Adjustable Control Arms: Upper or Lower and Why?

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Well, I know for sure that your pinion angle is not close to matching your T-case angle which means a standard shaft will definitely not work unles you lower your pinion a good bit.
As for making your DC shaft vibe free, I'm not sure because, as stated before by someone else, and I agree, your pinion angle is so close to zero I'm not totally convinced that is your problem. That's why I suggested having the shaft balanced again by a reputable shop.
If you are comitted to buying adjustable uppers then set the pinion strait at the T-case for zero angle. You already have the DC shaft so there is no reason to go back to the OEM shaft now. Just don't rule out an issue with the integrity and balance of the DC shaft itself.
 
You need to bring your pinion up ever so slightly, from the photos you posted. Adjustable uppers are you best bet and they need to be longer but not that much. I have the MetalTech adjustable uppers and lowers. These are HD but I don't think you will like the price. Iirc the uppers were $300.

the price may seem high but when you consider the cost of new OEM toyota bushings, it really is not much more. Plus the MT uppers and lowers are bolt in and no work to do.
 
In my mind it just seemed like mechanical forces wouldn't allow the pinion to rotate down with lower links and it would be easier with upper links. With that said, I think the easiest/cheapest route for an adjustable link is the uppers. But if you don't need them adjustable, just sleeving the lower and making them whatever length you need would be even easier.
If you lengthen the lowers the pinion rotates down... Why wouldn't it?
 
the price may seem high but when you consider the cost of new OEM toyota bushings, it really is not much more. Plus the MT uppers and lowers are bolt in and no work to do.
I know, I run the MT's but the OP started this post by letting us know adjustable arms were not in his budget. I think he has since reconsidered the flexibility of his budget.
 
Well, I know for sure that your pinion angle is not close to matching your T-case angle which means a standard shaft will definitely not work unles you lower your pinion a good bit.
As for making your DC shaft vibe free, I'm not sure because, as stated before by someone else, and I agree, your pinion angle is so close to zero I'm not totally convinced that is your problem. That's why I suggested having the shaft balanced again by a reputable shop.
If you are comitted to buying adjustable uppers then set the pinion strait at the T-case for zero angle. You already have the DC shaft so there is no reason to go back to the OEM shaft now. Just don't rule out an issue with the integrity and balance of the DC shaft itself.
Good idea. After grabbing the angle, I'm going to pull it to isolate and run it down for a balance check.
 
I know, I run the MT's but the OP started this post by letting us know adjustable arms were not in his budget. I think he has since reconsidered the flexibility of his budget.
I spoke with the bank...and now there is a budget. I'm more flexible but still reluctant but slowly giving into acceptance of my fate and the path I set forth. ;)
 
I just installed OEM bushings in both upper and lower last week, that's where my budget went. :(
 
If you can figure out how long you need them I wouldn't think it'd be hard to find a member here who can help you chop and sleeve your links, in Phoenix. There's plenty of off road fab shops around Phoenix too who can sell you some DOM, and that doesn't cost that much.
 
I spoke with the bank...and now there is a budget. I'm more flexible but still reluctant but slowly giving into acceptance of my fate and the path I set forth. ;)
Ahh yes acceptance is the key to contentmant. Be aware that the MetalTech adjustable control arms must be completely disconnected from the chassis at one end in order to be adjusted. Slee weld in adjusters do not require disconnection but, in my opinion, would not be as strong. Also, the ABS harness is bracketed to the stock arms. I removed those small brackets and tack welded them to my MT uppers for a factory like install. This is the optimal way to secure the ABS harness. I'm not sure how well a zip tie job would fair in the long run but might work temporarily.
 
That's a bummer. Must take awhile to get them dialed in.
 
Personally I wouldn't use adjustable lowers because the adjustment nuts etc would just be something to snag on rocks etc. I'd rather keep the lowers straight tube to slide over stuff and handle the adjustment with the upper arms that are protected.
 
I spoke with the bank...and now there is a budget. I'm more flexible but still reluctant but slowly giving into acceptance of my fate and the path I set forth. ;)


So is your new budget going to allow for adjustable panhard a on both ends? If so, you will want new OEM bushings for them.
 
So is your new budget going to allow for adjustable panhard a on both ends? If so, you will want new OEM bushings for them.
Not really. I literally just replaced every bushing in the truck with my trusty HF 20-ton two weeks ago. Had I not been a total noob about the pinion, I would've done many things differently. I'm frankly exhausted at this point and I'd like to set the truck on fire rather than redo all the arms again but that's not an option unfortunately.

Can I have the bars welded on without burning up the new OEM bushings I pressed in everywhere?
 
Just buy the slee.

By the time you source a welding guy, remove, cut and weld., measure and curse because the vibe is still there and you have no adjustment, you will be beyond the price of the slee arms.

I went through the same BS with my four inch lift Ironman and feel your frustration. These arms will make your life better.
 
Do the Slee come with OEM bushings or just poly?
 
Don't remember - think they are urethane not rubber
 
I may swing by Super Duty Headquarters here in town, they build a lot of Trophy/pre-runner trucks based on Ford Raptors and they have lots of Heim/Tommy Joints and tubes in their shop. I should be able to put together something for far less than Slee's $375.
 
I agree with the idea of buying new adjustable arms instead of any welding/home fab BS. You will spend less money in the long run. I learned this with DOM tie rods.
In my opinion, the MT arms are the best bang for your buck. They are very strong and priced competitively at Extremelandcruiser.com. He is a small business, very friendly and shipped quickly when I ordered last year.
I don't know how you intend to use your 80 but I run very rocky trails here in Rubicon country and my MT LCA's have taken a pounding with no damage or deformation.
Someone said that lower adjustment nuts will get caught on rocks. I call BS on that. My nuts have come in contact with rocks and yes one did become loose one time. These nuts are huge and can be torqued very tight. For that matter, once the pinion is dialed in you could tack weld the jam nut in place.
 
I'm leaning towards the MT upper arms to begin with, they will get me that little bit of adjustment I need to stay with the DC shaft. I daily drive this truck and avoided poly bushings on purpose. In the long run I'd rather have OEM rubber bushings on DOM sleeved rods that are the correct length. Unfortunately, I can't weld on the rods I have without removing new bushings taht I don't want to re-install. I don't have a set to play with and I'm not sure I want to have a DC shaft in the long run, I've read up some local posts that they are long term headache's and everyone has been able to use the stock driveline without issue with the proper adjustment of the pinon.

I've considered buying Landtank's HD rods, extended for 4" lift with an OEM driveshaft and then sell the DC shaft and adjustable MT upper rod but I have a severe time crunch and don't think I can do that in the time I have.
 

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