American Heart Transplant: FJ60 + Vortec
- Thread starter dbleon
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- Thread starter
- #85
Staying external to facilitate in the field replacement....
I talked to Mountain Cruiser (Tony, very cool guy). He has a 5.3 setup in his 40. He mentioned using a pump off an isuzu npr (with 6.0l) He said its extenal in the stock configuration and works well, very reliable. I think I'll go this route...
The external pumps are really easy to service, which is something I loved about the setup. I had bad luck running them though, maybe I was running the wrong ones (walbro 225), or they were too big and tended to pull too much fuel and cavitate i'm not sure. Maybe the stock 5/16 hard line in the tank is too small, maybe mine was mounted too high..
The external setup does work, just make sure you carry an extra pump with you in case you have any problems. It saved me a few time. Lots of folks doing the vortec swaps in all kinda of vehicles use external pumps and do fine though. Make sure your prefilter for the pump flows a good amount of fuel to reduce the suction on the tank side... that was something I noticed made mine cavitate. I ran a cheap 3/8 barb plastic filter for a while and it worked OK, but you could see it pulling a vacuum inside. I tried a really big metal filter (just browsed napa for one) and it was really bad. The best luck I had was running a simple in line screen that flowed a lot a fuel.
something like this:
Summit Racing SUM-230101 - Summit Racing® Full Flow Fuel Filters - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Anywho, just trying to share what I learned, not saying you shouldn't do it.
cheers
The external setup does work, just make sure you carry an extra pump with you in case you have any problems. It saved me a few time. Lots of folks doing the vortec swaps in all kinda of vehicles use external pumps and do fine though. Make sure your prefilter for the pump flows a good amount of fuel to reduce the suction on the tank side... that was something I noticed made mine cavitate. I ran a cheap 3/8 barb plastic filter for a while and it worked OK, but you could see it pulling a vacuum inside. I tried a really big metal filter (just browsed napa for one) and it was really bad. The best luck I had was running a simple in line screen that flowed a lot a fuel.
something like this:
Summit Racing SUM-230101 - Summit Racing® Full Flow Fuel Filters - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Anywho, just trying to share what I learned, not saying you shouldn't do it.
cheers
- Thread starter
- #87
The external pumps are really easy to service, which is something I loved about the setup. I had bad luck running them though, maybe I was running the wrong ones (walbro 225), or they were too big and tended to pull too much fuel and cavitate i'm not sure. Maybe the stock 5/16 hard line in the tank is too small, maybe mine was mounted too high..
The external setup does work, just make sure you carry an extra pump with you in case you have any problems. It saved me a few time. Lots of folks doing the vortec swaps in all kinda of vehicles use external pumps and do fine though. Make sure your prefilter for the pump flows a good amount of fuel to reduce the suction on the tank side... that was something I noticed made mine cavitate. I ran a cheap 3/8 barb plastic filter for a while and it worked OK, but you could see it pulling a vacuum inside. I tried a really big metal filter (just browsed napa for one) and it was really bad. The best luck I had was running a simple in line screen that flowed a lot a fuel.
something like this:
Summit Racing SUM-230101 - Summit Racing® Full Flow Fuel Filters - Overview - SummitRacing.com
Anywho, just trying to share what I learned, not saying you shouldn't do it.
cheers
Thanks brother, I will keep all that in mind!
I use an external walbro without problem (on my 5.7 vortec). Between the engine and the pump I run a GM OEM fuel filter like the suv's and pickup run (1999 Vintage), between the pump and the fuel tank I'm running some kind of small filter from Russell I think (been a while and I don't recall the specific model), but it one of the simple in-line filters.
I've never had a failure on it and we plumbed this feeded on new rubber hose from the fuel tank forward to the fuel pump and filters which are on the passenger side frame rail back somewhat close to the right rear tire. Right now I have braided line from the filters forward to the engine.
I know different engines have diffter setups for fuel regulators and the requirement for return.
I've never had a failure on it and we plumbed this feeded on new rubber hose from the fuel tank forward to the fuel pump and filters which are on the passenger side frame rail back somewhat close to the right rear tire. Right now I have braided line from the filters forward to the engine.
I know different engines have diffter setups for fuel regulators and the requirement for return.
- Thread starter
- #91
Ordering some chassis saver paint for frame, themal-tek heat/sound barrier and some other stuff... Progress is slow, but steady.
