Alternator upgrade-Is there one? (1 Viewer)

[OregonLC]

Has anyone run short of power? If not, keep it stock. FWIW, my 100 alternator was 80 amps and never had a problem with it keeping a high demand dual battery system fed.

Regarding the 5A charging rate... There's (up to) 180A going to the battery. The 5A is the battery voltage sensing line that controls alternator output. Electrical systems are battery fed but alternator charged. We have a (roughly) 14V electrical system with a (roughly) 12V battery. The system operates at 14V when the truck is running which is sufficient to both provide for electrical demands and charge the battery. The system drops back down to a 12V (technically 12.6-12.8V) resting voltage when the engine is off.

All that said, the system will supply as much power as required to charge the battery (or more specifically, to attain the system cutoff voltage). 5A would be a horrible charge rate.

 

[TonyP]

Also, if you need a boost in charge for your 2nd battery, the Redarc 1225 I just bought will compensate for the "smart alternator" and boost the voltage.

 

[Sandroad]

Has anyone run short of power? If not, keep it stock. FWIW, my 100 alternator was 80 amps and never had a problem with it keeping a high demand dual battery system fed.

Regarding the 5A charging rate... There's (up to) 180A going to the battery. The 5A is the battery voltage sensing line that controls alternator output. Electrical systems are battery fed but alternator charged. We have a (roughly) 14V electrical system with a (roughly) 12V battery. The system operates at 14V when the truck is running which is sufficient to both provide for electrical demands and charge the battery. The system drops back down to a 12V (technically 12.6-12.8V) resting voltage when the engine is off.

All that said, the system will supply as much power as required to charge the battery (or more specifically, to attain the system cutoff voltage). 5A would be a horrible charge rate.

View attachment 1645360

Thanks for the extra info. I wondered about that 5A rate when I read the specs in the manual.

 

[Tapage]

Old thread revival ... but are your alternators the " smart " ones .? ( keep V low until more it's needed ? )

 

[beretta]

I regularly use a 3000 watt inverter with the factory alternator, and it has never let me down while the car is running. I’ve maxed it out at 20ish amps (110), voltage went to 12.5 (which is still charging) and it chugged right along.

 

[Sinister]

Mine took a dump today and drained my battery as well, must of been going for a little bit. It’s sitting at Toyota awaiting the new one to come (Wednesday.)

 

[LCHardriver_02]

Reviving the revival of a revived thread...

Any changes to the alternator after 2013? I have an '18 and will be adding a Redarc BCDC charge controller so I can add solar charging to my aux battery and just want to verify that that my understanding of the alternator is correct: Variable amperage, but NOT Variable Voltage.

Correct?

Thanks much!
Jonathan

 

[sdnative]

Reviving the revival of a revived thread...

Any changes to the alternator after 2013? I have an '18 and will be adding a Redarc BCDC charge controller so I can add solar charging to my aux battery and just want to verify that that my understanding of the alternator is correct: Variable amperage, but NOT Variable Voltage.

Correct?

Thanks much!
Jonathan

The alternator in the 200 (all years AFAIK) is temperature compensating not a smart alternator. In my truck, the output was ~13.9V when cold and dropped down to ~13.4V when warmed up. Amperage will be dependent on the voltage and loads/resistance in the circuit.

 

[jl199986]

I’m considering using a Goal Zero Link in car mode to charge my Yeti Goal Zerp 1500x. Trying to figure out the details, seems a nice way to use something I already have- and incorporate solar and highway charging both,

It senses the voltage to stop pulling when the car is off. Wired to the battery I believe. If voltage is too low it doesn’t draw. If it senses running will charge even up to 700W.

This seems like a great, & easy setup for power. & have panels either folding or on the roof- although reallly, if I have alternator charging on the move. Then why use the roof for panels if I only use solar when stopped? Just fold out the briefcase panels.

Feedback welcome.

 

[BloggerL]

I’m considering using a Goal Zero Link in car mode to charge my Yeti Goal Zerp 1500x. Trying to figure out the details, seems a nice way to use something I already have- and incorporate solar and highway charging both,

It senses the voltage to stop pulling when the car is off. Wired to the battery I believe. If voltage is too low it doesn’t draw. If it senses running will charge even up to 700W.

This seems like a great, & easy setup for power. & have panels either folding or on the roof- although reallly, if I have alternator charging on the move. Then why use the roof for panels if I only use solar when stopped? Just fold out the briefcase panels.

Feedback welcome.

With the updated cable (last version was recalled due to a loose fitting), that worked well for me--until I added an expansion tank, which uses the same input at the rear of the 1500x. Good option when used by itself. bad option if you ever add an expansion tank.

 

[Lester did that]

The best upgrade for an alternator in a LC would be a sealed water cooled unit. They are not "smart" but do provide a constant volt charge. Practically indestructible. But the down side is cost. About 2k US money plus a complicated install. Mining companies outfit all of their fleets with these bad boys.

