Dead alternator? (1 Viewer)

[bloc]

The locating sleeves are on all the images I can find of a new or reman 3URFE long block or timing cover. I've dealt with intimate details of enough toyotas to state they didn't intend for them to come out, so many installing alternators wouldn't even notice. But for @Bryanmc they got seized into the alternator ears, and his difficulty removing the alternator was basically trying to pull the sleeves out of the timing cover.

Ugh. I'm going to have to be convinced. That's not a journey I want to repeat...

What do you think are the potential issues? Everything *seems* to be ok, if the alternator isn't aligned perfectly what could happen? It's been running well the last two days, the belt looks ok currently.

Even a small misalignment can put more tension on one side of the belt than the other, leading to odd wear. Really if you stay on top of the belt you should know if you are having issues.. but the problem is if the belt decides to go quick for some reason, that stops your water pump. You'll know right away since you'll also lose alternator and power steering.. but that's not great either. And that's if the belt doesn't wrap itself around everything when it lets go.

Basically, if you got it right, you got lucky. The other holes may have been tight enough to get you close.. but if you really want it right and to not have to worry about it, the sleeves must go back.

 

[Cruisin911]

Interesting. I probably didnt pay close enough attention then. Good to know.

 

[Bryanmc]

I suppose I couldn’t have expected everything to go perfectly. I’ve got a fairly significant power steering fluid leak coming from where I detached and reattached this hose to the pump (see pic).

I may have not put the connection back correctly, I may have damaged the hose, who knows.

Any thoughts?

 

[bloc]

I suppose I couldn’t have expected everything to go perfectly. I’ve got a fairly significant power steering fluid leak coming from where I detached and reattached this hose to the pump (see pic).

I may have not put the connection back correctly, I may have damaged the hose, who knows.

Any thoughts?

View attachment 3594400

Did you use a new crush washer around the banjo fitting for the line? Ensure both the top and bottom parts of the old crush washer were removed before reinstall? They like to stick to the banjo fitting and you don't want two layers of the washer on top or bottom, only one.

That fitting threads into a hex nut that is part of the overpressure bleed system in the pump.. and the lower hex does unbolt from the pump. It's not uncommon for that to come loose when you initially loosen the banjo nut through the fitting. If that's the leak it'll be coming from the interface between the lower hex and the pump body itself, and that has an o-ring to seal the fluid back.

You can sometimes tell this part is loose if the whole line and nut and everything will turn even with the upper banjo bolt tight. Or, loosen the upper nut, remove the line, and make sure the lower nut is tight going into the pump. Even if it ended up snug, having disturbed the o-ring could cause it to leak.

The lower nut into the pump body should be 51ft-lbf. I don't see a part number for just the o-ring, but a seal kit for the whole pump should include it and that's 04446-60260

The hollow bolt through the banjo fitting is 37ft-lbf. Crush washer is 44327-30040

 

[nwfl4runner]

The locating sleeves are on all the images I can find of a new or reman 3URFE long block or timing cover. I've dealt with intimate details of enough toyotas to state they didn't intend for them to come out, so many installing alternators wouldn't even notice. But for @Bryanmc they got seized into the alternator ears, and his difficulty removing the alternator was basically trying to pull the sleeves out of the timing cover.

View attachment 3592043



Even a small misalignment can put more tension on one side of the belt than the other, leading to odd wear. Really if you stay on top of the belt you should know if you are having issues.. but the problem is if the belt decides to go quick for some reason, that stops your water pump. You'll know right away since you'll also lose alternator and power steering.. but that's not great either. And that's if the belt doesn't wrap itself around everything when it lets go.

Basically, if you got it right, you got lucky. The other holes may have been tight enough to get you close.. but if you really want it right and to not have to worry about it, the sleeves must go back.

Yup they are pressed into the cover and locate the alternator lower 2 bolts.

 

[Bryanmc]

New crush washer ordered, will see if that takes care of it. As best I can tell the leak isn't coming from the lower hex bolt.

 

[Bryanmc]

The hollow bolt through the banjo fitting is 37ft-lbf. Crush washer is 44327-30040

New washer seems to have fixed it. Thanks for the part number and torque specs!

 

[bloc]

New washer seems to have fixed it. Thanks for the part number and torque specs!

Yessir. Glad it’s sorted.