An idea for added airflow in 1FZ engine

[CruisinGA]

I also think wrapping the exhaust is a good idea.

If you want it to rust away much quicker...

getting it ceramic coated to keep in heat=good idea
wrapping= bad

 

[RavenTai]

I think it was tools in another thread that popinted out: one thing to think about is that paths arroung the radiator core support also work in reverse when at low speed when ram air pressure is low, letting the fan recirculate the same hot air.

I would concintrate on airflow through the radiator not arround it,

 

[bull]

Wouldn't a snorkel help too?

 

[SUMOTOY]

Scott,
Great info. On lxtremes vent- isn't that also a potential issue with dust (not on his particular truck , but generally speaking ).

I have another question- It seems venting in the opposite direction would allow for better venting of air flowing through the radiator but doesn't the absence of hood vents also control movement of dust from carrying up into the engine as the air must flow downward?

Not sure it matters unless you were running a cone filter. We need to get heat out of the engine bay. Down is a constant. Up is quite up for modification.

you could always have vent closing sliders I saw someone here installed.

personally, I believe more damage is caused by the engine driven fan sucking dust thru condenser and radiator cores. The military is starting to get a handle on this after a couple years of exposure/failure

SJ

 

[SUMOTOY]

Here is a basic mod I do on my road race cars: remove the rubber seal attached to the back of the firewall that seals to the hood. Great way to let air escape. It will work better at speed.

I tried that several times. Problem: Smoke in engine bay gets sucked into HVAC. Lots of smoke, hard to see, long enough... Hard to add.

I also suspect you will see that not being allowed unless HVAC is rerouted.

SJ

 

[Tools R Us]

....
personally, I believe more damage is caused by the engine driven fan sucking dust thru condenser and radiator cores. The military is starting to get a handle on this after a couple years of exposure/failure

SJ

Dust really isn't a problem in the cores as long as they are clean and dry it just sails right through, bigger stuff, sand can be a problem. For us sand is only a problem if your following too close, driving in someone's roost. For the military they may have problems with big close convoys, big sand storms, helicopters, etc. kicking up the bigger stuff.

 

[SUMOTOY]

Dust really isn't a problem in the cores as long as they are clean and dry it just sails right through, bigger stuff, sand can be a problem. For us sand is only a problem if your following too close, driving in someone's roost. For the military they may have problems with big close convoys, big sand storms, helicopters, etc. kicking up the bigger stuff.

Hmm... I was out west with my 4R a couple times. When the dust storm settled on one occasion there were a lot of shiny parts around the grill area and condenser core. It's just finer grit, so it takes longer to accomplish the polishing task.

SJ

 

[Dusty]

People keep speaking of issues with the hood vents in terms of pressures atop the hood. But my truck doesn't have a problem with heat when on the highway. I would want the scoop/vent/whatever for when I am not moving like in stop and go or when wheeling.
this past weekend I was wheeling my truck in st george (got some 295/75/16 bfg's) when it was 110' outside. truck got as hot as 215' per my digital probe in the upper heater hose. In this case a hood scoop would have been helpfull to let the heat out. I wish lxtreme would post a part number for that scoop of his

I know the hottest point under my hood is just above the turbo because that is where the heat is discoloring the heat mat attached to the underside of the hood. i think I would want my vent there.

 

[fzj80kidpen]

Bigbrowndog,
I agree with you it looks like the nissan or mit is using it to feed air into the intercooler. Also looks like it has a tight fitting seal so that it will suck the air from the vent rather than the engine bay. On the other hand if you just cut a hole in the hood and pop a vent on top then there is no seal and air is going to move in the direction that positive pressure pushing it. My bet is that more air is being blown in from the radiator fan than in that area of the hood. There is negative air pressure on that area of the hood. Anyone that does not believe then put a small stick up there and drive around.

 

[SUMOTOY]

People keep speaking of issues with the hood vents in terms of pressures atop the hood. But my truck doesn't have a problem with heat when on the highway. I would want the scoop/vent/whatever for when I am not moving like in stop and go or when wheeling.
this past weekend I was wheeling my truck in st george (got some 295/75/16 bfg's) when it was 110' outside. truck got as hot as 215' per my digital probe in the upper heater hose. In this case a hood scoop would have been helpfull to let the heat out. I wish lxtreme would post a part number for that scoop of his

I know the hottest point under my hood is just above the turbo because that is where the heat is discoloring the heat mat attached to the underside of the hood. i think I would want my vent there.

We need to differentiate between convection heat and radiant heat (which I did several months ago). Radiant heat off a turbo can be reduced by hood vents elsewhere, but that requires air movement. Once you shut the truck of with a hot turbo, it's radiant heat = Vent or afterrun fan.

Audi turbos since 1986 use an afterrun fan and coolant pump circuit to help address this problem. A more practical (or in my case 'additional') solution would be to put a vent to let out the radiant heat from the turbo.

I did this mod on my 4R turbo as well, the peeling paint told me exactly where to put those vents.

Scott Justusson

 

[2badfjs]

FYI take a look at a 40 hood and see where the louvers are on it

its all about air flow if you looking to evac underhood heat...

 

[Dusty]

We need to differentiate between convection heat and radiant heat (which I did several months ago). Radiant heat off a turbo can be reduced by hood vents elsewhere, but that requires air movement. Once you shut the truck of with a hot turbo, it's radiant heat = Vent or afterrun fan.

