Are you hinting?What's next, buy a 100 series?
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Are you hinting?What's next, buy a 100 series?
Never know.Are you hinting?
Forever stuck.
Maybe one day I'll replace the heater valve under the hood!
That ol' cruising around west Texas in August feeling.I always thought that EternaHeat was a factory feature on 40's.
That ol' cruising around west Texas in August feeling.
Actually, I think the next vehicle we are going to buy will be a newer Rav4, something we can put a half million miles on without concern.Are you hinting?
Y'know, 2 out of 3 ain't bad...Now comes the fun part, wiring everything up in such a fashion that it doesn't make it into the redneckness thread. And make it modular and easy to troubleshoot should the need arise.
Doing some voodoo magic on it's own right now!Seat.... Heaters.....???? What kind of voodoo magic is that????
Seat.... Heaters.....???? What kind of voodoo magic is that????
give it a couple weeks and you won't have to worry about it till springToday I had to make a run up to Missoula to run a few errands, probably lower 80's when I left my house, about 15 minutes into the drive I noticed my ass and back were burning, checked the seat switch, off.
Reached over to the passenger seat, hot.
WTF? Both seats heaters were running, both switches were off.
Stopped along the way and pulled the fuses for the seat heaters.
Did some troubleshooting when I got home this evening. 3.6 amps with the switch off, I unplugged the switch from the harness, same story. Plugged the old switch in and the heater turned off. As soon as I unplug the original switch the heater comes back on at 3.6 amps.
For the life of me I can't figure out what's going on. There are no resistors inside the original switch, I pulled the ground from the original switch and it worked fine.
I opened the original switch up, nothing, just a basic on-off-on SPDT switch.
The only thing that could be anything suspicious is one of the outgoing wires from the original switch has 1vDC on it.
I double checked both sides of the wiring harnesses, both switch wiring configurations, I didn't find anything questionable with anything.
Decided to walk away and mix up some tequila and lemonade.
Are you sure you didn’t mean to say “elegant solution”?
More to come later...
The fun began when I wanted lighted switches. I had already decided on the V series rockers from Carling.
The seat heater wiring design runs the 12vDC power supply to a magic black box under the seat, from there a 3.5(ish)vDC switching circuit goes up to the switch. Hi-off-lo switching circuitry (SPDT).
That wouldn't work with a 12vDC light in the Carling switch, after reviewing some wiring diagrams on their switches I figured out i could run with a DPDT (double pole double throw) switch would work. Using one set of contacts for the heater switching, and the other I brought 12vDC to power the lighting circuit in the switch.
View attachment 3986091View attachment 3986093View attachment 3986094
Late night progress last night. I had to do some troubleshooting already also, one of the female connectors wasn't crimped correctly.
View attachment 3986938
That ol' cruising around west Texas in August feeling.
Today I had to make a run up to Missoula to run a few errands, probably lower 80's when I left my house, about 15 minutes into the drive I noticed my ass and back were burning, checked the seat switch, off.
Reached over to the passenger seat, hot.
WTF? Both seats heaters were running, both switches were off.
Stopped along the way and pulled the fuses for the seat heaters.
Did some troubleshooting when I got home this evening. 3.6 amps with the switch off, I unplugged the switch from the harness, same story. Plugged the old switch in and the heater turned off. As soon as I unplug the original switch the heater comes back on at 3.6 amps.
For the life of me I can't figure out what's going on. There are no resistors inside the original switch, I pulled the ground from the original switch and it worked fine.
I opened the original switch up, nothing, just a basic on-off-on SPDT switch.
The only thing that could be anything suspicious is one of the outgoing wires from the original switch has 1vDC on it.
I double checked both sides of the wiring harnesses, both switch wiring configurations, I didn't find anything questionable with anything.
Decided to walk away and mix up some tequila and lemonade.