I need to figure out logistics on engine mounting and pan clearance. Seems I have a few options:
1. Have stock pan cut and clearanced.
2. Use camaro pan (from research it appears it too will need trimming, so whats the point in spending an extra $300???)
3. Do a spring over lift. I want to do this anyways (was planning for future) but maybe it will make things easier. I already have half the truck in pieces. Why not just get the springs on top of the axle?? I wait on stuff like high steer and CnT until motor swap is done.
What do you guys think?
This project definately has a snowball type effect!!!!!
But in the end I think if I do it once/right, I'll be happier and have a shweet truck for <$10k total... Cant beat that when new 4x4 trucks are >$35k
I need to figure out logistics on engine mounting and pan clearance. Seems I have a few options:
1. Have stock pan cut and clearanced.
2. Use camaro pan (from research it appears it too will need trimming, so whats the point in spending an extra $300???)
3. Do a spring over lift. I want to do this anyways (was planning for future) but maybe it will make things easier. I already have half the truck in pieces. Why not just get the springs on top of the axle?? I wait on stuff like high steer and CnT until motor swap is done.
What do you guys think?
This project definately has a snowball type effect!!!!!
But in the end I think if I do it once/right, I'll be happier and have a shweet truck for <$10k total... Cant beat that when new 4x4 trucks are >$35k
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Hey I got your pm I did talk to him but he said he can't get to anytime soon i'll ask him for a recommendation of someone else local.
I would reccomend posting in the az copper state cruiser forum for a local recommendation the Arizona club is pretty active and very helpful.
If you want spring over in the future now is the time. Your going to need some drive shaft modifications anyway so there's no sense spending the money twice. . I wouldn't recommend a cut and turn with a v8/auto swap. 1 its 100% unnecessary since by the time you swap your v8 your front drive shaft becomes much longer. 2 if your doing it to run a cv drive shaft don't!!! To run a cv drive-shaft in mine I actually had to modify not only the pan and the cv joint which was custom to begin with, I had to modify the internals of my transmission to gain the necessary clearance.
If done again I would run a u joint front drive shaft, with the added length the angles aren't much different than stock sua.
There will be lots of opinions from people who say otherwise but the fact is I drive 80-85 every time I hit the freeway and it is smooth as butter even without a steering stabilizer. It also tracks very straight. Have also been up arond 65-70 in 4wd without vibes.
When you install a v8 auto and adapter it changes things drastically so cnt debate from people with 2fs becomes irrelevant.
I would reccomend posting in the az copper state cruiser forum for a local recommendation the Arizona club is pretty active and very helpful.
If you want spring over in the future now is the time. Your going to need some drive shaft modifications anyway so there's no sense spending the money twice. . I wouldn't recommend a cut and turn with a v8/auto swap. 1 its 100% unnecessary since by the time you swap your v8 your front drive shaft becomes much longer. 2 if your doing it to run a cv drive shaft don't!!! To run a cv drive-shaft in mine I actually had to modify not only the pan and the cv joint which was custom to begin with, I had to modify the internals of my transmission to gain the necessary clearance.
If done again I would run a u joint front drive shaft, with the added length the angles aren't much different than stock sua.
There will be lots of opinions from people who say otherwise but the fact is I drive 80-85 every time I hit the freeway and it is smooth as butter even without a steering stabilizer. It also tracks very straight. Have also been up arond 65-70 in 4wd without vibes.
When you install a v8 auto and adapter it changes things drastically so cnt debate from people with 2fs becomes irrelevant.
- Thread starter
- #93
Ya I figure Im gonna need new driveshafts regardless with this swap, so I might as well just throw the springs up on the axle. That allows me to finish the engine swap with the exact placement I need and not have to worry about pan clearances.
On the CnT... Your saying best bet is levae it and run standard u-joint shaft like the bottom one here?
Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist
Thanks for the help. Kutris, I wouldnt mind meeting you and, I dunno maybe test driving your rig if your cool with that...
Yea tom woods is a good option.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/453377-pickles-soa-long-last.html
Heres a thread where he talks a little about the same issues. Really the only way to not have to hack up your trans pan is to run a u joint up front. The point of the cut and turn on a 2f 60 is to deal with the steep drive shaft angle that occurs up front. With the auto your angle is pretty good even with soa due to the additional length of your front drive shaft. So a lot of guys cut and turn so they can point their pinion at the transfer case allowing you to run a cv at the transfer case side and a u joint at the pinion side with a close to 0degree angle at the pinion side. The problem with the auto/adapter/split case setup is it doesn't leave enough room for a cv on the transfer case side so its a lot easier to leave it with a standard driveshaft. The way u joints work is you want the angles to be parallel on each side (pinion and t case). So if you pinion is 5 degrees up you want your t case to be 5 degrees down. As long as you are close to parallel and the total angle on each end doesn't get to large you still wont have any vibrations.
