Another 1HZ DIY turbo conversion.... ALL DIY not a kit...

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Dec 10, 2019
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Georgia
This is a bit off topic. I added bypass oil filter at the same time. I used Frantz toilet paper filter. I know I know... you can call me crazy... But if you look at my Ram's oil after 15000 just before oil change you will start scratching your head and won't believe that diesel oil can be that clean at all and after 15000 km it is simply unreal... So anyways, here a couple of pictures. The fleetguard is a fuel filter and behind it Frantz.

20200526_140352.jpg


oil return from Frantz:

20200526_140400.jpg



20200526_135926.jpg


This is not a full flow filter, so it requires an oil flow restrictor:

20200409_174154.jpg
 
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Dec 10, 2019
Messages
51
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Georgia
Before the conversion I decided to have as much monitoring as practical, so I added 3 monitors.

1. EGT monitor

2. Boost pressure monitor

3. AFR monitor.

EGT and boost pressure are discussed often and documented everywhere, but AFR is a tricky one especially when it comes to diesels.

I used Auberins gauges for all 3 monitors as they are very accurate and very well documented:

Automobile Gauges : Auber Instruments, Inc., Temperature control solutions for home and industry

I also bought Auberins EGT probe:


And boost sensor:


Here is the boost sensor:

20200526_135930.jpg


Here are guages:

20200416_141826.jpg
 
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Messages
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AFR... this was a tricky one... Gas engines have very narrow AFR compare to diesel. Because of this I had to use only wide band oxygen sensor. Standard gas AFR monitors measure air to fuel ratio somewhere between 7 and 20. The reason for this is simple... fuel (I mean gasoline) out of this range AFR simply doesn't burn in gas engine. Diesel engine can work much leaner and a bit richer...

As I mentioned before I used Auberins guage. Bosch 0258017025 WideBand 17025 Oxygen Lambda Sensor LSU4.9 which I bought from eBay for about $40 and also I had to buy O2 sensor controller (wideband controller ALM-Board):


Here this board inside the box:
20200416_225335.jpg


Now I can measure AFR as lean as 175. Also I can connect my laptop and record AFRs while driving.
 
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I built a metal enclosure for my controls:

20200526_140232.jpg


My interior is still in ruins... but one day...

Next time when I have it running I will take a picture showing working controls.
 
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The 1 piece of the turbo puzzle is still missing... the boost compensator. I ordered one (22540-17260) but can't still receive it.... Nowadays shipping takes forever...

And because of this I am still driving with stock fuel settings. As is I can feel difference in power but I can add much more fuel for more power.

Any comments are welcome.
 
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Dec 10, 2019
Messages
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Any comments?

I still need more info about boost compensator.

Some people say it a must have part, some say it is just a pollution control device and it is not a real issue to leave it out.

I ordered 2254017260 boost compensator from Toyota Coaster from eBay but for whatever reason I can't receive it.

The are a few compensators used for our turbo conversions. It seems that most people use 22540-17550 compensator, but I can't find one for a reasonable price.
 
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Joined
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Messages
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Finally I received my boost compensator.... It took forever... Anyways, I can start tuning the truck.... I just need to find how :)
 

mudandrock

Back 40 Imports
Joined
Sep 11, 2014
Messages
489
Location
Montana
 
Finally I received my boost compensator.... It took forever... Anyways, I can start tuning the truck.... I just need to find how :)
I wouldn’t turn your fuel screw past 180. You will also have to turn the idle down once you turn up the fuel. Do all your adjustments with the truck running and have something in place to plug the air intake and breather hose in case you get a “runaway”.

Your manifold adapter does worry me, the exhaust pipe you have joining the two pieces is very thin. A factory manifold is not very expensive, you should consider buying one soon.
 
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Messages
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I wouldn’t turn your fuel screw past 180. You will also have to turn the idle down once you turn up the fuel. Do all your adjustments with the truck running and have something in place to plug the air intake and breather hose in case you get a “runaway”.

Your manifold adapter does worry me, the exhaust pipe you have joining the two pieces is very thin. A factory manifold is not very expensive, you should consider buying one soon.
I had to transfer both the fuel screw and the Idle screw into new housing as it came without them. I marked them both before transferring. It seem that the Idle is way to low as my engine hardly keeps up Idling. I will have to make a few turns to just touch the throttle lever. The fuel screw.... I have now idea how far off.

I can connect my laptop to AFR monitor and see what is happening there. I think having AFR EGT and boost pressure monitors available I can afford to play a bit.

The exhaust adapter is about 1/16 thick and very short. Also I have turbo bracket support below the turbo.
 
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Joined
Dec 10, 2019
Messages
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Georgia
This question is addressed to someone who knows the tuning. Right now my idle screw is way out, the truck starts but runs at very low rpm. Can I screw the fuel screw in until my idle starts to rise or it will be too much fuel?

