sleeoffroad
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SUMOTOY said:
I suggested to Ken to remove it completely and stick it somewhere else in the truck. I agree hoodvents are in order. The relocated washer bottle also does not help with the air having a place to go.
An idea for added airflow in 1FZ engine (1 Viewer)
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I suggested to Ken to remove it completely and stick it somewhere else in the truck. I agree hoodvents are in order. The relocated washer bottle also does not help with the air having a place to go.
landtank said:
I will completely agree LT. A VC radiator fan can lockup less, taken up by the aux fan less effectively. One of the main reasons I say just blow air on the condenser if the A/C is on and functioning properly. Targetting engine temps with with an Aux pusher fan to me is fighting a much more efficient fan with a less efficient one.
Here in Chicago, we're in it already. I do my best to pass it your way for testing
Scott Justusson
I am thinking of putting a couple of washers between the hood and the hinges to lift the rear of the hood up a little. I was thinking it would only take a little bit to get alot of air flow. Comments?
Sean
Sean
MTNRAT said:
Induction ram air. At low speeds it might work, at high speeds I bet the high pressure boundary layer extends beyond those HVAC vents. Easy test, just tape yarn to the back edge of the hood, if they get sucked into the back side of the hood, remove washers.
SJ
I think that is a great idea. If you do that, will you add washers to all FOUR of the bolts at the rear of the hood..or just add washers to the most rear of the bracket???
airlaird
airlaird
Mot, is dat size 10 mm long socket in betweenmot said:I'm all for looking ghey, Baby!
Found this on the web:
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MTNRAT said:
Sean,
Here is someone I know doing that up to 122mph. It seems to have a huge effect on cooling.
and this is what she said
"I have one inch spacers at the back of the hood. I have clearance issues with some stuff. Theoretically it is bad in racing for a 'cowl' to be so far forward. The vacuum should be as close to the windshield as possible, the effect is lost in the placement of mine. It does cool a lot faster when it's not running. The temperature of the downpipe just behind the turbo after a hard run is still about 540 degrees - that's with 2 layers of ceramic coating outside AND inside."
Someone suggested removing the rubber seal at the back of the hood- that could be a simple way to see if it will be effective. I think it would let out alot of heat at slow speed.
**edit- the one good thing about the 3rd gen 4R, aerodynamics are similar to the 80 (esp w. bullbar), b/c the shape is very similar; just smaller.
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I have placed a request for the loan of an OBD II scanner on my club web site. Then I can take some real data and see if I am making it worse or better. I will also remove the rear seal and see what that does. I can temp remove the washer bottle and see what that does. I'll create a new thread once I get it and post the results. Lots of great info here, I guess I need data specific to my truck.
Trunk Monkey
Moderator
sleeoffroad said:
So, where does it go? I've seen the one you did with them in the cargo area, thought I'd seen one someone was trying putting it along the frame rail under the truck - where else could you relocate?
FirstToy said:
First Toy:
I read this to be cowl induction intake ram air, not heat release (vent)? Are you reading it this way too? So, basically, she is drawing *in* fresh air from the rear of the hood, helping to push hot air down and out. On shutdown it becomes a vent (vs intake) letting the hot radiant heat air out of the hood area. I really doubt it's effective as induction, since that hood would need to be in the 3in high category to overcome boundary airflow. It might be effective as a vent at low speeds though. It certainly is an easy test to see if low speed cooling is helped by vents.
I'd be hesitant pulling off the firewall seal, that's really to separate engine stink from the HVAC system. As long as you tell your passengers you are 'testing' I suspect it's ok the first time....
SJ
Actually she did it for underhood clearance issues not induction but as a low speed vent, yes it is extremely effective.
I think pulling the seal is a easy test. If it doesn't work, you just pop it back in.
There was another thread recently about hood vents also, w/ some interesting vents and shapes.
Also an idea I got from Joyce (the blown 3rd gen) is spray cooling the radiator (evaporative cooling). Mainly used as a turbo intercooler thingy, as you well know SJ. I like the idea so I am implementing it.
Anyway, I got a 2nd washer bottle to spray the radiator as I think that's a good way to drop up to 20 degrees (theoretically anyway). Obviously this is perfect in my situation (desert, low humidity offroading) not so for humid climates.
I think pulling the seal is a easy test. If it doesn't work, you just pop it back in.
There was another thread recently about hood vents also, w/ some interesting vents and shapes.