I am concerned about when the motor is running. when idling along at less than 5mph there is so much heat under my hood that it is scary-especially if I open the hood after a boosted run in the sun. im not overheating when wheeling as I can live with 215 degrees. The motor will be fine at that temp especially with such mild loads associated with rock crawling. The worst part about this wheeling in 210' st George heat was that the ac condensor doesn't get enough air flow to keep the cab cool. Im finninshing up a Haden 12" fan instal and looking for some effective vents/scoops.
Again I dont care about scoop/vent dynamics at speed as heat hasn't been an issiue at speed this summer even when running the mojave in 100'+ just 2 days ago. this past year I replaced the fan coupler and thermostat before installing the turbo WITH INTERCOOLER and relocating the oil cooler. But the intercooler covers half the radiator and this is what is making my ac so innefective at stoplights. I need to get more air through the condensor and then out from under the hood.
You fellas with superchargers need to get intercoolers.

 

[SUMOTOY]

I am concerned about when the motor is running. when idling along at less than 5mph there is so much heat under my hood that it is scary-especially if I open the hood after a boosted run in the sun. im not overheating when wheeling as I can live with 215 degrees. The motor will be fine at that temp especially with such mild loads associated with rock crawling. The worst part about this wheeling in 210' st George heat was that the ac condensor doesn't get enough air flow to keep the cab cool. Im finninshing up a Haden 12" fan instal and looking for some effective vents/scoops.
Again I dont care about scoop/vent dynamics at speed as heat hasn't been an issiue at speed this summer even when running the mojave in 100'+ just 2 days ago. this past year I replaced the fan coupler and thermostat before installing the turbo WITH INTERCOOLER and relocating the oil cooler. But the intercooler covers half the radiator and this is what is making my ac so innefective at stoplights. I need to get more air through the condensor and then out from under the hood.
You fellas with superchargers need to get intercoolers.

I suspect it's still radiant heat. Put a vent above the turbo. Look to that Jeep site to see if you can get that in a low pressure zone to boot.

Blocking the radiator isn't really the problem, blocking the ocndenser is. I guess I better give you Part III so you can wire that thing eh?

SJ

 

[Romer]

So I didn't quite do what my initial idea was as I want to be careful about moving the overflow. However, I did a modified option that did provide 3 inches of open space for airflow. Unfortunately I do not have any real data to show improvement or not.

So, What I did was as follows:

1) Moved the battery as far to the fender well as possible,
2) Using a cut off tool I removed a whole side of the battery tray.
3) I relocated the engine side battery bracket whole in an existing part of the tray.
4) I bent the bracket for the battery hold down
5) I tightened the bracket to secure the battery in the spot.

Measurement shows 3" of area open between the Battery and the radiator.

Edit: The first shot shows before trimming was complete. The 2nd shot is a better indication of what I ended up with.

 

[Romer]

I also moved the lights to the top of the ARB. Now need to relocate the CB antenna.

Don't know if I am going to go through with relocating the radiator overflow bottle. Need a few more step #6's to ponder.

Here is the before shot

 

[nakman]

Pretty cool, Ken. Do you have enough room to run a tube straight to the air cleanier housing? talk about a deck plate..

And would you gain anything by cutting down that bracket & drilling another hole? Then poke a hole in the tray for the anchor.. it looks like you could go another inch, just not sure if that buys you anything.

 

[mot]

A little slow in responding, but thought I would show what are available in Japan, other than what LX has posted...

I've also seen guys putting some washers in the hinges close to the windshield to have that end be a little higher to reliese some hot air (not sure how well/poorly it or any of these work though).


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[SUMOTOY]

A little slow in responding, but thought I would show what are available in Japan, other than what LX has posted...

I've also seen guys putting some washers in the hinges close to the windshield to have that end be a little higher to reliese some hot air (not sure how well/poorly it or any of these work though).
.

Thanks for the pics Mot!

Pic 3 will dump air just aft of the radiator. The problem is it's not taking enough air to make a big difference.

Pic 2 I don't recommend because if you get a bit of oil leak or other engine bay smells, your HVAC will suck it in. BTDT, I know for a fact it can get really ugly in a race car. But even just a hint of oil spilling from the cap, or valve cover, it will not be fun when you are taking the wife to dinner, and she smells like aux du Diesel, it will cost you a lot of money to fix that and the hood scoop too.

Pic 1 probably has the best airflow where it's needed

Scott Justusson

 

[SUMOTOY]

I also moved the lights to the top of the ARB. Now need to relocate the CB antenna.

Don't know if I am going to go through with relocating the radiator overflow bottle. Need a few more step #6's to ponder.

Here is the before shot

Ken:
If you compare your first set of pics to the last (after and before), look at the air filter can exposure to radiator aiflow. IMO, you probably increased the intake air heat. Prior to the mod the air can was behind the battery box, hidden from direct airflow from the radiator fans. After the mod, the air can is now fully exposed to the radiator fan. I suspect you increased the intake air temp at the expense of a battery more exposed to underhood elements.

IMO, a better mod would be to leave the battery box, attach a steel heat shield that directs radiator fan air to the engine side of the airbox. Without any exit strategy (read vents), you've increased airbox temps, and allowed more heat to go to the PS of the truck.

Do you have any method of measuring the effectiveness of this mod?

I hope it works, but I suspect you've stepped back. Hood vents might help.

Scott Justusson

 

[Romer]

I did the mod because I was told the dual battery cut down on the airflow and made the situation worse. If I understand you correctly, your telling me that's not true????

I was attempting to make the airflow similar to what it was before I added the 2nd battery.

About 50% of the air can is still covered by the battery.