DIY, ya why not, looks really simple!
And so it begins !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wayneosan
- Start date
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Hi Wayne, who is going to do the PCM work?
- Thread starter
- #104
Me, I tune computers for a living. And do wiring like this. OH, I have the fittings for the power steering, and for the life of me I forgot to get the prices today. (making sticky note now, just need to stick it where I'll remember it)
Kirk: I'm stuck on the pan situation. Ran short on cash this week. No oil pan ordered until tonight. Had to reserve the vacation room for wife and I. I'm pretty sure the only real solution is an F BODY pan and a lift. Even with a welded up pan I'm pretty sure it would still hit and you loose volume. Ordering lift too. Geez this is getting expensive.. Just a lot at one time. But ehh, NO CAR PAYMENT RIGHT!!!
Whatever you do...... DON'T CUT THE BLUE ONE!!!
- Thread starter
- #106
non PC. IS THIS GHETTO....?
So it took me two hours instead of one. but, now I can drive my rig on the stock suspension.
It was so easy to take off that I decided to modify this one and put the money towards something else. I'll change it later.
Jeff: I'm using Goodrich black woven, stainless steel braided hose for my power steering. It's really expensive. Like 10 bucks a foot retail. I'm using Black -6AN fittings for my pressure side of the pump. I may go with a generic woven hose for my return. I'm thinking I'll need 4 feet of expensive stuff and 6-7 feet for the return lines.
All in all, when I make the line, I'll get a price from the boss man, who so kindly lets me tinker on my own stuff.
I'll install the pan this weekend if all goes well, but it's kina busy with family stuff.
I had to extend the pickup tube a little, and I removed the front portion of the lower sump. I have no idea what's gonna happen. I haven't even test fit it yet.
So it took me two hours instead of one. but, now I can drive my rig on the stock suspension.
It was so easy to take off that I decided to modify this one and put the money towards something else. I'll change it later.
Jeff: I'm using Goodrich black woven, stainless steel braided hose for my power steering. It's really expensive. Like 10 bucks a foot retail. I'm using Black -6AN fittings for my pressure side of the pump. I may go with a generic woven hose for my return. I'm thinking I'll need 4 feet of expensive stuff and 6-7 feet for the return lines.
All in all, when I make the line, I'll get a price from the boss man, who so kindly lets me tinker on my own stuff.
I'll install the pan this weekend if all goes well, but it's kina busy with family stuff.
I had to extend the pickup tube a little, and I removed the front portion of the lower sump. I have no idea what's gonna happen. I haven't even test fit it yet.
Exhaust routing
I vote outside the rails.
With your apparent fab skills and available shop you should cut out the faulty LSVP and remove and change the rear sway bar mounts at the frame and run it under the frame there or where you’re talking but the gas tank seems to be in the way.
Mount a couple rear mufflers like the Corvette. Haven’t seen anyone route them this way and always wondered if it would work.
Nice work and good luck!
I vote outside the rails.
With your apparent fab skills and available shop you should cut out the faulty LSVP and remove and change the rear sway bar mounts at the frame and run it under the frame there or where you’re talking but the gas tank seems to be in the way.
Mount a couple rear mufflers like the Corvette. Haven’t seen anyone route them this way and always wondered if it would work.
Nice work and good luck!
Cool. Thanks for the update. Your welder does great work for that age. Just think what he's able to do when he hits his teens!
- Thread starter
- #109
Thrashing begins now!!
I'm starting another thrashing weekend. The girls are away, so I towed it to the shop. I'm finishing the wiring and will have it running tomorrow!!!
It's going to be a late night...
GOAL: I'm taking this on a road trip to Arkansas, Hot Springs in two weeks.
No excuses.
I'm starting another thrashing weekend. The girls are away, so I towed it to the shop. I'm finishing the wiring and will have it running tomorrow!!!
It's going to be a late night...
GOAL: I'm taking this on a road trip to Arkansas, Hot Springs in two weeks.
No excuses.
fzjconvert
one hand, two ducks
By all the photos you got skills!
But what happened to the plug-n-play for the 1fz?
But what happened to the plug-n-play for the 1fz?
- Thread starter
- #111
I finished it. Didn't I post up? Since I never heard from anyone I gave it to my uncle to put into his OLD bmw that we are going to fuel inject and turbo.
I never put it on the dyno, stock motor. I had one thing to work out with the idle control motor but HEY she ran really well! Lots of time and money invested. I'd be happy to help someone if they wanted to build one for their car. It'd cost at least 800-1000 for me to do it. But I could get a start up map and if they wanted to come have me tune it I have an AWD dyno. I had it also set up for the flex fuel sensor input, where you could run flex fuel; meaning if you were turbo, it would run more boost and timing and automatically adjust or scale the fuel and ignition and possibly boost per the ethanol content.
