Another 4-Speed Conversion Project (5 Viewers)

[Green Bean]

The vehicle is a 19700 40 series with the original F motor, floor shift 3-speed and vacuum operated T-Case. All were working fine BEFORE starting this project. A huge shoutout to Georg (@orangefj45) and his fantastic crew at Valley Hybrids for their patience in answering all of my questions and setting me up.

Everything arrived nicely secured on a pallet.

As a one-man operation, I resorted to using the engine hoist to safely unload.

Next, I turned my attention to the cabin removing the front passenger seat and fuel tank. I was pleasantly surprised that the floor pan under the tank appears to be in good shape. Unfortunately, though, no stash of cash was found.

 

[Green Bean]

Next, tunnel cover was removed. I left both the front and rear heaters for now. Hopefully, I won't need to drain the coolant.

Thank you Valley Hybrids!

 

[orangefj45]

Thanks again for asking us to be part of your project!!!!!

Looking forward to updates and the finished upgrade.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids @ Cruiser Brothers

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Nice….Did you go with a three speed trans case converted to a four speed?

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Right behind you on this! I am ordering my 4speed parts today to rebuild my transmission. its already in a bunch of pieces laid out on the floor haha. I am going to reuse my 3 speed case for the lower low range. I hate to say I might be going with the floor shift parts till I can afford the 4speed column shift. I am hoping to keep my vacuum shift too. a part I got from you!

 

[Green Bean]

Today's progress report:
Began by disconnecting parking brake cable at firewall and coiling cable. Then went on to removing driveshafts, disconnecting vacuum lines to 4WD actuator, disconnecting 4WD and reverse switches. Then drained transmission and T-Case.
Next, loosened the 4 bolts holding the transmission to the bellhousing; positioned engine hoist through passenger door opening. Separated the transmission but ran into a bit of difficulty getting it to fully disengage. Finally, got it but the old pilot bearing got sacrificed in the process.

Old 3-speed next to new 4-speed.

Then went on to remove the pressure plate/clutch assembly and the clutch fork. Note remnants of pilot bearing.

Next, I turned my attention toward cleaning up and painting the bellhousing and inspection cover.

 

[Green Bean]

Just had time to spray a coat of Steel-it before knocking off for the day.

 

[Green Bean]

Nice….Did you go with a three speed trans case converted to a four speed?

Thanks! Yes, I retained the 3-speed T-case and the vacuum actuated 4WD. Hopefully, there will be minimal tunnel cover modifications.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Well played.

That gets you a little lower 1st gear. I almost/should have done it with the new Trans on the Mule.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Is it 5 O’clock in Texas already…??? What would Jimmy Buffett say?

Hitting it out of the Park already.!!!

knocking off for the day.

 

[red66toy]

Woot woot! Excited for this!

 

[Green Bean]

Thanks to @red66toy for some “on-the-job coaching”. Removed starter then placed floor jack with wood block underneath rearward end of oil pan. Removed hi/lo shift linkage on passenger side and clutch slave cylinder on driver side before turning attention to the bellhousing. First removed all of the inner bolts attaching the bellhousing to the motor (leaving the 2 top bolts outside that are accessible from inside the vehicle). Next I removed the bolts attaching the bellhousing to the motor mounts. Lastly, I removed the last 2 bolts from inside the cabin and lowered the bellhousing to the ground.
Because the pilot bearing was toast, I was deprived of the opportunity to use the “bread technique” A bearing puller on a slide hammer made quick work of removing the otter race.
Next up is to install 4-speed bellhousing then focus on dropping the oil pan to replace RMS.

 

[Mark Jennings]

Hi Green Been, great write up. I’m not sure you need to remove the oil pan for the main seal, the last one I did I think we just tapped a couple of sheet metal screws in the old one and used vice grips to pull it out???? Then used like a 2x2 to get the new one seated….anyway, great job.

 

[Living in the Past]

I am curious how the vacuum diaphragm fits three and half inches further back. I went with a manual T case shifter when I did this to my 68. But I also used a later transmission cover that was made for a four speed that was work with the vacuum shift. What changed is the high low shifter moved cover and no longer under the dash.

 

[Skreddy]

I am curious how the vacuum diaphragm fits three and half inches further back. I went with a manual T case shifter when I did this to my 68. But I also used a later transmission cover that was made for a four speed that was work with the vacuum shift. What changed is the high low shifter moved cover and no longer under the dash.

Fits fine. I had no issues with the diaphragm when I did this same swap.

 

[franklin40]

you’ve got done in three days what took me about 2 months to do when i did mine. nice work. i guess you did have valley hybrids setting you up so you’d have everything you need up front. i have some adapter problems (mine was behind a poorly done 350) so i had to source a bell housing etc. i do like the 4 speed better because of the syncros. just easier to city drive.

i did get to try to bread trick and believe it or not it does work!!

keep the photos rolling.

 

[Green Bean]

Today was a bit of a challenge. Throughout this project, I've been waiting for the catastrophe to happen that would derail things. During the install of the 4-speed bellhousing, everything was going fine...until it wasn't. The bellhousing was in and I was just going to snug up the bolts a bit, particularly the upper left because it looked like there was a bit of a gap between the top of the bellhousing and the engine block. That's when the bolt snapped. Everyone knows that sickening sound. That was about a 2 hour delay. Had to remove the bellhousing. Fortunately, the broken bolt was in a location where I was able to slowly drill it with progressively larger bits until finally it succumbed with an Easyout. Eventually, got the bellhousing back on and attached the housing to the rear motor mounts and removed the floor jack before calling it a night. Tomorrow, I need to torque the bellhousing bolts to 47 foot pounds and then I hope to tackle the dreaded oil pan and RMS.

 

[Green Bean]

I am curious how the vacuum diaphragm fits three and half inches further back. I went with a manual T case shifter when I did this to my 68. But I also used a later transmission cover that was made for a four speed that was work with the vacuum shift. What changed is the high low shifter moved cover and no longer under the dash.

I will keep you posted on fitment issues. I'm hoping that as @Skreddy posted above that my existing tunnel cover will fit. I've read where shimming the front motor mounts may help provide some clearance. We will see.

 

[Skreddy]

I will keep you posted on fitment issues. I'm hoping that as @Skreddy posted above that my existing tunnel cover will fit. I've read where shimming the front motor mounts may help provide some clearance. We will see.

My tunnel didn’t fit but I did the 4 on the tree conversion. Are you going that route or with a normal shifter?

 

[Living in the Past]

I will keep you posted on fitment issues. I'm hoping that as @Skreddy posted above that my existing tunnel cover will fit. I've read where shimming the front motor mounts may help provide some clearance. We will see.

I did fender washers on the front motor mounts mine. Wasn't for the tunnel cover but for more clearance at the back of the transmission opening. My 68 did not have a fan shroud. I know have a shroud or two and will install it next time I pull the transmission. Since I didn't cut the torque tube behind the transfer case and need to lower the back to pull the transmission or remove the motor/transmission/transfer case as one unit.