200 Series Landcruiser Rapid Power Brushless Water-Cooled Alternator 14V 200A | Alternator

Fully sealed, water-cooled alternator For Toyota Landcruiser 200 Series This alternator is designed for prolonged service in extremely dusty, wet and corrosive environments. Perth Pro auto electric parts

perthpro.com.au

Check out Redarch's battery management systems. You don't need a heavy duty alternator pushing more power if your Aux system is set up proper.

 

[FrazzledHunter]

I’m considering using a Goal Zero Link in car mode to charge my Yeti Goal Zerp 1500x. Trying to figure out the details, seems a nice way to use something I already have- and incorporate solar and highway charging both,

It senses the voltage to stop pulling when the car is off. Wired to the battery I believe. If voltage is too low it doesn’t draw. If it senses running will charge even up to 700W.

This seems like a great, & easy setup for power. & have panels either folding or on the roof- although reallly, if I have alternator charging on the move. Then why use the roof for panels if I only use solar when stopped? Just fold out the briefcase panels.

Feedback welcome.

The car charging units weren't available when I got the 1500X so I made my own and saved some $ too.

To charge the 1500X I use a Victron Orion Smart Charger 12/24 15A configured as power supply. It's connected to an Anderson SB-50 plug which runs through the driver's side firewall straight to a 50A breaker and then to the starting battery. With the Orion, The Yeti charges at 360+ watts which is 3X more wattage than the 120V wall unit using the 8mm input port that it ships with. The Orion can be configured to stop & resume charging at any voltage you wish to prevent over-discharge of the starter battery. You could get fancy and connect the Orion's on/off cable to IGN I suppose.

I also have a Redarc BCDC 1225D that charges an Odyssey Group 31 AGM both of which are mounted in the engine bay on the passenger's side. I've had it installed for 2 years and have had no problems with the Redarc or the AGM battery whatsoever. This gives me the ability to charge my 2nd battery and the Yeti 1500X via solar.

This is the most basic unmounted setup for the Victron Orion. Anderson SB-50 in and Anderson PP-45 out to the Yeti 1500X.
This allows me to connect the Victron to ANY 12V power source using battery clamps or other connectors on an extension cable compatible with Anderson.
Note I went further and mounted the Orion to a board with a blower.
I then bungee-strap it to the Yeti 1500X when driving.

 

[mep1811]

So has anyone actually upgraded the alternator? I have the Australian booster "fuse" that tricks my stock alternator to produce more voltage.

 

[Bunga]

Hunter, we have really similar setups. It looks like you have the Starter/main feeding the fridge. And, the 35 accessory battery is isolated from that path. Wouldn't you want to pull from the 35 to the fridge and leave the main off of the Yeti circuit? That way you could use the solar priority, support the 35 at the right AGM voltage, and then feed the Yeti Li? I went that route, but with a blue sea switch downstream of the redarc so I could feed the agm or Li and change the charge rate appropriately.

You are almost at a switchable jumpstart/winch circuit already, how about a switch between Main and the AGM +?

 

[FrazzledHunter]

Hunter, we have really similar setups. It looks like you have the Starter/main feeding the fridge. And, the 35 accessory battery is isolated from that path. Wouldn't you want to pull from the 35 to the fridge and leave the main off of the Yeti circuit? That way you could use the solar priority, support the 35 at the right AGM voltage, and then feed the Yeti Li? I went that route, but with a blue sea switch downstream of the redarc so I could feed the agm or Li and change the charge rate appropriately.

You are almost at a switchable jumpstart/winch circuit already, how about a switch between Main and the AGM +?

Hey thanks for the post and I get great ideas in here, btw. That's how this all started!

This whole thing has turned out to be an evolution. It all started when I had the trailer brake controller installed and I had the installers throw in the Anderson SB50 on the driver's side as an after-thought thinking I might use it for something. Then I added the 2nd battery just in case I ever ran down the starter battery. Then I got the Yeti & Dometic. And so evolution has produced an Armadillo!

To answer your question yes I would like to run from the 2nd battery and I do plan to add a SB50 to inside on the passenger side as well as a USB/cigarette lighter panel to run stuff like dash cams and communication radios. I could then run the Dometic off the 2nd battery - but for not nearly as long as from the Yeti. But I would not want to charge the Yeti via the 2nd battery - see below.

Re "blue sea switch downstream of the Redarc so I could feed the agm or Li "
That's pretty cool so you can accommodate 2 kinds of batteries with one Redarc.
But if the goal would be to charge the Yeti with the 2nd battery then I'm not so sure, at least with my Redarc 1225D. The Yeti needs 14V (I have the Orion set to 24V) at a minimum to charge so would the 1225D Redarc be able to safely charge it without the Orion as a current limiter? The thing to consider is that the Yeti is also a beast and sucks as much power as you can throw at it up to 600+W. 600W @14V is 43A so my Redarc could be constantly maxed dependent on the load on the Yeti. I think I'd run the risk of burning up my 1225D, frankly.