I never put it on the dyno, stock motor. I had one thing to work out with the idle control motor but HEY she ran really well! Lots of time and money invested. I'd be happy to help someone if they wanted to build one for their car. It'd cost at least 800-1000 for me to do it. But I could get a start up map and if they wanted to come have me tune it I have an AWD dyno. I had it also set up for the flex fuel sensor input, where you could run flex fuel; meaning if you were turbo, it would run more boost and timing and automatically adjust or scale the fuel and ignition and possibly boost per the ethanol content.
- Thread starter
- #112
sooooo close
I'm on the home stretch for wiring. I lack IH1 and IH2 connections in the cab. Gonna be a late night. BUT I WILL PREVAIL!!
6pm....
I'm going to try to start it tonight. Then it's MANY MANY
11:30pm.....
GRRRRRRRR....... 8 wires left. don't have fuel filter.... hmmm how much is this racing fuel filter?
3am. HOoOking up the battery....cross fingers. It's gonna fire right up on the first try right? Still no exhaust, but got everything out of the way for routing and MAN going outside the frame rails is going to be bad to the bone. All you have to do is re-route the fuel lines from above the opening to below it.
I'm on the home stretch for wiring. I lack IH1 and IH2 connections in the cab. Gonna be a late night. BUT I WILL PREVAIL!!
6pm....
I'm going to try to start it tonight. Then it's MANY MANY
11:30pm.....
GRRRRRRRR....... 8 wires left. don't have fuel filter.... hmmm how much is this racing fuel filter?
3am. HOoOking up the battery....cross fingers. It's gonna fire right up on the first try right? Still no exhaust, but got everything out of the way for routing and MAN going outside the frame rails is going to be bad to the bone. All you have to do is re-route the fuel lines from above the opening to below it.
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Geeeeet-r-done!!!
- Thread starter
- #114
yeahhh
so
IT'S ALIVE!!!!! I wanted to take a video with my phone but battery is dead.
Shifter, drive shaft, and radiator hoses.
I also grabbed the wrong wire for the factory oil pressure guage, so I'll have to re do that. I'm pretty sure the GM sensor will drive the dash oil pressure guage. OH, let me test the tach. I have not installed the pullup resistor yet.
Nope, it's going to need a pullup resistor; if that doesn't fix it, it'll need a tach adapter. Sigh.
SOUNDS really good with the exhaust off.
so
IT'S ALIVE!!!!! I wanted to take a video with my phone but battery is dead.
Shifter, drive shaft, and radiator hoses.
I also grabbed the wrong wire for the factory oil pressure guage, so I'll have to re do that. I'm pretty sure the GM sensor will drive the dash oil pressure guage. OH, let me test the tach. I have not installed the pullup resistor yet.
Nope, it's going to need a pullup resistor; if that doesn't fix it, it'll need a tach adapter. Sigh.
SOUNDS really good with the exhaust off.
Toyo Boyo
SILVER Star
Your skills are great, Wayneosan.
Running a big V8 with no exhaust - madness - but hell yeah, I bet it sounds GREAT.
Keep it up, the road trip looms large..........
CONGRATS!!!! So I guess you found the starter wire...
Tach Adapter
Hey Wayne, Congratulations! Can't wait to see the video and hear your review with some real power under the hood.
You'll most likely need a tach adapter-- We've looked at the tach signals of the
'80s a lot on the 'scope and there's no easy way to adapt the PCM-driven tach signals to what the 80 wants to see. We ended up building a tach adapter for the Atlas-- also interfaces the GM PCM cruise control inputs to the 'stalk' '80 cruise system. PM me if you want to chat about hooking those up.
Standing by for that video,
TT
Hey Wayne, Congratulations! Can't wait to see the video and hear your review with some real power under the hood.
You'll most likely need a tach adapter-- We've looked at the tach signals of the
'80s a lot on the 'scope and there's no easy way to adapt the PCM-driven tach signals to what the 80 wants to see. We ended up building a tach adapter for the Atlas-- also interfaces the GM PCM cruise control inputs to the 'stalk' '80 cruise system. PM me if you want to chat about hooking those up.
Standing by for that video,
TT
oooww yea, get some vids of the no exhaust ,then i might have to bail turbo for a LS1 or LS2 
those oil sumps you could make a few and sell them to Aus Plenty of LSx conversions in 80 and 105 series going on down here
Good work mate
those oil sumps you could make a few and sell them to Aus Plenty of LSx conversions in 80 and 105 series going on down here
Good work mate
- Thread starter
- #119
You'll most likely need a tach adapter-- We've looked at the tach signals of the
'80s a lot on the 'scope and there's no easy way to adapt the PCM-driven tach signals to what the 80 wants to see. We ended up building a tach adapter for the Atlas-- also interfaces the GM PCM cruise control inputs to the 'stalk' '80 cruise system. PM me if you want to chat about hooking those up.
