Alternator altering

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@gregnash, nice setup - pretty much what I was thinking.

OK, 90A alternator (with internal fan) finally came in at O'reilly. Looks like it's not plug and play - the mounting ears are 2" apart (inside to inside) vs the ~3" on the original 60A and 80A. @NookShneer , think you were hinting at that above? Pic attached shows the 80A compared to the 90A. Anyway, figure there's no need to go through a bunch of fab work unless I were going to upgrade to a GM unit. Just ordered a stocker AC Delco reman 55/60A with 10 o'clock VR (as seen from the back) ACDELCO PROFESSIONAL - Reman Alternator - Part Number: 334-1599 - Dave's Discount Auto Parts | www.davesdiscountautoparts.com/. We'll see if it actually shows up.

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@gregnash, nice setup - pretty much what I was thinking.

OK, 90A alternator (with internal fan) finally came in at O'reilly. Looks like it's not plug and play - the mounting ears are 2" apart (inside to inside) vs the ~3" on the original 60A and 80A. @NookShneer , think you were hinting at that above? Pic attached shows the 80A compared to the 90A. Anyway, figure there's no need to go through a bunch of fab work unless I were going to upgrade to a GM unit. Just ordered a stocker AC Delco reman 55/60A with 10 o'clock VR (as seen from the back) ACDELCO PROFESSIONAL - Reman Alternator - Part Number: 334-1599 - Dave's Discount Auto Parts | www.davesdiscountautoparts.com/. We'll see if it actually shows up.

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the mounting difference was what I was afraid of. The 80 amp external fan works no problem. Get the cooler man plug and swap the belt or adjust the adjustment arm by welding and your done.
 
The only real danger here is if you have a dead battery, jump start the truck, then let the 60 amp alternator try to charge the dead battery. It will try to charge the battery at maximum current as there is nothing in the system to limit it. This is especially true of AGM type batteries.

You can still do the swap, just don't try to charge a dead battery with the alternator. Use a battery charger to get it charged or swap in a good battery. If you wanted to get really anal, you could put a switch capable of handling 60 amps across the amp meter that would bypass it during charging. ;)

I know this is an older thread. But what exactly do you mean by putting a switch across the amp meter? Would that allow it to function properly under 30 amps? (since in my case I have the older style) Or will I effectively be bypassing it altogether, making it relatively useless?
 
Putting a switch parallel with the ammeter.
When the switch is open, all charge current must go through the meter.
When switch is closed, current can go through meter or switch. If they both have zero resistance, then current would be 1/2 through the meter and 1/2 through switch.
 
Ill add my 2cents.

Local alternatoe rebuilder here in Dallas advised they can rebuild my stock 55A alternator to @75A for around $100.00. I like this thread, and also it appeals to me to keep alt n wiring stock. Cost is same, which one?:wrench::)
 
@TexasBlue you can get "almost the same" amps without and fab work.

I'd just get the 55amp reworked to 75amps. It would cut out, extra wiring/other modifications and make it drop in ready.

He should get a bunch of 2F/3FE alt cores and post up here the cost of the re-worked ones.

I'm sure a fair amount of people would be interested in a little more output with out having to modify stuff.
 
Putting a switch parallel with the ammeter.
When the switch is open, all charge current must go through the meter.
When switch is closed, current can go through meter or switch. If they both have zero resistance, then current would be 1/2 through the meter and 1/2 through switch.

My ignorance will really shine through here. Is this any kind of switch, or a special kind of switch? Does this opening and closing work automatically behind the scenes? Or is it a manual process where I turn the switch off and on depending on if I think the alternator will be putting out more than 30 amps? Anyone have a picture of an example?
 
Texasblue do you have name and number of shop who will rework the alternator? Called two places local to me and they weren’t interested in rewiring older alternators. They said, better to mod something in.
 
Not sure if it has been mentioned....but most auto electrical systems can benefit from larger gage power and ground cables at the battery and to things like the alternator and starter. In some cases going to a 2 or 4 gage welding cable setup is like getting 5-10 more amps because of the improved efficiency.
 
Great photos and write up @NookShneer - I have the 3FE 80A and the Coolerman adapter mocked up for clearance check.
This is the fuse type that I ended up running Amazon.com: Blue Sea Systems 100-300A MEGA/AMG Fuse Block with Cover: Sports & Outdoors
Directly line from alt to fuse, fuse to battery.
Untitled by Greg Fisicaro, on Flickr

@gregnash did you take the ring terminal from original B+ and connect to the battery post instead? I’m aiming to do the same upgraded charging lead.
 
Just completed the 3FE upgrade for my 1985 F2 engine and it looks like I am getting 13.5 volts at idle. In dash volt meter show needle pegged almost in the middle of the gauge - maybe a hair to the negative side. When all lights are turned on, it dips to more on the negetive side. But meter show charging at 13.5 volts (dual battery set up and both batteries at 100% charge - red tops).

