American Heart Transplant: FJ60 + Vortec

[dbleon]

Jim? As in Jim Downey?
Just curious.....
Let us know what yah find out.

Jim from Advanced adpaters...

Well i got a call back from some great guys over at AA (Vick and Mike).

I can't say enough about thier customer service!

Our hypothesis is that the bearing I have might have an improperly machined groove for the snap ring causing the sanp ring to be a tad too large in circumference when installed on the bearing.

So.... They are sending me out a new bearing to try. I really hope that's the fix... We will see. I'll be sure to update.

Things are really coming together for the swap. I finally have time to work on getting it done.

Deadline = October 16 before my new baby arrives.

Keep me on track and motivated guys!!!

 

[Clonestocker]

Dan,

Sorry to hear about your problems. Are they sending 2 bearings . Mine's coming apart in a couple of weeks. I'll take a good look at mine tonight. I'll give you a call. BTW, what motor mounts are in your pictures? later matt

 

[orangefj45]

one quick question:

when the snap ring is on the bearing, s there an opening where the two ends of the snap ring meet or do they touch? if they touch, then cut 1/8" off one end and try it again.

hth

georg

 

[John Smith]

I don't understand why you need the clip at all. Once the bearing is seated against the lip I am pointing to with the blue arrow, it can't go any further. Am I missing something?

 

[orangefj45]

the oem bearing is seatedwhere you have te blue arrow. the AA unit sits up higher, by the second ed arrow. it also pertrudes into the adapter casting and the snap ring keeps it in place. without the snap ring, the bearing and more importantly, the spud shaft, could move back and forth. that could definetly lead to transmission problems if transmission output shaft is allowed to bottom out in the spud shaft.

hth

georg

 

[John Smith]

the oem bearing is seatedwhere you have te blue arrow. the AA unit sits up higher, by the second ed arrow. it also pertrudes into the adapter casting and the snap ring keeps it in place. without the snap ring, the bearing and more importantly, the spud shaft, could move back and forth. that could definetly lead to transmission problems if transmission output shaft is allowed to bottom out in the spud shaft.

hth

georg

Got it, that would be bad.

 

[dbleon]

the oem bearing is seatedwhere you have te blue arrow. the AA unit sits up higher, by the second ed arrow. it also pertrudes into the adapter casting and the snap ring keeps it in place. without the snap ring, the bearing and more importantly, the spud shaft, could move back and forth. that could definetly lead to transmission problems if transmission output shaft is allowed to bottom out in the spud shaft.

hth

georg

Georg,

You are absolutely correct. The new bearing (AA) sits mostly in the adapter. Like 1/4" sits into the middle groove and the snap ring sits in the top groove as well as holding the spud shaft and bearing in place in the adapter.

I'm hoping the new bearing fom AA will do the trick.

You're always a great help Georg! 's on me if I ever get up to Cali...

 

[dbleon]

Dan,

Sorry to hear about your problems. Are they sending 2 bearings . Mine's coming apart in a couple of weeks. I'll take a good look at mine tonight. I'll give you a call. BTW, what motor mounts are in your pictures? later matt

Hey Matt, Hope all is well down in Tucson.

Ya, AA is sending a new bearing to try out.

The motor mounts are AA Ls series mounts (4 bolt). They are really beefy

one quick question:

when the snap ring is on the bearing, s there an opening where the two ends of the snap ring meet or do they touch? if they touch, then cut 1/8" off one end and try it again.

hth

georg

The snap ring ends definately do not touch. We think the problem is the exact opposite... in fact there isnt enough material milled out of the bearing groove to allow the snap ring to close to the point where it will fit.

 

[dbleon]

Well, it turns out I'm not crazy (despite what my wife says).

It was the bearing... The new bearing arrived and its a perfect fit!!!!!!!

Moving up-ward and on-ward with this project now.....

 

[Clonestocker]

Dan, What's the difference. The # on my bearing is 6308RS. Can you tell the difference? What are the #'s on your bearing? and the new one. I guess I might need to give AA a call. matt

 

[dbleon]

Dan, What's the difference. The # on my bearing is 6308RS. Can you tell the difference? What are the #'s on your bearing? and the new one. I guess I might need to give AA a call. matt

No Matt, it's the same part number...6308RS. The original bearing was apparently not machined to the correct tolerance for the sanp ring groove, so it wouldn't fit. Its the right part, just was a defect in manufacturing... a rare problem I presume.

Once you have the t-case apart you'll see what I mean...

 

[dbleon]

Got the t-case on the tranny, going to be putting the tranny on the engine.

Question:

I have googled about transmission fluid for the 4l60e and get a ton of different opinions on what type of oil to use. Dexron 3 or Dexron 6...

Seems Dexron 6 came out 2006, and thats all GM uses now, but my tranny is 2002 era, and it calls for Dexron 3. Dexron 6 is supposed to be backwards compatable, but IDK???

If it makes a difference, tranny is built: beast sunshell, upgrade 3-4 clutches, corvette servo, and shift kit.

What do you guys think I should run Dexron 3 or 6?

 

[dbleon]

Made a little progress... I know all you are picture whores.

Undercoating of fenders. Used a product called "RUSFRE" $25/gallon and produced tremendous results.