Standing by for that video,
TT
I'll get a video today after lunch, or I'll try to.
The tach, I'm pretty sure that a 12v pull up from the GM tach output should work fine. Here, try this, this might help. Stop me if you've tried this already.
Tach wiring for 99+ Vortec/LS1
The Tachs Man cometh...
No, we haven't tried that particular variation. We've done several LSx engines into things as diverse as the BMW Wagon, a Datsun 260Z (with Fauxrari bodywork, 250GTO- it's a sweet ride), a B-Body Impala SS and Porsches-- and it always trips us up. We ended up using an external tach converter on the Nissan and the trigger output of the MSD box in the older Porsche...
The aftermarket tuner software for the P12, E67, etc PCMs seem to give you the ability to alter the tach output within their table-driven paint-by-numbers scheme, so it "Might" be possible to do what you need via the tuner software too if it doesn't work straight away.
Anyway, on the FJ80s we've done we did notice that the signal (watched on an oscilloscope while goosing it) basically looked like the flyback coil-return signal that went partial duty cycle to +12V (with lots of ringing, and a decay flyback drift back to -12, with a return to zero) and -12... Anyway it looked like it was magnetically coupled into the tach input-- and thus needed to be 'no DC content' or else it would saturate the magnetics. Once we saw that we punted and went 'external' on the Cruisers.
It COULD be clipped internally, though, which would mean that your pull-up scheme might work... the best thing to do would be to give it a try and let us know.
To work with the Atlas, I went ahead and did a fully-DC-decoupled design that bypasses the PCM entirely and pulls passively from the coil-near-plug drivers... I wanted something that could be used with any coil-per-plug scheme including Atlas, LSx, LQx, LMx. I also wanted the cruise control to work, so threw that in there too.
Please let us know if the pull-up works. I've never pulled an FJ80's tach internals apart to see what's in there-- we've just treated it like a black box and emulated the signal going into it.
Just FWIW, I'm not sure how accurate the tach is above 4000 RPM... when you rev the 3FE or 1ZF up, it's clear the duty cycle is going to max as we watched it on the scope. That Atlas, depending on which one, will take a redline of at least 6300-- and some are going to 6600 and beyond-- which are speeds the 3FE can only dream of. You might get some tach 'flutter' up there is all I'm saying-- it's not clear it was designed to register right at those high RPMs..
Please do give it a try with the pull-up and let us know! I may have wasted a lot of my own time! Would NOT be the first time, BTW.
TT
No, we haven't tried that particular variation. We've done several LSx engines into things as diverse as the BMW Wagon, a Datsun 260Z (with Fauxrari bodywork, 250GTO- it's a sweet ride), a B-Body Impala SS and Porsches-- and it always trips us up. We ended up using an external tach converter on the Nissan and the trigger output of the MSD box in the older Porsche...
The aftermarket tuner software for the P12, E67, etc PCMs seem to give you the ability to alter the tach output within their table-driven paint-by-numbers scheme, so it "Might" be possible to do what you need via the tuner software too if it doesn't work straight away.
Anyway, on the FJ80s we've done we did notice that the signal (watched on an oscilloscope while goosing it) basically looked like the flyback coil-return signal that went partial duty cycle to +12V (with lots of ringing, and a decay flyback drift back to -12, with a return to zero) and -12... Anyway it looked like it was magnetically coupled into the tach input-- and thus needed to be 'no DC content' or else it would saturate the magnetics. Once we saw that we punted and went 'external' on the Cruisers.
It COULD be clipped internally, though, which would mean that your pull-up scheme might work... the best thing to do would be to give it a try and let us know.
To work with the Atlas, I went ahead and did a fully-DC-decoupled design that bypasses the PCM entirely and pulls passively from the coil-near-plug drivers... I wanted something that could be used with any coil-per-plug scheme including Atlas, LSx, LQx, LMx. I also wanted the cruise control to work, so threw that in there too.
Please let us know if the pull-up works. I've never pulled an FJ80's tach internals apart to see what's in there-- we've just treated it like a black box and emulated the signal going into it.
Just FWIW, I'm not sure how accurate the tach is above 4000 RPM... when you rev the 3FE or 1ZF up, it's clear the duty cycle is going to max as we watched it on the scope. That Atlas, depending on which one, will take a redline of at least 6300-- and some are going to 6600 and beyond-- which are speeds the 3FE can only dream of. You might get some tach 'flutter' up there is all I'm saying-- it's not clear it was designed to register right at those high RPMs..
Please do give it a try with the pull-up and let us know! I may have wasted a lot of my own time! Would NOT be the first time, BTW.
TT
