Am I ridiculous for preferring a Land Cruiser over a LX470? (1 Viewer)

[MongooseGA]

Ironically, most people here are more concerned about not having the higher end Lexus image, and would rather just be associated with the LC.

I really only ever tell people I have a Land Cruiser. It's easier, nobody outside of enthusiasts understand the alpha-numeric naming of car companies (thus people will think you drive a RX or something terrible like that), and I hate saying aloud "Lexus LX470". The more letters and numbers following a Luxury brand name, the more snobby lay-people will interpret it.

I've owned 2 of each. When shopping for my current truck, I was open to either LX/LC, told myself I wanted an LC for ease of upgrading, but also really just wanted an LX. All of the extra accessories in the LXs are worth it, IMO. The only subjective aspect is the face. Everything else is better. Better leather and better carpet. Better sound deadening. Better convenience features. Better, more modern touches (like the electro-luminescent cluster or rain-sensing wipers). All auto windows (I think my '00 LC was only driver's window, could be wrong). Better ride quality provided AHC is in spec.

IMO, the people who will only shop for an LC over an LX are even more committed to some sort of image than people who lust after a luxury mark. If the point is to obtain a reliable, comfortable, capable vehicle, then paying more just to have the T on the back and a fixed grill is silly.

 

[FxFormat]

Does anyone know if the Toyota Sombrero will fit into the Lexus logo in the rear? Thinking of swapping the L out for the T and the same with the front.

 

[Enrique Sonora]

I know they are essentially the same mechanically.

I will remove AHC regardless most likely.

I really prefer the front end look of the LC. Especially the 98-02’s.

The biggest thing for me are the lights. Really don’t like the double housing look of the Lexus.


I also don’t dig the side molding on the LX.


Interior wise I’m not crazy about the wood trim. I prefer the normal gray/silver trim.


Finally, the LC looks less pretentious. This isn’t a knock in any way towards LX owner’s....I just prefer the ‘yuppie’ look as stupid as that sounds.


My fear is I will run across an incredible clean LX470 and be faced with a decision. I’ve bought cars in the past where there was this immediate ‘what if’ or ‘i Wish’ feeling.


Does anyone have any any experience rebadging and reworking the front end to look like a LC?


I will say I plan on adding an ARB front bumper. Will hide the front end a lot.


Can you take the side and read moldings off?


Anyone else ever been in this boat before?

I enjoy my LX for sure. Yes I looked for an LC as well, but found nothing but jerks that wore out the trucks, didn't take care of them and wanted a fortune for used truck because of the name. You may be too worried about how it looks. no one really cares and you can't see the front of the truck when your driving anyway. However, if wheeling is important to you, and suspension mods are priority, then get a good LC. Otherwise, you will love the LX, much better interior, sound abatement and ride. I been wheeling in the desert with no issues compared to other LCs. Answer this... is it status of driving an LC more important than function? Good luck.

 

[GTV]

While I started searching for LX’s and LC’s I’ve narrowed it down to LC’s because I intend to keep the vehicle for as close to forever as possible and I just can’t get on board with looking at that 4 eye face every day. I also don’t want AHC as it is just another system that needs to be maintained, traditional LC suspension is more than good enough for me. So paying a few thousand more for a LC over the time I intend to keep it really doesn’t mean anything. While it may not offer as many options as an LX it’s still a huge upgrade from where I’m at now.

 

[Kabanstva]

Answer this... is it status of driving an LC more important than function? Good luck.

I imagine 90%+ of the people on this forum are in the US? If so, then I never knew owning a Land Cruiser was even a status thing here. Maybe in Africa or Australia where they have these things in much larger numbers. In the US, status would be driving a new G-Wagon, 911, S-Class or cars of that nature. Nobody knows jack about Land Cruisers in the US anyways, unless you meet some real car nerd. If you're so concerned with your image, realize that the general public could give a crap about a 80/100/200 series.

 

[MongooseGA]

I imagine 90%+ of the people on this forum are in the US? If so, then I never knew owning a Land Cruiser was even a status thing here. Maybe in Africa or Australia where they have these things in much larger numbers. In the US, status would be driving a new G-Wagon, 911, S-Class or cars of that nature. Nobody knows jack about Land Cruisers in the US anyways, unless you meet some real car nerd. If you're so concerned with your image, realize that the general public could give a crap about a 80/100/200 series.

Outside of this forum or similar, it's really not. I see plenty of 100s (LX and LC) driven in very affluent areas of Atlanta. Yeah, some people do recognize them for their build quality and reliability and will keep them for literally decades. But, outside of the quietly wealthy and enthusiasts, it's a big 4Runner.

I had an argument with my same cousin mentioned earlier that they were or weren't actually "real trucks" compared to his OJ Bronco. This is a guy who knows better than to argue car stuff with me, but the ignorance is so strong you're only fighting an uphill battle trying to get people to understand.