I had to widen the tranny mount SOR sent me cause it didnt fit on the AA adapter housing. I dont know who's fault it was. 1/4 scrap plate and some welding did the trick.

Assembly of T-case on back of tranny (standing up is easiest BTW)

T-case asmmebled and test fitting shifter (Lokar=NIIIICE) easy to assmeble too.

Test fitting the engine to get an idea of placement and clearances. Fits like a glove if you ask me

Clearance at firewall ~ 1 inch as test fitted.

Welded a scab plate on the frame rail for extra structual support. Double pass welds to be sure it aint movin'. Tried to position the scab plate diagonal to the vector of the load... didnt get them exactly how I wanted them but oh well.

 

[dbleon]

Then the driveline is mated... there was a mating call when the engine inserted it's dowel pins into the transmissions bellhousing. :whoops: Shifter linkage all figured out... torque converter installed and using the crane and the motorcycle jack to get them in position.

And thats where I ended the night... All as one, awating transplant. The donor is crying out for his new heart!!!!!

 

[MANUCHAO]

Nice work...
On that Lokar shifter.. make sure it shifts nice and smooth into each gear before yah put it under the rig... I was missing the 1st for the longest time.. until I gutter the Lokar mechanism and let the tranny tell me what gear I was in..... it works much better... I also had to (bend to fit) the shifter to get from Park to first without touching the tuffy or the dashboard.....

Anychance you can read the part numbers for that mechanical clutch fan and fan ???
If you do please send it my way....

Good progress... !!!

 

[lehiguy]

On an unrelated note, you might want to take the opportunity while the fenders are off to remove the lame front shock towers and weld in something better. Also check the U-joints on your steering. Much easier to replace when the motor is out.

 

[Clonestocker]

Dan,
Looking good. I'll be back on mine next week. Enjoying the Central Calif. coast right now. 65* during the day and loving it. Has anybody tried to utilize the stock shifter on the 4L60E? What are you using for your rear cross member? No more ?'s. later matt

 

[dbleon]

Nice work...
On that Lokar shifter.. make sure it shifts nice and smooth into each gear before yah put it under the rig... I was missing the 1st for the longest time.. until I gutter the Lokar mechanism and let the tranny tell me what gear I was in..... it works much better... I also had to (bend to fit) the shifter to get from Park to first without touching the tuffy or the dashboard.....

Anychance you can read the part numbers for that mechanical clutch fan and fan ???
If you do please send it my way....

Good progress... !!!

Ya i tried the shifter, it seems to shift very well except I dont know if I'm getting all the gears. Should it go into all the gears listed on the knob? P,R,N,OD,D,2,1?

I'm only getting 6 positions... is this right? I might have to call lokar.
P/N for clutch and fan: Ill get back to you.

On an unrelated note, you might want to take the opportunity while the fenders are off to remove the lame front shock towers and weld in something better. Also check the U-joints on your steering. Much easier to replace when the motor is out.

Ya, I need to do U-joints on the steering. I found that old school corrola u joints are supposed to work. Made by Prescision U Joint part number PUJ 395

Dan,
Looking good. I'll be back on mine next week. Enjoying the Central Calif. coast right now. 65* during the day and loving it. Has anybody tried to utilize the stock shifter on the 4L60E? What are you using for your rear cross member? No more ?'s. later matt

I'm gonna use a 2x4 pice of square tubing and weld 90* brackets to frame rails to bolt it to. should be stout.

I was going to re-use the original, but when you look at it its actually slanted. I guess thats due to the 2f being slanted slightly as well. The AA adapter housing is parallel, so i dont think you could use the stock x-member without mounting the engine crooked to one side.

 

[MANUCHAO]

Ya i tried the shifter, it seems to shift very well except I dont know if I'm getting all the gears. Should it go into all the gears listed on the knob? P,R,N,OD,D,2,1?

I'm only getting 6 positions... is this right? I might have to call lokar.
P/N for clutch and fan: Ill get back to you.

I would undo the linkage at the tranny (on the left side and shift with your hand.. you should get P-R-N-D-3-2-1.

I ran without 1st gear for the longest time...you hardly ever need it but its nice to know its there

Good luck calling Lokar their customer service suck's...(at least that was my experience a few years ago) may be it got better who knows.... I were you, get all the guts out of the shifter and try shifting it.. then you see the huge difference that makes...(mind yah.. my truck can be started while in reverse or drive but so can any stick shift.... but there is only two peeps that drive this rig.

Thanks on the part numbers.. !!!

 

[Clonestocker]

I was going to re-use the original, but when you look at it its actually slanted. I guess thats due to the 2f being slanted slightly as well. The AA adapter housing is parallel, so i dont think you could use the stock x-member without mounting the engine crooked to one side.

Dan could you please explain? You don't think the 2F was parallel with the frame rails or do you think the front of the motor is higher than the rear? This is where you get no input from the swappers. I would love to know what everyone thinks is the ideal position for the motor. I'm starting with the Chevy fan clutch in the same spot as the 3FE, about 9" back from the front cross member. Not positive on where I.'m going to position motor height yet. I know your limited by your oil pan but I'm not sure on the 5.7. What are you using to determine your motor placement? Would love to here some input from Orange 45. later matt