I decided to pull the 2" bl off mine so its apart for a little bit while I do that soundproof and i wait to get the door panels and rear bench upholstered to match the front leather buckets, but if I get it going maybe i'll take it to one of the local meets in the next couple weeks.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/453377-pickles-soa-long-last.html
Heres a thread where he talks a little about the same issues. Really the only way to not have to hack up your trans pan is to run a u joint up front. The point of the cut and turn on a 2f 60 is to deal with the steep drive shaft angle that occurs up front. With the auto your angle is pretty good even with soa due to the additional length of your front drive shaft. So a lot of guys cut and turn so they can point their pinion at the transfer case allowing you to run a cv at the transfer case side and a u joint at the pinion side with a close to 0degree angle at the pinion side. The problem with the auto/adapter/split case setup is it doesn't leave enough room for a cv on the transfer case side so its a lot easier to leave it with a standard driveshaft. The way u joints work is you want the angles to be parallel on each side (pinion and t case). So if you pinion is 5 degrees up you want your t case to be 5 degrees down. As long as you are close to parallel and the total angle on each end doesn't get to large you still wont have any vibrations.
I decided to pull the 2" bl off mine so its apart for a little bit while I do that soundproof and i wait to get the door panels and rear bench upholstered to match the front leather buckets, but if I get it going maybe i'll take it to one of the local meets in the next couple weeks.
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- Thread starter
- #95
Getting going on ordring parts. Thinking of running an in-tank feul pump.... could use some help.
Using this thread for reference: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/394565-tank-fuel-pump-conversion.html
Seems I have a few options:
1. Stock 60 tank, cut up and add aftermarket setup like this FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY FOR STEEL TANK
2. Stock 62 tank, swap appropriate fule pump. Manu, can you help here? This is what you did right?
3. Aftermarket tank and stock chevy fuel pump. Like rover67 did.
What do you guys think? Are external pumps that bad to NEED an in-tank setup?
Using this thread for reference: https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/394565-tank-fuel-pump-conversion.html
Seems I have a few options:
1. Stock 60 tank, cut up and add aftermarket setup like this FUEL PUMP ASSEMBLY FOR STEEL TANK
2. Stock 62 tank, swap appropriate fule pump. Manu, can you help here? This is what you did right?
3. Aftermarket tank and stock chevy fuel pump. Like rover67 did.
What do you guys think? Are external pumps that bad to NEED an in-tank setup?
Well, An inline pump and the vette filter is super easy to do. You can run that and get a feel for how it all works then maybe decide on going in tank if you wanted.
Here's a thread on the pumps:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/343545-external-inline-fuel-pump-recommendation.html
Here's a thread on the pumps:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/343545-external-inline-fuel-pump-recommendation.html
Yeah I ran a fj62 tank with a walbro pump in it.
It ran great from day one and never had any issues....
I ran it this way not cause the inline fuel pumps where "bad", but cause they were too damn loud for my liking... I could still hear the damn thing even with the radio blasting... so I went with the in tank set up.
With a V8 set up you'll find real soon that you'll be willing to use your truck a lot more often on long drives and a long range tank is the ticket.
Having fuel cans is cool as hell, but pouring them into the tank is another story........
I think with either of the 3 choices you got yah cant go wrong... lots of guys run inline fuel pumps without any issues and the same can be said about in tank fuel pumps..
I can get the part numbers for the walbro pump if you go that route....
- Thread starter
- #98
Are you trying to talk me out of it? I just want it to be right, and really only want to buy parts once. If I can make an in tank setup work with the stock 60 tank, I think I'm gonna go for it. What is the downside? Only thing I can think of is you can't change it out in the field....
Manu, how was swapping the 62 tank into the 60? Are all the vents and everything in the same location? Does it bolt right up?
Thanks guys for your invaluable expertise!
Cheers
the 62 tank is identical to the 60 tank. bolts right up.
The only difference is the 62 inlet for the fuel pick up is slightly different as it accommodates the fuel pump into the tank. the sender is the same as the 60.
The only difference is the 62 inlet for the fuel pick up is slightly different as it accommodates the fuel pump into the tank. the sender is the same as the 60.