- Thread starter
- #21
Thanks inkpot. That leads to the next question. Size. The fan I'm looking at is a JDM and the rating is the same for the 9 ,12 and 14. What size is typically used.
And some more electric fan questions. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter danthman114
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12
do you have a supercharger ? (makes a difference on the fan you are running)
Curious, are you talking about pusher fans only? if so, what about a dual puller setup? Is the mechanical fan believed to still circulate more are than a decent electric puller setup?
I'm just curious, as all the high dollar radiator places - Ron Davis (or whatever his name is), Griffin, Be Cool - all recommend electric puller fans and I want to make sure I understand these nuances. Griffin even goes as far as to state that you should use electric fans over mechanical fans in their "10 commandments of cooling."
3. Thou shall use an electric fan.
Rule of thumb. Only choose a mechanical fan over an electric fan if it's your farm tractor. An electric fan is preferred because when you need a fan the most (at idle or cruising speeds) an electric fan is delivering maximum air independent of engine RPM's. Fans that move 2000-2300 CFM's are worth the investment. Preference should be given to a "pull" vs. a "push" fan. Mounted on the engine side of the radiator, a pull fan does not interfere with air flow at highway speeds. All shrouded fans should be on the engine side of the radiator.
- Thread starter
- #25
no super charger.
- Thread starter
- #26
im going to keep the mechanical fan and add a pusher to help out. the heat here is nasty and going slow and in sand causes those temps to climb fast. I think I found something I may try out and it doesn't cost as much as a good radiator.
Amazon.com: Universal JDM 12" Push Pull Performance Slim Engine Radiator Fan Black: Automotive
Amazon.com: GlowShift 38 MM or 1 1/2 Inch Water Sender Attachment: Automotive
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OBEOT0S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
does anyone see anything wrong with what I chose? should I change anything? I planned on running an auto/off/on switch as well...
I know about the AZ heat, as a Chandler Wolf Alum, I have fond memories of cleaning up one of the high schools in Yuma when it came to soccer. 
Im from AZ and from my testing I found a 100 series condenser fan works great. Having compared a JDM side by side the 100 series fan produces more flow. This test was done by feel so YMMV.
My needs and purpose for an aux fan was to keep the AC output as cold as possible in traffic and provide better cooler when wheeling under a heavy load at slow speeds. The 100 series fan only use ~5 amps,, quieter than the JDM and I mounting as low as possible to keep normal flow at it highest. No special controls needed with low amp draw just your basic rated factory Toyota relabeled fog light on/off switch.
My needs and purpose for an aux fan was to keep the AC output as cold as possible in traffic and provide better cooler when wheeling under a heavy load at slow speeds. The 100 series fan only use ~5 amps,, quieter than the JDM and I mounting as low as possible to keep normal flow at it highest. No special controls needed with low amp draw just your basic rated factory Toyota relabeled fog light on/off switch.
- Thread starter
- #29
I was looking for an on off on switch but not really sure of dimensions for the popouts...Im from AZ and from my testing I found a 100 series condenser fan works great. Having compared a JDM side by side the 100 series fan produces more flow. This test was done by feel so YMMV.
My needs and purpose for an aux fan was to keep the AC output as cold as possible in traffic and provide better cooler when wheeling under a heavy load at slow speeds. The 100 series fan only use ~5 amps,, quieter than the JDM and I mounting as low as possible to keep normal flow at it highest. No special controls needed with low amp draw just your basic rated factory Toyota relabeled fog light on/off switch.
View attachment 1277085
my work van (vortec) runs 210deg all day every day.......
im starting to rethink the cruiser cooling issue.
im starting to rethink the cruiser cooling issue.
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This sounds like a compromised/marginal radiator, can get away with this in other areas, in the desert not so much. We have seen good results with the TYC, I give slight build quality edge to the Koyo, but significant performance edge to TYC. At ~$115 at Rock Auto, hard to beat.
The pusher off of an early LS400 fits and works well, but don't see the need for a NA rig, we fit them on S/C rigs. With a tuned clutch, if it wont cool, a pusher isn't going to be the savoir, they are OK for taking the edge off, about it.
The pusher off of an early LS400 fits and works well, but don't see the need for a NA rig, we fit them on S/C rigs. With a tuned clutch, if it wont cool, a pusher isn't going to be the savoir, they are OK for taking the edge off, about it.
- Thread starter
- #32
I just don't like the idea of the plastic radiator... ive seen too many of them fail...
Tons of threads on aftermarket switches that will fit and work but a Toyota factory switch makes it easy.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
Been all electric for some while here in Spain, grab some 
and have a root through my long running thread, link in Sig.
More facts and figure than you can wave a stick at but, I am thorough! Before you go wading, an electric fan will not 'fix' an existing problem (blocked rad, poor OE fan clutch and so forth) if your OE setup is not working with the stock setup then no electric fan will fix it.
If you go Lincoln MK...... whatever, then depending which version of the fan you get (there are many), then amperage spikes at 35/38 going from stationary direct to second speed, settles down around 25. Mine has a 50 amp fuse and no issues thus far.
As above, all the info you will ever need in my thread.
regards
Dave
and have a root through my long running thread, link in Sig.More facts and figure than you can wave a stick at but, I am thorough! Before you go wading, an electric fan will not 'fix' an existing problem (blocked rad, poor OE fan clutch and so forth) if your OE setup is not working with the stock setup then no electric fan will fix it.
If you go Lincoln MK...... whatever, then depending which version of the fan you get (there are many), then amperage spikes at 35/38 going from stationary direct to second speed, settles down around 25. Mine has a 50 amp fuse and no issues thus far.
As above, all the info you will ever need in my thread.
regards
Dave
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- Thread starter
- #35
thanks everyone for helping me with this. I found a koyo 1918 for about 150ish and I think im going to pick it up and do the swap. I have a road trip to the sierras and its all desert and don't need any headache. after the radiator, my entire system will be new. if it still does it then im not sure what ill do next... ill be pming tools r us for sure...
*EDIT* nevermind, I will not be getting the $150 koyo after reading carid is crooked as Hillary...
*EDIT* nevermind, I will not be getting the $150 koyo after reading carid is crooked as Hillary...
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inkpot
SILVER Star
Virtually ALL OEM radiators in the last 15-20 years are aluminum cores with plastic tanks. The science has come a long way since the 1980s. With tomorrow's forecast at 120 degrees, I will have no hesitation to drive mine all day.
- Thread starter
- #37
I took tools advise and my new tyc radiator just showed up. Looks like daddy will be working on father's day...
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
The first issue you have is the fan is reversible. This means the fan blades are not optimised for any particular direction, IOW a compromise. Also the numbers do not add up, 80/12 = 6.6 amps and not the 12.7 that is stated in the description, why? If it really draws 12.7 amps then that would be a pretty powerful fan but......
I would keep in mind that if your alternator is stock, and assuming your going to be using the AC, and you may have a fridge then you find you do not have the amps available to run an additional fan 'effectively'. At the slow speeds you mention, the alternator may not have enough output to keep the fan at optimum speed?
I also think fitting a cheap fan instead of a decent radiator may be a mistake, at best it is a 'get you by' option?
Note, I am a bit 'belts and braces' so if I am over thinking this then ignore me.
regards
Dave
- Thread starter
- #39
Thanks. I have a new radiator in and will be changing it out in the butt crack of dawn. Seeing how it's almost 100 degrees then.
inkpot
SILVER Star
Definitely the coolest time of day. You have a chance to drive it this afternoon in the heat?
