Allow me to introduce...."Chunk" (my 60 Build thread)

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Alright, next up...

DiamondRax Low profile 3/4 Cargo Rack - Thanks Greg!
This got Mudshipped from California to Cruise Moab and then to Durango.
Thanks to Greg of DiamondRax, Jerry of Tembo Tusk, Brent & Mark...
All SoCal 80 Guys I think.

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By trapper50cal at 2012-05-22

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By trapper50cal at 2012-05-22

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By trapper50cal at 2012-05-22

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By trapper50cal at 2012-05-22

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By trapper50cal at 2012-05-22

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By trapper50cal at 2012-05-22

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By trapper50cal at 2012-05-22

Two more rack feet still inbound.
Love the Low Profile looks.
 
...And I bought a "parting out" Passenger-side front seat out of an 88 fj62 from Pete...Bike n Board Cruiser on Mud. Same Interior as my 87 fj60.

The old one with the wasted bolster...

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By trapper50cal at 2012-05-22

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By trapper50cal at 2012-05-22

___________________

The pics that I got of the 62 pass. seat pre-purchase...

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By trapper50cal at 2012-05-22

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By trapper50cal at 2012-05-22

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By trapper50cal at 2012-05-22


___________________

Then I cleaned up the new one....

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By trapper50cal at 2012-05-22

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By trapper50cal at 2012-05-22

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By trapper50cal at 2012-05-22


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Then Installed....

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By trapper50cal at 2012-05-22

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By trapper50cal at 2012-05-22

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By trapper50cal at 2012-05-22

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By trapper50cal at 2012-05-22

So the first thing to just accept ( assuming that you don't want to undo all the hog rings and do a full removal of the seat cushion) is that the recline lever will be on the inside by the e-brake. No biggy as far as I'm concerned.

Swapped out the floor brackets which places the lock lever underneath in the original position, which is nice.

What I really like about this passenger to driver swap is the bolster and the pass. side overall condition. The pass. side front seat, as a rule, must get used like 20-30% of the time in comparison to the driver side (in most cases) and the inner bolster of the pass. side is never used as the cusp of the entering/exiting. When you swap it out, the inner bolster becomes the outer bolster. So it's the best possible used bolster replacing the worst and the seat overall is in "less used" condition by a large percentage. There is a lot more cushion life left, feels better (less flattened) and the bolsters still actually hug you a little bit.

Thanks Pete!:beer:
 
Gotta love the seat lower swap trick, use it all the time in 60's and Runners. :)

Looks good, thought about spending $50 on some krylon brown and blend her in? :popcorn:
 
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I've wrestled with what to do about the color.

Option A: Sand down to a good painting surface and rattle can it Krylon Ultra Flat OD Green

Option B: Sand/Bondo then primer, then try to get as close to 4E8 - Light Beige (Desert Bronze) as I can with a single stage paint.

I just can't see myself doing a true Desert Bronze as it is a two-stage with a colored, pearlescent clear. (As I understand it)

If I do option A, then I either sign myself up for a ton of extra sanding and masking to take care of the door jams and inner window frames (unless I am okay with 4E8 jams and a green truck...which I'm not)

If I do option B, I come real close to matching the door jams and inner window frames, only have to spray the outside of the truck, but I have to do more body work, prime it (2 masking jobs) sand and prep the primer then I have a more challenging paint to spray (orange peel, fisheyes, runs and color sanding) and it will cost more.

Tough choice. I love the idea of option B, but I wonder if it's a pipe dream to think I will get the body in good enough shape.
 
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Why not prep yourself and go to one of those cheap paint places to shoot it? Stay with the door jam color to save time and hassle.

If you just gotta have dune beige, it's going to be a ton more work.
 
I'd say option B..

That's what I'm doing now as I have 8B4 and I believe your 4E8 body parts on mine. I've sanded down the exterior and body filled some spots. I just finished scuffing up the jambs and inner door areas on mine. Gonna lay down an epoxy primer and go back with 8B4 color on mine.

I have some areas on my lower panels that aren't gonna be perfect but, I'm going to wheel mine a bit more than my last cruiser. So, I ordered Monstaliner to hide and protect the lower areas on mine. I may even apply liner all the way to the upper door body line. That is if something gets exposed I'm not seeing now after the paint goes on, which is highly possible.

Cruiserdrew has a great point as well. GL

It's looking good Trapper, keep up the good work. I like that roof rack too.

J
 
That rack is über cool!! Super clean looking!

Nice work on the seat!
 
Well, CD is saying Dune Beige which is actually an older color (416)...as mine is 4E8 light beige metallic (Some call it Desert or Champagne Bronze) I won't have to do the door jambs...that paint is still perfect. But I will have to do the sanding, body filler and I think I can shoot the primer myself as well. I'll back tape the doors so that I'm only shooting the exterior.

I'm pretty sure this is the route I'm going to take...I do some design work for a used car dealership and they have a good paint guy (I've seen his work on another fj60) I can do tradeout work for them to augment the cost of him shooting the color. I think I'll buy the single stage equivalent recipe and get everything ready for the guy to just shoot the color (as CD recommends) and do all the easy, "elbow grease" stuff myself to save money.

I'm actually looking forward to getting it back to "original" color and I'm glad the paint store had a recipe for single stage instead of having to shoot the color, pearlescent clear.
 
Those are getting pretty hard to find...

I myself, PM'ed people that had sold them in the past just on the off chance that they knew where one was. I got lucky after 4 or 5 blind attempts. It was ridiculously expensive (unobtainium usually is) then I had Shane of Metric TLc do a re-wrap of new leather. While he had it in his possession, he media blasted it and re-powdercoated it (which was super cool of him seeing as I hadn't expected him to do that) but that was on trade-out for design services (by me for him) in the future. All said and done, it would prob. cost the same as one of my tires to find and recreate that scenario. I just had to have one. There is a guy in vendors market (I think) that is making some similar for less moolah, and of course, there is the regular USA market ones. Those are still available through $OR and other places.
 
Sorry to muddy this up, but on the topic of blind attempts: any of y'all ever see a brown USA style grab bar, pretty please reserve it for me!!!
 
klinetime574 said:
Good to have you back!

Why are you going with rattlecan? All your other LC's were nice and shiny :cool:

Tires look good! I miss my OEM wheels.
Click to expand...

eh hemmm.....
ive seen a few fantastic rattle can jobs on this forum.

nice canvas to start with there trappper
 
YEah, my pig was a rattlecan job, although I wouldn't classify it as fantastic. That thing was a rust bucket.

It IS a nice canvas to start with...not as nice as Ingrid but considerably less rust. I can't wait to get started on the body work and primer.
 
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