Alternator altering (1 Viewer)

[Output Shaft]

From RockAuto on 1/8/2015

 

[Spike Strip]

Yes, there's plenty of these Alt's out there, it's just the OEM (Denso) remans are drying up, if that makes any difference. However, some of the reboxed may be the ND reman's. Dunno. The Denso boxed say they're reman'd in Japan, but who knows...

 

[micruz60]

Probably reman'd here in the USA,
Denso in Maryville, Tennessee

 

[Weber Sarge]

Has anyone tried adapting the later model (such '08) Tacoma 140a alt/with tow package onto a 2F ? The foot pattern looks as though it will fit , just not sure about swapping out the pulley and shaft size/case offsets ....?
Sarge

 

[Coolerman]

If someone does try it, send me a pic of the connector. I will see if I can locate one.

 

[Weber Sarge]

I'm tempted , just hate to rip it off my near-perfect , running , unscratched truck ...lol .
Sarge

 

[TS888]

Not to be a complete blasphemer, but... It's dead simple to swap to a GM alternator. I'm running a 105a form some Buick or Pontiac or something. I think I posted something about it when I swapped it. If I remember I will search for it.

 

[Weber Sarge]

I know there's GM units that can be used - always the universal go-to in swaps due to being plentiful . I'd like to keep it all Toyota just to avoid the small mis-matching that most run into such as pulleys , brackets , ect .
Sarge

 

[Yellow Jacket]

@Coolerman @FJ40Jim how does one avoid frying the ammeter when doing this upgrade to a 40? Do you bypass the ammeter meaning it is no longer getting a reading? I want to keep a working gauge to see the system is operating properly.

I'm replacing a prestolite 130A one wire from my PO. I need to see if he left any part of the original harness in place. Probably not and I'm opening a huge can of worms. Ah, the "fun" od de-POing my rig continues....

 

[Output Shaft]

The '60/'62 meter in the gauge cluster is a volt meter, not an amp meter. It doesn't care how powerful the alternator is.... & come to think of it, it doesn't really care about anything,,

 

[Yellow Jacket]

Sorry guys. Didn't realize I was in the 60 forum. Just did a search and didn't pay attention to the forum. Great tech none-the-less and I think I can still use @Coolerman products on my 40- just need to figure out the ammeter question on my 40 first.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Ugrading a 76 FJ40 from the mechanical regulated 40A alt to the IC 60A alt doesn't pose any significant threat to the ammeter. The ammeter will only pass as much juice as the battery is willing to accept.

 

[Coolerman]

The only real danger here is if you have a dead battery, jump start the truck, then let the 60 amp alternator try to charge the dead battery. It will try to charge the battery at maximum current as there is nothing in the system to limit it. This is especially true of AGM type batteries.

You can still do the swap, just don't try to charge a dead battery with the alternator. Use a battery charger to get it charged or swap in a good battery. If you wanted to get really anal, you could put a switch capable of handling 60 amps across the amp meter that would bypass it during charging.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I run the output of my FJ60 alternator through the stock ammeter on my FJ40. The bus bar in the ammeter is pretty stout and I've had no problems even with a discharged battery. It will peg the ammeter to the + side after the fridge has run the battery down over a couple of days. I don't know how fast the battery can really accept charge, but 60 amps is not much current, and the solid bar that carries it through the ammeter is up to the task.

With that said, I would not want to put 100+ amps through it.

 

[Yellow Jacket]

Thanks for the insights guys. I was actually thinking of skipping the 60A version and jumping to the 80A 3FE upgrade discussed earlier in this thread. I assume the same issues apply and I'm just taking a larger risk of killing the gauge if I have a dead battery. I have a nice battery charger though, so I should be able to avoid that scenario unless I'm away from the house.

 

[Pinittowinit]

Man I love it. I had to cut of a corner of the alt fan, and the rad fan. Just mark it pulled it off and cut it. Done. It's nice to have the buzzer gone and the damn parking brake light bleed over. And of course coolerman's adaptor plug. Simple as pie

 

[John McVicker]

You need a shorter belt. Your belt looks loose and you appear to be out of adjustment room.

John

 

[Pinittowinit]

Nope and nope. Belt us plenty tight and I still have at least 5 rotations on the adjustment. If it does run out I can always extend the adjustment on the bracket

 

[FJ40Jim]

Just as a data point: swapping on the single groove pulley from the 2F alternator will negate the need to trim the trailing edge of the radiator fan.

 

[TX_TLC]

View attachment 1049566 View attachment 1049567 View attachment 1049568 View attachment 1049569 View attachment 1049570 Man I love it. I had to cut of a corner of the alt fan, and the rad fan. Just mark it pulled it off and cut it. Done. It's nice to have the buzzer gone and the damn parking brake light bleed over. And of course coolerman's adaptor plug. Simple as pie

Any pictures of the modification to the tensioner arm bracket?
Thanks!