Again: Check your Knuckle-Nuts ;-)
- Thread starter hatzlibutzli
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John McVicker
SILVER Star
Is anyone using safety wire?
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Not that I've ever seen, and I wonder why. On all essential aircraft fasteners it is pretty much mandatory, but not on automotive fasteners that would also present a severe safety issue if they loosen. Wouldn't it make sense to lock wire them? Why wouldn't you?
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i just found out about these could be a good option but i think safety wire would be more secure.
Wits' End Nut Huggers
Now time for something a little different... NOTE: If your knuckle hardware is properly torqued, and not needing a rebuild, there is NO reason to take it apart just to use these. Keep your setup as is until the next rebuild. At this point in 80 Series Land Cruiser ownership you *should* have...
forum.ih8mud.com
I'm in the process of getting all the parts together to do my front axle again, this time with new Longfields and brand new OEM spindles. I'm seriously thinking of lock wiring the steering arm nuts when it all goes back together. Running an 8' Fisher snowplow in the winter is putting some real strain on my front end components and I don't want anything coming loose.
Yeah some wire and the tool is not too expensive plus you can go nuts with safety wire and do more!!!
I imagine the wire job would be subject to corrosion and trail damage, but it is a visually obvious indicator when it has been disturbed and you'd know when to get out the wrenches. Or the Wit's End huggers would probably do a better job of holding everything in place, but I already have all the stuff for safety wiring anyway, so...
CharlieS
GOLD Star
In this situation (installing nuts on a stud) wouldn't you have to get a jig to drill the nuts at an angle? I've only ever done bolt heads and handgrips with safety wire, and it definitely works.
Side question - could you use a paint pen or torque seal to mark the nuts and give a quick visual indication if things have backed out?
Cross Check Torque Seal Tamperproof Indicator Paste, Orange, 1 oz Compatible With Dykem 83314 https://a.co/d/eU20gl5
Side question - could you use a paint pen or torque seal to mark the nuts and give a quick visual indication if things have backed out?
Cross Check Torque Seal Tamperproof Indicator Paste, Orange, 1 oz Compatible With Dykem 83314 https://a.co/d/eU20gl5
Yup, there's little jigs for drilling those offset holes for safety wire, I have some and they work for either bolt heads or nuts. And paint markers like on a few posts back work great for a visual indicator but the marks get removed by brush, sand, ice, mud, or rocks scraping over them, plus they don't provide any retention. Safety wire might get cut, rusted, or scraped off, but as long as it's still there it is keeping things in position.
And when it's broken or missing you know you need to 'check yer nuts.'
And when it's broken or missing you know you need to 'check yer nuts.'
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I had a lot of issues with studs loosening and shearing over the years. A few years ago in Moab I went on the trail in good shape and leaving the trail I had a hard pull to the right. While on the trail things went south. Sheared a stud and lost one as well, all on the passenger side. Constantly checked and tightened for the rest of the trip and during fill ups on the way home.
When I got home I began evaluating the set up and potential solutions. There is a thread on here that outlines my work and my thoughts on why it is happening.
I had some custom studs made and since installing them I've yet to find a loose nut over years of use.
They're on my site and you might consider trying them.
When I got home I began evaluating the set up and potential solutions. There is a thread on here that outlines my work and my thoughts on why it is happening.
I had some custom studs made and since installing them I've yet to find a loose nut over years of use.
They're on my site and you might consider trying them.
Aviation safety wire, called lock-wire is a SS blend. It does not corrode.
This size of fastener would use .040” lock-wire.
"Aviation safety wire, called lock-wire is a SS blend. It does not corrode."
Normally I'd agree with you, but the calcium chloride they are using with the road salt now here in Maine is extraordinarily corrosive. Ridiculously corrosive, in fact. Stainless just lasts a little longer, but even stainless boat parts will corrode here from being trailered around in the winter. I thought aircraft deicer was harsh but it ain't got nothin' on this crap...
Normally I'd agree with you, but the calcium chloride they are using with the road salt now here in Maine is extraordinarily corrosive. Ridiculously corrosive, in fact. Stainless just lasts a little longer, but even stainless boat parts will corrode here from being trailered around in the winter. I thought aircraft deicer was harsh but it ain't got nothin' on this crap...
"Aviation safety wire, called lock-wire is a SS blend. It does not corrode."
Normally I'd agree with you, but the calcium chloride they are using with the road salt now here in Maine is extraordinarily corrosive. Ridiculously corrosive, in fact. Stainless just lasts a little longer, but even stainless boat parts will corrode here from being trailered around in the winter. I thought aircraft deicer was harsh but it ain't got nothin' on this crap...
, they just started in the past few years here with that stuff. I assume that’s what it is. They just use it before the storm hits, liquid they pour on the rd?
It's terrible! I can't even get 3 years out of an exhaust tailpipe, after two winters you can crush the pipe in your hand due to the rust. Stuff should be illegal- how it's not banned as an environmental hazard I will never understand.
I wonder to what extent rust would affect the strength of the steering arm attachment lugs and nuts? It cannot be good for them at all. Would the cone washers make it worse or better? I didn't notice any pitting down inside the tapered areas when I had mine apart last time, but I'll be checking very closely this time.
I wonder to what extent rust would affect the strength of the steering arm attachment lugs and nuts? It cannot be good for them at all. Would the cone washers make it worse or better? I didn't notice any pitting down inside the tapered areas when I had mine apart last time, but I'll be checking very closely this time.
Whack the fluid film to that area after, or better yet, LPS HardCoat
They work great! One crucial thing is to keep the speed up when your drilling. The little drill bits snap easily and if you slow down before you just go fully through they snap.
My experience anyways
yes thanks for the tip on the drill bits my hand cordless drill won't go fast enough I may have to invest in a drill press of some sort.
mudgudgeon
Resident galah
The threaded jig doesn't have provision for some of the JIS fasteners you'll find on a Toyota