Is this normal or should I be expecting the alternator to put more volts when light are on? Reving engine does note move the gauge at all.
 
Forget the inside gauge which is worthless.

Put a meter on the battery. Report voltage at idle and at 1500 RPM. I'll bet you're fine. Did you have the alt tested before install?

Alternators don't make much power at idle, but should reach full output by 2000 rpm or so. And, if the red tops are not fully charged, the inrust charging current can make the charging voltage look lower than it is. FOr reference, my FJ62 3FE's alternator is set at 14.1 volts. It will dip a bit if the lights are on and the engine is idling.
 
Okay, purchased a meter and I am at 14.2 volts at idle and 13.8 with headlights on - so I think I am good.

A few things about this alternator upgrade, which I learned when installing and reading threads in my 67'FJ40 ... (1) the 3FE alternator has two pulleys which interferes with fan. You will need to use the pully from the old alternator (you will need a three jaw puller set - I picked one up from Harbor Frieght), (2) the alternator fan is larger on the 3FE. I grinded the alternator bracket to allow clearance, (3) the 3FE alternator is clocked differently, so you may need a new fan belt. I needed at 62" fan belt. As an FYI, I measured the size I needed and ordered a fan belt and found the belt has a half inch smaller than specified. This was true for the other two fan belts I ordered before I got the correct fit, (4) I purchase the 3FE alternator plug from coolerman (Alternator Connectors) and it worked great (great vendor, great customer service). Much of this info is included other threads - but I thought a summary might be helpful.
 
I'm not sure this was gone over. Can the Old fan be used on the new Alternator? I was thinking While the pulley was off and swapped you could to the same to the fun instead of grinding the blades down.
 
Okay, purchased a meter and I am at 14.2 volts at idle and 13.8 with headlights on - so I think I am good.

A few things about this alternator upgrade, which I learned when installing and reading threads in my 67'FJ40 ... (1) the 3FE alternator has two pulleys which interferes with fan. You will need to use the pully from the old alternator (you will need a three jaw puller set - I picked one up from Harbor Frieght), (2) the alternator fan is larger on the 3FE. I grinded the alternator bracket to allow clearance, (3) the 3FE alternator is clocked differently, so you may need a new fan belt. I needed at 62" fan belt. As an FYI, I measured the size I needed and ordered a fan belt and found the belt has a half inch smaller than specified. This was true for the other two fan belts I ordered before I got the correct fit, (4) I purchase the 3FE alternator plug from coolerman (Alternator Connectors) and it worked great (great vendor, great customer service). Much of this info is included other threads - but I thought a summary might be helpful.
Is the just one width for the belt so I can just buy a 62" fan belt?
 
Wow, so much information in here! I’m running all 3fe accessories on my 2F and this definitely helped me out.
Does anyone know what vehicles share the same alternator connector with the Fj62/fj80 3fe?
 
This thread helped a bunch when my alternator gave out this weekend! Here's what I did to get the FJ80 alternator to fit without making any mods to the alternator fans or adjustment arm. The stock belt size still works with plenty of adjustment. Still needed to cut off the second belt pulley to clear the radiator fan.

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thought I'd chime in with some input and hopefully simplify this process as it was a bit of a headache sifting through the good information and some bad information. A lil background for my situation. My 55amp alternator was still functioning but I was dealing with some meter pinging and the engine just didn't seem like it was getting the juice it needed electrically. Also I'm planning on installing a dual battery set up soon and felt like the extra amps were needed. I went with a Reman FJ62 Nippon Denso Alternator.

Here's all the parts i gathered for the install.

Alternator- Amazon product ASIN B000ESDH3AFJ62 harness adapter in the back- Alternator Plug Harness Connector Toyota Nippondenso | eBay

Thats it.. I didn't need a shorter belt I was already running this one and it's def tight enough with out modifying the ear adjustor or anything
Bando 62" belt- Amazon product ASIN B002EC2TX8

I swapped the pulley and fan from the old oem unit. Pretty easy task removing with an impact wrench and shimmying off with a flat head screwdriver using the alt as leverage.

You DON'T NEED to do any of the following: shave off fans, get any fancy harnesses, or do this dudes THINGAMAJIGGER above LOL.

Really pleased with the upgrade. Voltage meter sits right around 13.5-14 and engine seems to be a lot happier running smoother or maybe that's just placebo effect.

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Not knowing offhand, whats the amp output on a 3FE FJ62 alt? The link page just shows it as a reman, no actual tech data. Makes a nice alternative for trying to source a replacement 55amp without mods, but just curious how much more oomph (technical term) it shoves into my electrical system.

Glenn in Marana
 

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