Advice on what locker to use (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 17, 2007
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Location
Austin,Colorado
I need help with what locker to install in the rear of my 76 fj40. I was thinking about a Detroit Locker. I think I want to stay away from a limited slip(LS). Any opinions on Auburn versus Detroit or Lockrite. I am confused on what to do. I know there will be a lot of opinions out there. I apologize for asking this question as it may have already been asked. I need any info that is out there. Where to buy, best price etc. Thanks in advance on any info. Please feel free to PM me.:banana:Alan
 
Aussie locker ?

I like ARBs myself :meh:
 
If you are staying inexpensive and simple (no selectable lockers like ARB or e-lockers) then I suggest the upgrade to the Lockright, the EZ Locker. Much more humane that the Lockright and only a little more expensive.
I had an Auburn LSD in the rear of my '68 and moved it up front for an EZ locker. The Auburn has "slipped" when the wheels are jammed up rockcrawling, but it's nice for driving in 4W Hi. I have a Lockright up front of my '64 and 4W Hi is more sketchy steering at speed.

Either way, it's not going to drive as nice as if you could turn them off for highways.
 
I'm going with 2 aussie's . Correct me if I'm wrong but with your hubs unlocked one should not even know you have a locker in the front when highway/ in town driving. You will just feel it in the rear a little when going around turns.
 
I have heard the noise that comes from the Aussie, so I am going ARB. With the free compressor deal they have going, it just makes sense.
 
I have a Detroit in the rear of mine and it rarely makes any noise. A bunch of our members run Aussie lockers with great success. Some are noisy some are not. I guess it depends on the set up. The aussie is definately a cheaper option than the Detroit or the ARB.
 
Caper, you are right about not feeling the front locker if the hubs are out and you are in 2WD on normal highway conditions.

However, when you drive 4Hi due to snow or rain you can really tell the difference between Lockright and Auburn and none (ARB off).
 
An Auburn would be good in mud or sand or where you need tire speed to lock up the diff, not good for rocks. I run full case Detroits in my LC rears. You could run the lunchbox, or even cheaper, weld up the spider gears. I don't have any experience w/ the lunchbox or welded style on the noise aspect, but I never hear my Detroit on the trail. On the street, you'll probably hear it occasionally. A good place to check prices would be Ring & Pinion Gears | Axles Parts | Drivetrain Parts I've bought a few lockers there & they were the lowest.
 
I welded my gears. I have 35 mt/r's You don't hear the tires much when just doing normal driving, They get loud when you like in a store parking lot with nice pavement and doing tigth turns
 
I had an EZlocker in my 72 with a 2f and 5.29s running 34's and they still wore out in less than 2000 miles.(my nick name is Captian Slow so it wasn't worn out from hot rodding) Now I have a Detroit in because I have upgraded to a TBI 350 with a SM420 trans still running my 5.29 and moving up to 37 inch swampers. I wish I had saved the 250 bucks and bought the Detroit to begin with. EZ locker was a waste of my time and money... oh and what a pain in the ask to install. Shims and C clips BLOW! The shims had worn out to the point that they wouldn't hold the castles together and when I got it shimmed up right it the king pin wouldn't fit anymore!! I am sorry I ever messed with an EZ locker, pay the extra money and get a Detroit it is so much easier to install and it is rock solid.
 
I've been running a lock rite in the rear of my Land Cruiser for several years now. I've never really noticed any negative behaviour from the locker while I am driving on the street. Sure it clicks and if I romp on the gas the rig will tend to torque bias toward one side, but I don't regularly drive that way, so I don't notice the lock rite on the street.

I just setup 4.88's and an ARB for the FRONT of my truck, I am going to be reusing the lock-rite in the rear of my truck as the locker works great and I've never had any problem with it. I was considering doing a full carrier detroit locker, but it was a choice between the FC detroit and getting 30 spline longfields. I'd rather have the longfields.
 
Hi All:

I can't see anything wrong with installing a full Detroit Locker into your rig.

