Air injection manifold/ air rail replacement

[DFXR]

I recently replaced my ex/int manifold and gasket (along with the egr j-pipe and gasket). Now that I shut that leaky racket the f up, I realize that my air rail is leaking at the rear most junction. Probably has been for a while but I have been fixated on the manifold and j pipe.

Since the air rail is rusty and pitted, I am going to look for a decent used replacement. I have read the air rail threads and (think) I have a grasp of what's involved in replacing, particularly if you aren't trying to save the original rail. Will start soaking with PB as we speak...

My question - what other parts should I source besides a replacement air rail and the front check valve? The rubber air hose is in decent shape. Should I plan (hope) to re-use the nozzles that go into the head?

I'm thinking cruiserparts or Mark's Offroad for a good used rail. Any other suggestions?

 

[Travis 76]

I have An air rail from an FJ 40, I'm not sure if it's the same. I would need to see a picture of yours.

 

[DFXR]

I have An air rail from an FJ 40, I'm not sure if it's the same. I would need to see a picture of yours.

Post number 12 here shows a pristine one (it's been metal plated). What year is the 40 yours came from?

Remove back air rail union

 

[cps432]

Get some crows feet wrenches. The whole thing will come loose and out of the head. It will be rusty AF, but be patient and let the pb blaster soak in. It took me a week or more of gently rocking back and forth and blasting it more and more. Finally it came loose. I would replace that check valve that’s on there too. NAPA has a valve that fits, but the hose end of it is smaller than the original. I’ll try to find the part number for you.

 

[g-man]

I wrung an air injector when trying to remove the air manifold. Caused a bit of downtime but had a fellow mudder mail one to me for free from across the country! So, yes soak with spray lube. Take it easy when it comes to unbolting and Maybe even some heat on it if needed.

 

[cps432]

I would be cautious using heat around that area. If I had to I would have. Just don’t burn your manifold gasket or your valve cover gasket. Probably other rubber to be aware of too if you resort to heat. I haven’t used it, but I hear that kroil is the most badass penetrating oil money can buy. And they do want money for it... however, I made it happen with pb blaster and patience.

 

[Travis 76]

I don't know what year it is. I'll post a picture of the engine vin and the air rail. It is different than the link you showed.

 

[DFXR]

I don't know what year it is. I'll post a picture of the engine vin and the air rail. It is different than the link you showed.

View attachment 1879470

View attachment 1879472

Thanks for the pic. Looks close but not quite. Doesn't have the heat shield built in.

 

[BlackCat]

I also broke mine doing my intake/exhaust gasket. An ill-placed hand looking for leverage broke the front most off. I just used some exhaust repair putty crap on it and it worked great for $8. Just a heads up if you want to fix yours to get rid of the annoying ticking until you source a replacement.

 

[DFXR]

I also broke mine doing my intake/exhaust gasket. An ill-placed hand looking for leverage broke the front most off. I just used some exhaust repair putty crap on it and it worked great for $8. Just a heads up if you want to fix yours to get rid of the annoying ticking until you source a replacement.

Yup, I just did exactly that with the Permatex putty. Kinda shocked that it’s actually working but I’m thinking maybe the air rail is cooler and produces less pressure than the average exhaust part?

Whatever the case, the silence is golden. Hopefully it’ll hold while I look for a replacement.

 

[mongoose2231]

I have a very decent air rail of an FJ60 that I bought long ago to replace mine when I had my gasser. PM me and I will send you some pics.
Cheers.

 

[g-man]

I did the same repair. I used JB weld on the small hole then wrapped it with aluminum strip from a soda can then band clamp with a tiny clamp. Held til I found a new air rail. Take your time and find a solid rust free rail or you'll be doing it again in a couple years.

 

[joebattle1]

That thing is fairly fragile at this point. Mine came in and out multiple times on this last motor go around. I let it soak in PB for a few days before I took the 17mm to it. I cleaned up the hardware on the bolts that go into the head and glazed it with anti-seize going back in.

You may need to remove that metal hose pipe in the rear as the house rides right near it.

 

[DFXR]

^ Sure looks good now, Joe. Did you replace the check valve or just clean and paint?

 

[joebattle1]

@DFXR just cleaned and painted it. It appeared to be in ok shape and I did a make shift pressure test on it with compressed air.

 

[cps432]

Here’s the Napa check valve I used.

Either clamp the heck out of your hose, or slip a short piece of thin walled 5/8?? Hose over the end to make an “adapter” for the larger diameter. I did the latter and it works really well.

 

[DFXR]

Here’s the Napa check valve I used.

View attachment 1880042

View attachment 1880046
Either clamp the heck out of your hose, or slip a short piece of thin walled 5/8?? Hose over the end to make an “adapter” for the larger diameter. I did the latter and it works really well.

THANKS CPS!

 

[DFXR]

I have a very decent air rail of an FJ60 that I bought long ago to replace mine when I had my gasser. PM me and I will send you some pics.
Cheers.

Definitely interested, thanks. Left you a message on your profile page (for some reason I can't send an actual PM).

DF

 

[mongoose2231]

I started a conv. with you via private mess. never got the one on the profile page. Ill be posting some pics of the air rail on here this evening.

 

[DFXR]

Bumping this because I finally got around to doing it...

Replaced my leaky air rail with a good used one.

Used an aftermarket check valve - Intermotor AV8 / 15HVB. Looks basically the same as what @cps432 posted above, and has been noted elsewhere. Thread pitch is correct but the tube side is too small for the stock air hose, so I improvised.

Thanks to everyone who posted in this air rail thread:

Remove back air rail union

I have read every thread I can find regarding removal of the air rail. Blasted each rail union with PB for several days. The top bolt on the union for the first 5 easily turn. Getting a 17mm wrench on the back firewall union has been the challenge. Really want to get this off without...

forum.ih8mud.com

Patience and Kroil, and more patience and more Kroil, and a crow's foot and a cut off 17mm wrench. Got to the rear most union from below/behind with a crow's foot on a u-joint on two extensions. Tiny moves on this back one, as emphasized by @OSS.