Another 1HZ DIY turbo conversion.... ALL DIY not a kit... (1 Viewer)

[Pasechnik]

After reading a bunch of posts all over the web and especially here I decided to start my own conversion thread.

Here is what I have:
1. 2008 Land Cruiser 70 series.
2. Mileage is about 40k kms.
3. Engine 1HZ no EGR from the factory.
4. High altitude compensator.

My goal is to have more power that won't kill reliability.

I already bought:
1. Auberins gauges for pyrometer, boost and AFR
2. ECOTRONS wide band O2 sensor controller for reading high diesel AFRs
3. Bosch 17025 wide band O2 sensor to read high diesel AFRs
4. Intercooler 28"x9"x2,5"
5. 2 electric fans 9" for intercooler
6. Stainless exhaust 2.5" with SS flex.
7. Vibrant 1141 2.5" Ultra Quiet Resonator
8. 2" aluminum intercooler piping
9. HOLSET HE221W Turbocharger 6.5CM exhaust port

I am still thinking about boost compensator and will add it if really needed.

 

[Pasechnik]

I am still waiting for some parts to arrive and as soon as I get them all I will start to have some fun!

 

[Pasechnik]

While I am still waiting for some parts to arrive I will share my thoughts and I hope to get some ideas and constructive criticism. I know we all know it is a bad idea to turbo charge 1HZ but many 1HZ turbocharged successfully and keep turning their wheels for hundreds of thousands kilometers.

As many said before 1HZ is a tough bugger and will run forever with basic maintenance but wrong installed turbo can kill it really quick. The main danger when turboing it is heat from combustion. Having too much air is not a problem for diesel engine. Too lean mixture will have low power and low burning temperature low exhaust pressure and simply do nothing dangerous. But rich mixture will burn hot and also create a lot of exhaust pressure and as a result more boost pressure and if more fuel is added again it will keep burning hotter and hotter until we have burned out pistons...

Here we have first dilemma in order to keep it all under control we need to have some sort of monitoring system. As this engine is all mechanical we can't just connect OBD scanner and see what is happening.

Not a big deal we can add O2 sensor and get reading from the monitor and see what actual AFR is right now right with this load... Not so easy... Narrow band O2 sensors are useless in our case and even wide band O2 sensors monitors are only showing high AFR 20 or some 22. This is ok for gas engines as AFR 22 for gas engine is way too high and mixture is way too lean.

For diesel engine we can see AFR 20 and even 30 and even 80.... Diesel engine will run with no problem at such a high AFR.

This is why we can't just buy even $200 AFR monitor kit and call it a good monitoring tool in our case. I decided to put AFR monitoring system using different components and they are:

1. Bosch 17025 wide band O2 sensor LSU 4.9 Lambda
2. Ecotrons wideband controller ALM-Board Wideband Controller ALM-board | ECOTRONS
This controller is using Bosch CJ125 chip specifically designed to work with Bosch 17025 O2 sensor.
3. Auberins digital automobile gauge SYL-1813R. It can be connected witg O2 controller and adjusted to show different parameters.

Any ideas are welcome.

 

[Pasechnik]

Right now I am getting some replies from Auberins and Ecotrons. I tried to find some solid and easy to understand info about how to build AFR monitor capable to read high AFRs but only found bits and pieces here and there. I want to compile the info in 1 place, so anyone will have exact step by step instructions what to buy and how to make it.

 

[Pasechnik]

I got replies from both Auberins and Ecotrons. Both companies seems like easy going with good customer service.

The answer from Auberins:

"Thanks for contacting us. Our SYL-1813 gauge can read 0-5V signal. Then you can use the parameter PuL and PuH to set up what values (AFR in this case) are corresponding to 0V and 5V respectively. Then, the gauge will convert the voltage signal linearly to AFR values. In this case, it looks like the ALM board will read from the LSU 4.9 O2 sensor and supply a 0-5V analog output signal. So it is the ALM board that should be connected to SYL-1813. Please double check what AFR values correspond to 0V and what is for 5V."

So, the gauge is able to read values from 0V to 5V. The display value can be set by PuL and PuH parameters. We can see Lambda value or AFR whatever we prefer.

The answer from Ecotrons was in a few emails, so I will sum it up:

Ecotrons O2 sensor controller is fully programmable. It can control Bosch LSU 4.2 or 4.9 sensors. The 4.9 sensor is much better but more expensive. There is even better diesel specific sensor Bosch LSU ADV but I already bought LSU 4.9. The controller takes care of supplying correct current to O2 sensor and getting the signal and making it usable by ECU or monitor etc. The controller working with Bosch LSU 4.9 is capable to "read" Lambda value from 0.5 to Lambda 16!!! Using Lambda 1 value for diesel fuel = 14.6 AFR we can measure AFR from 7.3 to AFR 233. This is much better than AFR 20-23 which is standard value for most AFR monitors.