As a practical matter charging the Yeti off the car should really only happen with the motor running so running off the starter battery is OK I think - I have the Orion calibrated so that it switches off in seconds after the engine stops. I can charge the Yeti directly from the 2nd battery but I'd only do that if the yeti was low and I needed the yeti's inverter; otherwise just run whatever straight off 2nd battery.
Note I have experimented with charging the Yeti from the 2nd battery using the Orion with the engine off, just to see how far the 2nd battery would last. It doesn't charge the Yeti by very much before becoming dangerously discharged.

Re the switchable jump start. I considered that but decided against it due to complexity and even if I had it I'd still feel I'd need jumper cables. I've already jump started my wife's car and a few others off the Odyssey 35.

 

[VooDoo2]

The best upgrade for an alternator in a LC would be a sealed water cooled unit. They are not "smart" but do provide a constant volt charge. Practically indestructible. But the down side is cost. About 2k US money plus a complicated install. Mining companies outfit all of their fleets with these bad boys.

Check out Redarch's battery management systems. You don't need a heavy duty alternator pushing more power if your Aux system is set up proper.

Redarc does boost the voltage a little but its VERY low amps. 25-50a MAX but a decent alternator can charge at 200a. Over here in AU we have underbonnet lithiums and run a LOT of high demand devices. Not only wont a stock alternator do this but a AGM doesnt have the sustained discharge rates to run things like airfryers and induction cook tops.

Engine OFF, Cranking, Idle then driving off.


Im the distributor for Rapidpower and the 4.7/5.7 (2UZ) has been developed but not yet the UR engine.



De'Longhi Coffee Machine into Landcruiser Part 2 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPz3Rw9Vntw

 

[Bunga]

Thanks Hunter, that makes a lot of sense. I'll wire up my system and share my findings.

VooDoo: Rapidpower has a lot of fans here, but the pricing is high. The location of the alt in the 200 is terrible and we do need a solution. We don't really see lithium starting batteries in the US. That seems like a built-in market for anyone who wanted to try. There are a ton of lame CCP batteries but for $500 usd and no warranty service, doesn't seem worth it.

 

[VooDoo2]

Thanks Hunter, that makes a lot of sense. I'll wire up my system and share my findings.

VooDoo: Rapidpower has a lot of fans here, but the pricing is high. The location of the alt in the 200 is terrible and we do need a solution. We don't really see lithium starting batteries in the US. That seems like a built-in market for anyone who wanted to try. There are a ton of lame CCP batteries but for $500 usd and no warranty service, doesn't seem worth it.

Price is high on good gear, we do drive landcruisers for that reason. Id love a Rapidpower / Lithium distributor over there as i think they would go crazy. Huge market for someone willing to invest.

 

[Lester did that]

Redarc does boost the voltage a little but its VERY low amps. 25-50a MAX but a decent alternator can charge at 200a. Over here in AU we have underbonnet lithiums and run a LOT of high demand devices. Not only wont a stock alternator do this but a AGM doesnt have the sustained discharge rates to run things like airfryers and induction cook tops.

Engine OFF, Cranking, Idle then driving off.


Im the distributor for Rapidpower and the 4.7/5.7 (2UZ) has been developed but not yet the UR engine.



De'Longhi Coffee Machine into Landcruiser Part 2 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPz3Rw9Vntw

Those lithium's are just starting to make it to the States. Or I should say people are becoming aware that there is another option besides a deep cycle marine or AGM. Redarc makes awesome DC/DC chargers and management systems that have a program for lithium batteries. They recognize no volts for a completely drained lithium battery and will still charge. If you have a less tech savy DC/DC charger/management system then you have to "jump" the lithium battery to get it charging again within a simple set up. But yeah 100amp hours is a full 100amp hours unlike an AGM. Proper marketing. Steady current as well. Easier to maintain over the long haul as well 3-4x the cost for the right lithium battery over an AGM. About $1k plus for a 100amp hour battery here.

I swore off every doing a dual battery set up. My wife needs to work all the time and needs to run her computer 8-12 hours a day and charge multiple things and needs light when it get dark. We just bit the bullet. Redarc manager 30, all the plumbing and an Amptron 100amp hour. It was a nut to spend for amazing power. It came in around $3750. But it's smooth power no current drop. And versatile. Solar, AGM, lithium, plug in at home 120v. Yep it runs an air fryer and a large induction cooker.

Stock alternator.

 

[VooDoo2]

Redarc have a 2hr charge limit though so even thier biggest BCDC wont charge a lithium very quickly or properly. They also have limited solar input so I tend to use Victron for solar if needed (in caravans and campers) and charge at 150-200a direct from alternator for the lithiums. The manager30 was a great bit of gear 10yrs ago but 30a is way to small and limiting these days. i do like redvision though.