AHC replace - need more drop (2 Viewers)

[blackthecrowes]

After cutting out the OEM shocks, then removing the stock springs I can't now get the replacement springs to fit. I have removed the rear drop links, disconnected the rear sway bar but still can't get enough room to install the new rear springs. I am going stock 105 rear springs with no lift, they new springs are exactly the same height as the old ones but I still need about 5 or so inches more drop to be able to get the new springs in place. The brake line is at the limit of extension. I have even tried the evil spring compressors but they won't compress enough. I've done the 'jack up the other side' technique but no better.

All the online explanations never mention the rear bump stops which the spring fits over. If that wasn't there then it would be close - but I can't get enough angle to get the spring to fit over the rubber stop and get close to seating on the isolator and upper mount. Have other people removed that bump stop? Does it just press into the upper mount?

 

[hoser]

To remove the bump stops, It's just one bolt in the center. Cross fingers it's not rusted. The bump stops should be reinstalled with the new springs. Hopefully, you can get a wrench in between the coils to do so.

You can also try unfastening one or both of the brake line brackets to get a little more. Or undue the brake line and rebleed afterwards.

Needing 5 more inches sounds like a lot. You can also carefully put a jack in between the axle and frame and make more space. Watch the hard brake lines that run along the axle though. Your control arm bushings are in tension when lowering the axle. You can loosen them but you have to tighten them at ride height level when you are done.

 

[2001LC]

You should, at this point have tall jack stands under frame, just forward rear lower control arm brackets. With rear shocks and links disconnected.

On the side with drop down brake line. Place jack as close to wheel hub as practical, from floor to under diff. Raise the jack, until diff up as far as possible, without lifting vehicle off frame jack stands.
Place a bottle jack between diff/axle and frame bump stop, on opposite side. Expand bottle jack, until you have the room you need. You'll not need spring compressor on this side. Provide you've tall enough jack stands under frame, that you'll not hit wheel hubs' rotor to floor.

Switch now to other side, with brake drop down brake line. Placing jack under opposite side (side you just installed), near wheel hub under diff.
Also place bottle jack between diff/axle and frame bump stop, on drop down brake line side. Expand bottle jack, untie brake line at limit.

If you still don't have enough room. Use locking strut spring compressor.

 

[blackthecrowes]

You should, at this point have tall jack stands under frame, just forward rear lower control arm brackets. With rear shocks and links disconnected.

On the side with drop down brake line. Place jack as close to wheel hub as practical, from floor to under diff. Raise the jack, until diff up as far as possible, without lifting vehicle off frame jack stands.
Place a bottle jack between diff/axle and frame bump stop, on opposite side. Expand bottle jack, until you have the room you need. You'll not need spring compressor on this side. Provide you've tall enough jack stands under frame, that you'll not hit wheel hubs' rotor to floor.

Switch now to other side, with brake drop down brake line. Placing jack under opposite side (side you just installed), near wheel hub under diff.
Also place bottle jack between diff/axle and frame bump stop, on drop down brake line side. Expand bottle jack, untie brake line at limit.

If you still don't have enough room. Use locking strut spring compressor.

You should, at this point have tall jack stands under frame, just forward rear lower control arm brackets. With rear shocks and links disconnected. Yes

So you are suggesting jacking up one side to get the diff as high as possible, then using a bottle jack on the other to force the hub and spring perch down?

 

[blackthecrowes]

To remove the bump stops, It's just one bolt in the center. Cross fingers it's not rusted. The bump stops should be reinstalled with the new springs. Hopefully, you can get a wrench in between the coils to do so.

You can also try unfastening one or both of the brake line brackets to get a little more. Or undue the brake line and rebleed afterwards.

Needing 5 more inches sounds like a lot. You can also carefully put a jack in between the axle and frame and make more space. Watch the hard brake lines that run along the axle though. Your control arm bushings are in tension when lowering the axle. You can loosen them but you have to tighten them at ride height level when you are done.

the 5 inches is because I can't get the spring vertical enough to get past the bump stop - so it's about 3 inches away from the top mount. If I can get it past the bump stop I think it should go in with a jack as suggested. I will try to unbolt the bump stop as you suggest - cheers

 

[2001LC]

You should, at this point have tall jack stands under frame, just forward rear lower control arm brackets. With rear shocks and links disconnected. Yes

So you are suggesting jacking up one side to get the diff as high as possible, then using a bottle jack on the other to force the hub and spring perch down?

Yes. Use jacks to teeter totter/manipulated the differential.
With vehicle held up by jack stand under the frame, keeping weight of vehicle on jack stand at all times.


I doubt you'll need strut locking spring compressors. But use if you do.

 

[medtro]

I still need about 5 or so inches more drop to be able to get the new springs in place.

You can have more drop by having the other wheel on the ground. It is easier to push the axle down too with the other wheel on the ground.

 

[David310]

How tall are your jack stands? This video helped me. I stacked several 2x6 wood to get my jack stands higher.

 

[blackthecrowes]

You can have more drop by having the other wheel on the ground. It is easier to push the axle down too with the other wheel on the ground.

The wheels are off and it's on axle stands on the frame

How tall are your jack stands? This video helped me. I stacked several 2x6 wood to get my jack stands higher.

that's interesting - it looks like using a jack to really crank the opposite side the springs come right out. I'll try that and add blocks of wood to raise the opposite side - and a bottle jack if necessary to make the side I'm working on drop even lower

Yes. Use jacks to teeter totter/manipulated the differential.
With vehicle held up by jack stand under the frame, keeping weight of vehicle on jack stand at all time.


I doubt you'll need strut locking spring compressors. But use if you do.

I have those too but hate using them - maybe i will compress half an inch or so if needed - cheers

How tall are your jack stands? This video helped me. I stacked several 2x6 wood to get my jack stands higher.

at 2:20 he gets wheel independence which I don't get. When I do that both hubs will rise. He has a panhard bar but no rear sway bar?

 

[hoser]

Maybe a pic or video of your setup would help.

 

[medtro]

The wheels are off and it's on axle stands on the frame

Understood. I thought you asked how to get more drop to install your new spring, or were you asking how to get different result without changing anything?

 

[blackthecrowes]

just an update for anyone interested - I used a bottle jack to force down the axle on the side I was having trouble with plus used spring compressors to shorten the spring about an inch. Worked fine - many thanks