Alternator removal - serious PITA (1 Viewer)

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kcjaz

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So I as part of a re-base lining PM project where I am replacing water pump and most of the rotating parts on the front I have decided to replace the alternator as part of the project mostly because I've been told it is difficult to get to, and just looking at where it is it is clear "this ain't no Chevy Tahoe" where it is on top and takes 5 minutes to remove. Plan A was to remove the radiator to gain better access and make things easier (I already have replaced the rad so no need to change it now). I started the work today and thought, "I wonder how hard removing the alternator really is? Why don't I just try doing it per the FSM procedure. If I ever need to do a trail repair/replacement, having done it in my garage before would be pretty beneficial.

Well, I spent about 2 hours just figuring out how to get to the vane pump mounting bolts that must be removed so you can (I think) push it out of the way enough to get to the alternator from side through the fender. I got the bolts out but it sure doesn't seem like I'm really going to be able to get the alternator out with just doing that. I'm sure it is possible but the FSM isn't quite detailed enough (at least for me) and doesn't tell you the best way to get to the things you need to get a socket on. It will take me an entire day and I'm not really sure I could do it without draining the radiator and at least getting some hoses out of the way. Pulling the radiator sure seems like it would be faster, even if all you were trying to get to was the alternator. I also am having a hard time seeing how to get the serpentine belt back on without moving some stuff out of the way. I know it is possible as I got it off but jeez, this thing is tight.
 
Interested in how you get there, I previewed some you tube tundra changes on the 5.7 and they went thru the top, fan and if I recall radiator.
i am hoping for the petrol water cooled option to be a reality so I only have to do this once.
 
You don’t have to take the radiator out and you likely will not be able to just push the power steering out the way. I did this job a few weeks back. Search alternator whine
It has to come out the bottom so you will have to completely disassemble power steering and remove lower radiator hose.
 
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Oh and that pressure hose on the PS pump is likely going to give you some trouble and it’s a $300+ hose assembly if you **** it up
 
Thanks. Looking at it I’m doubtful it will come out over the frame rail but I did find a Tundra video where a guy did get it out that way. It looked pretty similar.
The FSM says to also remove the oil cooler tube. Would like to see if that could be avoided. I’m trying to imagine doing this on a trail.

Edit: looks like FSM is only saying to remove the two bolts holding the hard oil cooler tube in place.
 
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That may not be a great comparison. I have a tundra and a land cruiser, and while the motor is the same 5.7, the engine bays are quite different. In the Tundra there is more open space, there are fewer hoses and accessories, and more room to work between the engine and the sheet metal.
 
I think I watched that video also, and if it is the same one, he doesn’t actually show you that it comes over the rail. Trust me I tried really hard to not pull the PS and radiator hose before I caved and did everything. This is not a trail repair you want to ever deal with. Do it before hand if you think it’s going out
 
I think I watched that video also, and if it is the same one, he doesn’t actually show you that it comes over the rail. Trust me I tried really hard to not pull the PS and radiator hose before I caved and did everything. This is not a trail repair you want to ever deal with. Do it before hand if you think it’s going out
Yeah, you're right, the guy doesn't actually show him pulling it out or putting it back in. Its currently giving me no issues, I have just decided to replace it with a new OEM one as part of my 150K PM and will probably have to old one rebuilt for a spare. I'm paranoid about water getting to it due to its poor location and being stranded out in the boonies so I thought I'd carry the spare with me to be prepared. After seeing how difficult it is ,in my garage, with all my tools, not sure carrying everything I'd need to do the repair is really practical.

If the alternator failed, would the truck keep running until the battery ran down?
 
Well I got it out. No way will the alternator ever go out over the frame rail. I pulled the radiator to “make things easy”. Fan mounting nuts had been jacked up from prior work done at dealer so I spent about an hour and a half filling the nuts flat so I could get a wrench on them. After the radiator was out the rest was “easy” and only took me 4 hours to get the PS pump and alt out. Even with the PS pump and radiator out, getting the alt out is a bear.
Edit: adding pic of extracted alternator. Just 3 bolts and a nut...