Can this be the start point?

My fuel pin (the one with diaphragm) is rotated to max fuel position and star wheel is 20 clicks from the bottom
 

mudandrock

Back 40 Imports
Joined
Sep 11, 2014
Messages
489
Location
Montana
 
This question is addressed to someone who knows the tuning. Right now my idle screw is way out, the truck starts but runs at very low rpm. Can I screw the fuel screw in until my idle starts to rise or it will be too much fuel?

Can this be the start point?

My fuel pin (the one with diaphragm) is rotated to max fuel position and star wheel is 20 clicks from the bottom
Turn your idle screw in until it touches the throttle link. You should not be turning the fuel pin inside the boost compensator. The fuel “power” screw Is on the IP body. Get yourself an FSM
 
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Messages
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Turn your idle screw in until it touches the throttle link. You should not be turning the fuel pin inside the boost compensator. The fuel “power” screw Is on the IP body. Get yourself an FSM
The new boost comp is coming without idle screw, no max fuel screw and fuel pin in who knows what position.
I marked max and min points on fuel pin diaphragm, so I don't need to pull it out.

Right now:
1. my fuel pin in max position
2. Idle screw just touches the throttle link
3. Max fuel screw was marked and transferred exactly the same as it was. This can be meaningless because of the small differences between new boost comp and old aneiroid.
With this setting my engine starts, idles very low lower than 500 rpm.

There is a load of info about 1hz turbo converted engines mixed up with factory turbo engines. I simply can't find step by step instructions. I do understand what each screw means and what they do but I don't know where to start.

There are many adjustments available:
1. Main fuel screw
2. Idle screw
3. Fuel pin position
4. Star wheel
5. Shims under fuel pin diaphragm

Also the boost pressure.
 
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mudandrock

Back 40 Imports
Joined
Sep 11, 2014
Messages
489
Location
Montana
 
The new boost comp is coming without idle screw, no max fuel screw and fuel pin in who knows what position.
I marked max and min points on fuel pin diaphragm, so I don't need to pull it out.

Right now:
1. my fuel pin in max position
2. Idle screw just touches the throttle link
3. Max fuel screw was marked and transferred exactly the same as it was. This can be meaningless because of the small differences between new boost comp and old aneiroid.
With this setting my engine starts, idles very low lower than 500 rpm.

There is a load of info about 1hz turbo converted engines mixed up with factory turbo engines. I simply can't find step by step instructions. I do understand what each screw means and what they do but I don't know where to start.

There are many adjustments available:
1. Main fuel screw
2. Idle screw
3. Fuel pin position
4. Star wheel
5. Shims under fuel pin diaphragm

Also the boost pressure.
Main fuel screw is the only adjustment you need to do to turn up the fuel. Turn it clockwise, then turn the idle down. If your truck is already idling low, then turning up the fuel screw will help with that.

Aneroid pin adjustments are the last adjustments to be made, and to be honest I don’t think should be done on a 1HZ. On a pump that is tuned to factory specifications, paired with a ct26, a 1/2 turn on the fuel screw is usually just right to balance power and EGTs.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Location
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Main fuel screw is the only adjustment you need to do to turn up the fuel. Turn it clockwise, then turn the idle down. If your truck is already idling low, then turning up the fuel screw will help with that.

Aneroid pin adjustments are the last adjustments to be made, and to be honest I don’t think should be done on a 1HZ. On a pump that is tuned to factory specifications, paired with a ct26, a 1/2 turn on the fuel screw is usually just right to balance power and EGTs.
So, I am leaving fuel pin in whatever position for now. It doesn't affect idle anyways because there is no boost at idle.

I slowly turn max fuel screw until the idle start to climb and this is the indication that I am close to its correct position.

I adjust idle screw to have proper idle.

At this point I should be somewhere close to star point where I can fine tune the fuel delivery.

Am I correct?

The reason I am asking this is simple I want to have step by step instructions and somebody else can easily follow these steps later.
 

mudandrock

Back 40 Imports
Joined
Sep 11, 2014
Messages
489
Location
Montana
 
“With engine running turn the fuel screw (power screw) 1/2 turn clockwise. Then adjust idle screw counterclockwise.”

Excerpt taken directly from Back 40 Imports turbo kit installation manual
 

mudandrock

Back 40 Imports
Joined
Sep 11, 2014
Messages
489
Location
Montana
 
“With engine running turn the fuel screw (power screw) 1/2 turn clockwise. Then adjust idle screw counterclockwise.”

Excerpt taken directly from Back 40 Imports turbo kit installation manual
Then test drive and make finer adjustments as needed
 
Joined
Dec 10, 2019
Messages
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Location
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Here is very well written article about fuel tuning of our diesels.


Very simple and very detailed.
 
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