Also an idea I got from Joyce (the blown 3rd gen) is spray cooling the radiator (evaporative cooling). Mainly used as a turbo intercooler thingy, as you well know SJ. I like the idea so I am implementing it.
Anyway, I got a 2nd washer bottle to spray the radiator as I think that's a good way to drop up to 20 degrees (theoretically anyway). Obviously this is perfect in my situation (desert, low humidity offroading) not so for humid climates.
FirstToy said:
It works, some of the best misters are home depot built. Try using blue winshield washer fluid, it works well. As a rule, tap water is a no no, since the mineral deposits tend to collect on the condenser/radiator core. It does take a lot of juice to keep things cool, so you will likely go thru a lot of fluid. It certaily would be a great mod to hook up to the A/C high pressure switch circuit.
I suspect that you will see a good gains in condenser efficiency, but not much in terms of radiator cooling. Too much exchange is required to have much of an effect IMO without a lot of water. Bigger water tank man!
Keep us posted on the results of that mod.
Scott Justusson
FZJFillmore said:
Pulled my spare tire out from under mine the other day. I'm amazed at all the space up there. I guess that would be too far away from the alternator , but certainly closer to the ARB Fridge. Some type of vented box bolted up tight to the frame?
I don't know what I'm talking about, just throwing it out there.
troy
I planned on using straight distilled water & switch in-dash to use only intermittently. I'll see how it works.. is blue wash fluid better in some way?
thru my brief research, I found trucks in afghanistan often spray water on the radiator during a hillclimb or other high-stress event to stop overheating. Low tech but shows the power of vaporizing water to take away heat!
thru my brief research, I found trucks in afghanistan often spray water on the radiator during a hillclimb or other high-stress event to stop overheating. Low tech but shows the power of vaporizing water to take away heat!
As it would have it my work plans were cancelled. I'll be around for the heat wave. I'll be draining the clutch tomorrow and installing 5K oil as it looks like that will be the final viscocity and I'll do some hood temps after that. It might break 100*F here on Wednesday. If you think Humidity levels would help I'll get those too.
Landtank,
what about temps just under the hood (like oil fill cap height) and temp down further (represented by green dots).
Blue dot- temp between firewall & engine block
3 readings: at speed, at idle, at shutdown
If it's a pita, just the blue dot temp is what I'm most curious about.
what about temps just under the hood (like oil fill cap height) and temp down further (represented by green dots).
Blue dot- temp between firewall & engine block
3 readings: at speed, at idle, at shutdown
If it's a pita, just the blue dot temp is what I'm most curious about.
I'll see what I can do. The issue is that it records a single max temp. So if I place it somewhere and then drive and remove it. It won't be accurate to just the driving as it went in and out during some stationary time.
I was looking today and it would seem that on top of the brake booster would be one good place.
I was looking today and it would seem that on top of the brake booster would be one good place.
So the ruling on the rear hood spacers is @ speed it does nothing, but @ low speed/idle it acts as a good vent?
I too am interested to see a "heat map" of the underhood temps
3 weeks ago I removed the rear hood seal and have since driven from colorado to utah to cali and around cali. I have not noticed any hvac related smell. My truck isn't getting hot but I have done lots of mods since last summers overheating issues so its hard to say what is helping (oil cooler, tstat, new blue coupler, turbo, intercooler, k&n filter). but the hood seal removal mod DID NOT INCREASE STINKINESS and if it did my wife would let me know.
3 days ago i installed a 12" haden electric fan using a relay lighted switch to the cab so that my wife wont leave it on when she gets out of the truck. we will see if it helps stop and go ac performance-the last few days here in fresno havn't been hot enough to give it a good test.
3 weeks ago I removed the rear hood seal and have since driven from colorado to utah to cali and around cali. I have not noticed any hvac related smell. My truck isn't getting hot but I have done lots of mods since last summers overheating issues so its hard to say what is helping (oil cooler, tstat, new blue coupler, turbo, intercooler, k&n filter). but the hood seal removal mod DID NOT INCREASE STINKINESS and if it did my wife would let me know.
3 days ago i installed a 12" haden electric fan using a relay lighted switch to the cab so that my wife wont leave it on when she gets out of the truck. we will see if it helps stop and go ac performance-the last few days here in fresno havn't been hot enough to give it a good test.
do you think that removing the rear seal causes hot air to be drawn into the cowl vents and makes the AC work harder to cool?