ABEB8B57-86E5-4AC7-B4B2-1AEBE90C8509.jpeg


shot with PS pump out and PS hogh pressure line and pressure sensor pulled out of the way:

5F8AB4F7-1C83-4320-91A4-FDB58678BFAC.jpeg
 
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I'm paranoid about water getting to it due to its poor location and being stranded out in the boonies so I thought I'd carry the spare with me to be prepared. After seeing how difficult it is ,in my garage, with all my tools, not sure carrying everything I'd need to do the repair is really practical.

If the alternator failed, would the truck keep running until the battery ran down?

concur. You do not want this to happen.


1388eun.jpg


My truck limped 100 miles and almost made it home before it would no longer run. Do not recommend.
 
concur. You do not want this to happen.


1388eun.jpg


My truck limped 100 miles and almost made it home before it would no longer run. Do not recommend.

Is it the best way the attach these trucks to the flatbed? I can only imagine how much it dances in the flatbed truck.

Alternative would be via tow points on the frame front & rear?

EDIT: Perhaps it is. Pulling down on suspension, particularly AHC might not be the best approach...
 
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Is it the best way the attach these trucks to the flatbed? I can only imagine how much it dances in the flatbed truck.

Alternative would be via tow points on the frame front & rear?

EDIT: Perhaps it is. Pulling down on suspension, particularly AHC might not be the best approach...
What makes you think the suspension cycling on a flatbed is a bad thing on any Cruiser?
 
Is it the best way the attach these trucks to the flatbed? I can only imagine how much it dances in the flatbed truck.

Alternative would be via tow points on the frame front & rear?

EDIT: Perhaps it is. Pulling down on suspension, particularly AHC might not be the best approach...
I’m honestly not sure. The truck made it to the garage safe and sound.
 
What makes you think the suspension cycling on a flatbed is a bad thing on any Cruiser?

Yeah, I am thinking it might be better the let the truck's suspension work, rather then squishing it and locking it down by attaching the straps/chains to the frame....
 
Yeah, I am thinking it might be better the let the truck's suspension work, rather then squishing it and locking it down by attaching the straps/chains to the frame....
From what I have seen, strapping down the axles or tires with baskets is the most common method but either work. Googled it and found this:

How to Tie Down a Vehicle.
 
Yeah, I am thinking it might be better the let the truck's suspension work, rather then squishing it and locking it down by attaching the straps/chains to the frame....
The main times I've see straps running to the frame and compressing suspension is on trail rigs. That's because usually they have a lot of suspension travel along with soft suspension so they rock back and forth quite a bit and can transfer to making the trailer feel unstable.
Even a lifted 200 doesn't have anywhere near enough suspension wallow to warrant compressing it down.
 
If the alternator failed, would the truck keep running until the battery ran down?
Yes.

If you knew it failed you could obviously try to cut down on electronics as much as possible to extend the run time. If you were with others on a trail you could swap batteries as well - put their good one in your truck and run that down while they recharge yours.

I wouldn't worry so much about an alternator stranding you, unless you wheel solo in places which are extremely remote. Though I know it's possible to bypass I'm typically more worried about losing my starter when I'm solo... enough so that I've occasionally left my truck running when parked someplace remote (on a trail where I've not seen anyone else)
 
Yes.

If you knew it failed you could obviously try to cut down on electronics as much as possible to extend the run time. If you were with others on a trail you could swap batteries as well - put their good one in your truck and run that down while they recharge yours.

I wouldn't worry so much about an alternator stranding you, unless you wheel solo in places which are extremely remote. Though I know it's possible to bypass I'm typically more worried about losing my starter when I'm solo... enough so that I've occasionally left my truck running when parked someplace remote (on a trail where I've not seen anyone else)
How long have you left it idling before?
 
How long have you left it idling before?
Maybe 20-30 minutes. I wouldn't idle it all day or if I can't see the truck, since someone could jump in and drive off (though without they key they couldn't restart it). But we stopped for lunch driving through the washes near the river in Big Bend NP, and drove out to the Colorado River overlook in Canyonlands NP (and then hiked out the last 500' or so) and both times I hadn't seen another soul for hours and didn't want to chance a 10 mile hike in the desert in August to go find a road.

I've got 110k miles on my truck now so really this is fairly low risk. But the rest of our time we spend in the city where trips are very short, so we do a LOT of stop/start cycles, and consequently I suspect my starter has much more wear on it than someone with 200k miles who commutes 40 miles a day.
 

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