So I don't bother anymore. I've got a body on frame vehicle (not a pick up but still a truck), 2 speed transfer case, diff lock, armor, foam cell suspension, etc... I don't need or expect a guy with a 2wd Bronco or a woman whose husband drives a Del Sol to understand any of it.

 

[katit]

LX is for me and I don’t care about image.
1. They seem to be cheaper all condition/miles equal
2. Better all around with features mentioned above

I only get AHC argument, but its like $1k deal to convert? Still cheaper because of #1.

I personally use it 99% on paved roads and comfort is most important thing

 

[ikarus]

 

[95Fantasma80]

LX is for wine connoisseurs

LC is for beer connoisseurs

LX is superior in stock form off roading because instant one inch lift at the push of a button.

LC is superior in having non car people understand why you own a 20 year old toyota due to name recognition.

LX is superior in comfort

LC is superior in having less luxury items to break, minus 06-07 as those are pactically an LX anyways.

LX are unique in off road destinations and turns heads in awe when they share jeep trails.

LC are dime a dozen in off road destinations and not many bat an eye.

Choose your destiny.

 

[Travis Bickle]

I see this comment here alot that you guys have the difficult task of having to "explain" to everyone what you drive and what an LX is.

How do you even find yourself in those kind of conversations? Why do you talk to non-car people about cars? I work in the automotive field and we have several contractors that we use that come out to our shop and do work for us, half of them are not even hardcore car enthusiasts but they all know what my LX is when they see it.

I never once had to tell someone " oh it's basically a Land Cruiser", as if it wasn't a Land Cruiser, it's by default a crap vehicle and not worthy of being talked about. That's some silly stuff. Plenty of other 4x4s that can do all the same trails a 100 series can. My friend did trails in his bone stock 97 4Runner with almost 300k miles and stock suspension easier than I did in my much newer LX with less miles, bigger tires and in High setting. His 4Runner also cost $2,800 lol. Too many people here care about their image and think they are kings or something if they drive a "real" Land Cruiser. Some of these guys need a serious reality check.

You must be new to the Land Cruiser scene

 

[gungriffin]

Umm.... clearcoated paint is FAR better than single stage paint in every way for durability and real world use. The ONLY things I can think of that make single stage nicer is the ease of touchup and re-paint and if you like the non-metallic look then single stage is the way to go. You can juts as easily "burn" or strike through single stage paint as metallic/solid clearcoated paint. I've done hundreds (probably thousands by now) paint corrections since I do this for a living for a well known shop in the Chicago area, single stage is actually harder to finish down to a swirl free/haze free finish since they are much softer paints and you don't have the metallic flake to "hide" that last bit of 5-10% haze that you might not otherwise see with the naked eye on a metallic paint.

There's a reason you don't see any auto manufacturer using single stage anymore, to my best knowledge.

Toyota and many other manufacturers still use single stage paint. Usually for white and black with out any metallic.

What is the advantage they see? Probably the same ones that I do. It gives more material to buff before compromising the paint. I don't have to worry about the clear coat flaking off due to sun or being worn too thin. If is a bit easier to color match. I don't need my paint to look perfect, just relatively good. I have that now. I believe it would look like crap if a clear had been applied because one of the previous owners loved to compound the car. The paint is very thin in places, but it is still there. Most likely, if it had clear, they would have sporadically burned through the clear if it was used.

Just my .02

 

[Kabanstva]

Toyota and many other manufacturers still use single stage paint. Usually for white and black with out any metallic.

What is the advantage they see? Probably the same ones that I do. It gives more material to buff before compromising the paint. I don't have to worry about the clear coat flaking off due to sun or being worn too thin. If is a bit easier to color match. I don't need my paint to look perfect, just relatively good. I have that now. I believe it would look like crap if a clear had been applied because one of the previous owners loved to compound the car. The paint is very thin in places, but it is still there. Most likely, if it had clear, they would have sporadically burned through the clear if it was used.

Just my .02

You're mixing your terms bud. Burn through is when you actually burn paint when you get too aggressive with a buffer, usually a rotary since that's a much faster machine than what most detailers use these days (DA). I have not once "burnt" through, not single stage, not clearcoated paint. You have to be a bit of an idiot to do that or be completely clueless how to use power tools. You mention burn through as if that's some big problem, when really it's not.

 

[gungriffin]

You're mixing your terms bud. Burn through is when you actually burn paint when you get too aggressive with a buffer, usually a rotary since that's a much faster machine than what most detailers use these days (DA). I have not once "burnt" through, not single stage, not clearcoated paint. You have to be a bit of an idiot to do that or be completely clueless how to use power tools. You mention burn through as if that's some big problem, when really it's not.

Ok so I am using the term incorrectly, but the concept is still the same. You can and do wear through the clear over time. At some point you don't leave enough clear coat to allow for it to remain intact. When the happens the clear coat fails and begins to (usually) flake. With 045 Toyota white, I prefer that it doesn't have a clear coat. They put single stage paint on thicker (than the clear coat on other colors) and so I have more material to work with before I cause any issues with the paint. This is still my preference.