But . . . . . with a 2F and 4.11 gears a Lockrite/EZLocker/Aussie Locker should
be fine.

Regards,

Alan


I need help with what locker to install in the rear of my 76 fj40. I was thinking about a Detroit Locker. I think I want to stay away from a limited slip(LS). Any opinions on Auburn versus Detroit or Lockrite. I am confused on what to do. I know there will be a lot of opinions out there. I apologize for asking this question as it may have already been asked. I need any info that is out there. Where to buy, best price etc. Thanks in advance on any info. Please feel free to PM me.:banana:Alan
 
I ran a lockright for years in the rear. Did not have big tires though. Went to 37's and it finally went. Lockright was noisey when turning with out a load on it but it worked well. good luck
 
This is like asking "what is the best brand of ice cream?" There are lots of factors. What is your budget? What is your goal? Rock crawling? Occasional trail run? Dedicated trail rig or daily driver? What size tires? Dry, arrid environment or wet/snow driving?

I would say, first, figure out what type of terrain you plan on running your truck (dry vs. wet/snow), are you just running trails vs. rock crawling, and are the quirks of a autolocker worth dealing with vs. the extra cash of a selectable (ARB or similar)? That will help you decide between a relatively inexpensive lunchbox locker vs. a more pricey selectable.

For me, I just installed an Aussie in the rear of my '82. I drive it pretty conservative on the road, and know that it is there, so the occasional ratcheting and minor quirks in a tight spot like a parking lot doesn't bother me. But, that's me. Ask 4 different people, and you will get 5 different answers. Figure out what you are looking to accomplish, and make your call from there.

Good luck.
 
I am sorry I ever messed with an EZ locker, pay the extra money and get a Detroit it is so much easier to install and it is rock solid.

:lol: Easier to install? I've installed lunchboxes extremely quickly just taking off the rear cover and sliding the rear axles out a few inches, there's no more simple way to put a locker in than just replacing the spiders. A full case requires pulling the third, setting up the gears, etc etc which for the average home guy is beyond what they can or are willing to do. I'll say the lunchboxes are louder than the full cases I've been around.
 
:lol: Easier to install? I've installed lunchboxes extremely quickly just taking off the rear cover and sliding the rear axles out a few inches, there's no more simple way to put a locker in than just replacing the spiders. A full case requires pulling the third, setting up the gears, etc etc which for the average home guy is beyond what they can or are willing to do. I'll say the lunchboxes are louder than the full cases I've been around.

I just setup a set of 4.88's and though it was a crap-ton of work, it really was not that bad. I think that rebuilding a motor is more labor intensive. With access to the appropriate tools and a bit of researchstart here, a Diff setup can be done by most anybody mechanically inclined.
 
Lots of options and lots of opinions. That's what makes this fun.

My dad, a good friend, and myself all have welded rears and Aussie's up front. We've each used that setup with great success. And we all have different drivetrains & tire sizes.

My dad - '75 FJ40 with 2F, 4.10 R&P, 34" LTB's
My friend - Early 70's FJ40 with a 350, SM465, 35" Gateway Buckshots
My setup - '73 FJ40 with 2F (currently swapping in a 3FE+toybox), 4.88 R&P, 37" Gateway Buckshots

Most of the people I wheel with have welded spiders in the rear. It's cheap and works well for the wheeling we do. Same goes for the Aussie.
 
I just setup a set of 4.88's and though it was a ****-ton of work, it really was not that bad.
My main point was that apples to apples a lunchbox is far easier than a full carrier, neither are difficult to do if you take your time but a lunchbox requires basic hand tools to install and maybe an hour and a half to two hours to do. If you do a regear at the same time than they are the exact same amount of work since the carrier is coming out regardless.
 
My rear Lockrite held up to 33s fine but when I went to 36s it died. I replaced it with an ARB and had forgotten how much I like having an open rear diff on the road. If the front Lockrite goes I will replace it with ARB. If you can, drive a truck with a autolocker in the rear to decide if you can live with the on road "quirks" before you buy.
 

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