slides onto and off of what it comes in contact with.

A bumper with square corners/edges or tube will catch in terrain, cracks, between rocks, etc. This design with big flat areas, angled so the are relatively level with the ground when the rig is stood up, is much more difficult to get hung. I have yet to hang one, have gotten several of the square corner design bumpers hung, especially when backing down to reset or take another line.
 
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Got the crossmember and recovery points welded in. Bout to have to head back for my work week, so the project is going to be on hiold for a few days.

Are you welding inside as well as out? The long wing to shell welds take the most beating so welded the from both sides, also what I could reach on the receiver and recovery points.
 
Are you welding inside as well as out? The long wing to shell welds take the most beating so welded the from both sides, also what I could reach on the receiver and recovery points.

Inside and out as much as possible. Got the long weld covered well but the small vertical portion of the side piece is proving to be a bitch to get to inside, (where top of shell meets side piece). Were you able to get in there? Recovery and receiver are in solid, just need to rig up some gussets as they were missing from my kit.

I think the only reason the hitch isn't "rated" for towing is for liability purposes. I don't see it being inferior to the factory tow hitch personally.
 
When the frame rails are trimmed, are the factory hitch mounting holes/ captured nuts cut off? If they are removed, do you know what the receiver Lukes bumper is rated for? With the raised location of the receiver I'd be concerned about the additional stress of a drop hitch when towing close to 5K Lbs.

By the looks of your avatar your ass is too small:flipoff2:

good question tho'
 
Inside and out as much as possible. Got the long weld covered well but the small vertical portion of the side piece is proving to be a bitch to get to inside, (where top of shell meets side piece). Were you able to get in there? Recovery and receiver are in solid, just need to rig up some gussets as they were missing from my kit.
...

I welded inside where I could see, get to, about like it sounds like you did.
 
Progress

Been brainstorming on what to do about the tight fit of the side pieces on the LX.

Soloution: Decided to cut (not all the way through) the side pieces along the top and then bend them outward. Without this step there was little hope of utilizing the top tube that finishes out the sides. It also brings them out further to blend a little better with the factory flares.

Slice.jpg

Profile.jpg


TopWing.jpg


Also, another option I was considering but think I have decided against; What do You think?

Option.jpg
 
I like the single tube myself. I was actually not going to even use the tubes on mine.
 
I like the additional tube. You could angle it out a bit so that you can get a foot on there and use it as a step to get at the roof.

The real question is what do the police think? :hmm: (pic 2)
 
I like the additional tube. You could angle it out a bit so that you can get a foot on there and use it as a step to get at the roof.

The real question is what do the police think? :hmm: (pic 2)

Police? I'm a Tulsa Police Officer so that's not really a concern. Why might they care though? Just curious.
 
I was just commenting in a roundabout way on the police car you can see in the second picture. Makes sense now!
 

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