I want to add that I do agree with you that on most vehicles a two stage paint is the superior. I prefer the single stage on this vehicle because I wheel it almost exclusively. The paint is easier to repair when damage occurs and I have more material to work with when pin striping occurs from contact with branches on trees and bushes.

 

[Kabanstva]

Ok so I am using the term incorrectly, but the concept is still the same. You can and do wear through the clear over time. At some point you don't leave enough clear coat to allow for it to remain intact. When the happens the clear coat fails and begins to flake. With 045 Toyota white, I prefer that it doesn't have a clear coat. They put single stage paint on thicker (than the clear coat on other colors) and so I have more material to work with before I cause any issues with the paint. This is still my preference.

Believe it or not, single stage is one of my favorite paints, and I absolutely LOVE non-metallic paint. I just don't want that on a daily driven car, let alone a truck that will be used offroad. Single stage is prone to oxidation, unless it's a garage queen, it's guaranteed to oxidize. The only way to remove oxidation is through polishing with an abrasive, which as you know means you're removing paint every time you remove oxidation. People don't typically polish a clearcoated car that often unless they're bothered with swirls and scratches which can all be avoided with proper washing techniques. You cannot avoid oxidation on single stage paint if your vehicle sits outside. We've done Cquartz Reserve on single stage paints and even that doesn't help, that's one of the most prestigious ceramic coatings on the market. I've done single stage of all kinds, it's cool when it's a small car, but something as big as a 100 series is not fun to work on. I once did a single stage red Sprinter van, and still remember that job because the owner wanted the roof buffed as well... let's just say we are not handing out flyers at the sprinter dealership. It's a time consuming and dirty job that requires ladders, etc. If you're content with your 100 looking dull and oxidized, then more power to you.

 

[Kabanstva]

We’ve been doing more full body PPF wraps than paint corrections over the last few years because if you can afford it, it’s the absolute best investment you can make to preserve any type of paint. The green car is an all original single stage Signal Green 911 RS factory cup car (Japanese spec) with under 2,000 miles. Full correction and full PPF wrap. It had various deep scratches throughout from doing a few racing seasons back in 92 when it was new and was stored for a few decades. Had no oxidation because it was indoors all the time. The difference between single stage and clear coat is single stage is not UV protected anywhere near as much as clear coated paint. Putting film over it gives you the protection you need from the sun plus chip and scratch protection.

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[Kabanstva]

PPF is the way to go if you really care about protecting your paint.

 

[CloudCity]

Believe it or not, single stage is one of my favorite paints, and I absolutely LOVE non-metallic paint.

Same, especially when done right on a classic like a 300sl roadster, etc. As good as it gets.

 

[gungriffin]

Believe it or not, single stage is one of my favorite paints, and I absolutely LOVE non-metallic paint. I just don't want that on a daily driven car, let alone a truck that will be used offroad. Single stage is prone to oxidation, unless it's a garage queen, it's guaranteed to oxidize. The only way to remove oxidation is through polishing with an abrasive, which as you know means you're removing paint every time you remove oxidation. People don't typically polish a clearcoated car that often unless they're bothered with swirls and scratches which can all be avoided with proper washing techniques. You cannot avoid oxidation on single stage paint if your vehicle sits outside. We've done Cquartz Reserve on single stage paints and even that doesn't help, that's one of the most prestigious ceramic coatings on the market. I've done single stage of all kinds, it's cool when it's a small car, but something as big as a 100 series is not fun to work on. I once did a single stage red Sprinter van, and still remember that job because the owner wanted the roof buffed as well... let's just say we are not handing out flyers at the sprinter dealership. It's a time consuming and dirty job that requires ladders, etc. If you're content with your 100 looking dull and oxidized, then more power to you.

I see what you are say and totally agree. Thanks for helping me to get my auto detailing terms right. I definitely have a bit of oxidation on the top of my paint. I don't know how much better a clear would hold up to getting pin stripes from branches though. Especially 20 year old clear from the late 90s. Some of the new clear that manufacturers are using is quite impressive.

PPF is the way to go if you really care about protecting your paint.

You definitely get to work with some fun vehicles at work!

 

[meekoboy]

I like the Lexus better, after heavily modifying mine, I still have the Lexus ride and quietness. Very minimal tire hums from 38x15.5. Oh and of course the thumbs up on a daily bases and a oh s*** that's a Lexus!!!!

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Here it is next to a Lancruiser and a Raptor!!

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KICK A$$ RIG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! WAY TO REP FOR THE LX FAM. In the end its all 100!

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HOLY MOLY. KICK A

 

[Eighteen11R]

Correct! It's called a Cygnus in other markets and is the highest echelon in the LC family. Lexus doesn't exist outside North America.

As a lifelong RUSH fan, I particularly am fond of the Cygnus name

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What is the corner mirror giving the right handed driver a better view of? Does it prevent curb rash when parallel parking ? I know from experience that spot mirrors on my short nosed TTs came in very handy for tight maneuvering. Is that the case in Japan? I also dig the turn signal marker lamps under the side-view mirrors.