The default Lambda range is set 0.5 to 2 (7.3 AFR to 29.2 AFR for diesel engine) and we need to use RS232 to TTL adapter to change it's upper value to Lambda 5 or 6. I already have one I bought at Amazon for my Arduino projects:

Amazon product ASIN B07TYX3V4J
This is very standard adapter and can be bought in almost any electronics store. The software for O2 controller is provided by Ecotrons and is very easy to understand and use.

 

[2fpower]

This sounds like a great project; however, I have a short term attention span, so can you give us a peek under the hood?

 

[Pasechnik]

I am still on vacation until Jan 20 and still waiting for some bits and pieces I ordered on eBay and Amazon and some other good places to arrive. I don't live in Canada any more, so it takes extra time to get things in Georgia (not state Georgia, but Country). As soon as I am back home I will post some pics.

I know this thread will have a lot of good DIY ideas. Everyone can order a bolt on kit and install it, but it is so much more fun to DIY it...

 

[FieldCruiser]

I have good experience using the Auberins egt and boost gauge in my turboed BJ60. Very acurate and easy to install, small to mount and has good brightness in both sunlight and the dark of night. Would love to turbo the ol 105.

 

[Pasechnik]

I have good experience using the Auberins egt and boost gauge in my turboed BJ60. Very acurate and easy to install, small to mount and has good brightness in both sunlight and the dark of night. Would love to turbo the ol 105.

There are many gauges for much less money but not all of them are automotive ones. The voltage in the car can change very fast either way and this makes some electronics go crazy. Also as you mentioned the brightness is a big deal... You have to have ability to read the gauge at bright daylight and dim is considerably for comfortable night driving.

 

[FieldCruiser]

The biggest thing to remember with aftermarket gauges is having a solid ground, which proved to be an issue since on the 60, the interior lights are dimmed through the ground, which means I had to wire up the gauges in an isolated circuit with fuze. Not my go-to approach but its reliable and not prone to voltage fluctuations.

 

[Pasechnik]

The biggest thing to remember with aftermarket gauges is having a solid ground, which proved to be an issue since on the 60, the interior lights are dimmed through the ground, which means I had to wire up the gauges in an isolated circuit with fuze. Not my go-to approach but its reliable and not prone to voltage fluctuations.

Hm... I didn't know this. It can be done by using switching relay (5 pin relay with NO NC contacts) and rheostat. Normally (daytime) the light wire will get full 12v (NC contacts) and when lights are on the the relay will switch to rheostat side (NO contacts) and light wire will get reduced voltage by rheostat. This can be done many different ways but this seems to be an easy and reliable one and reliability is what counts in automotive applications.

Guys from Auberins could easily add this functionality in their gauges via menu setup.... But we are DIYers are not get scared by things like this.... just more fun

 

[Pasechnik]

This sounds like a great project; however, I have a short term attention span, so can you give us a peek under the hood?

View attachment 2184444

Finally I am home and here some pics. I am not sure if they make anything difference.

 

[Pasechnik]

Here a few more pics:

 

[Pasechnik]

Here are some turbo pics:

 

[Pasechnik]

And some more:

 

[Pasechnik]

The label says HE211W, but it is actually HE221W because the exhaust side size is 6.5 cm

 

[Pasechnik]

I am still waiting for a bunch of parts to arrive. My plan is to cut off the stock pipe from the stock exhaust flange and leaving about 1" and weld T2 flange to it. Then I can bolt the turbo on.

Here is where I want to cut the pipe:

 

[Pasechnik]

I have a few questions I might get answer. It seems that my injection pump has aneroid and not a boost compensator (why would it have one without a turbo )

1. Is it really necessary to install boost compensator? (some people say it is an anti pollution device, some say you must have a proper boost compensator and you can't tune the pump without it)

2. Is there a way to adjust or correct or modify my stock aneroid to start working as boost compensator?

 

[Blomdala]

I have a few questions I might get answer. It seems that my injection pump has aneroid and not a boost compensator (why would it have one without a turbo )

1. Is it really necessary to install boost compensator? (some people say it is an anti pollution device, some say you must have a proper boost compensator and you can't tune the pump without it)

2. Is there a way to adjust or correct or modify my stock aneroid to start working as boost compensator?

For number 2, check out this install step 27: Safari Diesel Intercooled Turbocharger System for the Toyota Land Cruiser 1HZ diesel engine

I think that's changing it to a "boost compensator". There was a thread with no pictures on one of the Australia forums which also mention I believe this procedure. For changing the fueling profile, there are lots of posts in the 1hd/hz pump tuning thread on mud.

 

[Pasechnik]

For number 2, check out this install step 27: Safari Diesel Intercooled Turbocharger System for the Toyota Land Cruiser 1HZ diesel engine

I think that's changing it to a "boost compensator". There was a thread with no pictures on one of the Australia forums which also mention I believe this procedure. For changing the fueling profile, there are lots of posts in the 1hd/hz pump tuning thread on mud.

Thanks a lot! I didn't see these instructions.... some good details.

Nowadays we have too much info too many posts too many opinions and it is very difficult to choose the "right" ones.