Adding lights to a cargo rack - wire management/routing? (1 Viewer)

[HMP]

So as I get this thing back on track/road, one thing is Im putting the cargo rack back on the roof.
Say I wanted to add some spots to the front and rear of said rack - how are yall routing the wiring for it?
Surely people arent drilling holes in their roof, are they?
What's the common/standard method for doing this?

Apologies for what is, likely, such a silly question, this is nothing Ive ever considered before and not around many that do offroad kinds of vehicles

 

[yotadude520]

Just run it through the nearest rust hole in the roof and call it a day!

 

[1989FJ]

When I had lights on the front of my rack, the shop that “professionally” installed them ran the wires behind the fabric on the drivers side A pillar and through the roof. I eventually took them off because the glare off the hood made them unpleasant to use. If you really want lights on the roof, I’d recommend making sure the light shoots past your hood and doesn’t reflect.

 

[duncanrm]

Horizon Early Landcruiser (Home - Horizon Early Landcruisers - https://helc.com.au/) here in Australia posted these two photos a while back.. unsure where he got this rubber duct from, but from a distance it blends into the window rubber nicely.. I've asked him what the product is, I'll report back.

 

[CruiserTrash]

I ran a wire for a GMRS antenna to my roof. Fished it under the door sills, into the rear cargo area behind the panels, up the D-pillar, and then put it into one of the rubber passages for the wiring that goes to the back hatch. About midway through that rubber piece I cut a hole and fished the wire out so it could come through the panel gap between the upper hatch and roof. Doing it this way means it isn't running through a door weatherstrip anywhere so water can't get it. I don't like that it's such a long cable run, but it works.

 

[nakman]

I've done that side of the window thing using cord cover, from like Home Depot

Legrand Wiremold CordMate Cord Cover 5 ft. Channel, Cord Hider for Home or Office, Holds 1 Cable, White C10 - The Home Depot

Wiremold CordMate Cord Cover system is the quick, easy way to conceal a single cord or cable. Perfect for family rooms, bedrooms and offices, its stylish design complements most interior decors and is

www.homedepot.com

it's quick and dirty, but painted black first it looks ok- just peel and stick it to the side of the windshield. It lasts about a year... directly proportional to how much ice you get and how often you scrape your windshield in the winter, etc. I have also run wires out the rear hatch and just not worried about water, and that has lasted years without issue but it doesn't rain inside the garage much.

Not sure I could drill a hole through a good 60 body for wires... but if I did I'd use one of these kind of grommets

https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Weatherproof-Grommets-Bundle-Diameter/dp/B083S14V86?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A2GNZBM8JSG24J&th=1

 

[CruiserTrash]

In addition to the grommet @nakman suggested, I'll also offer up bulkhead connectors. It's a solid piece of metal that penetrates the roof, with rubber washers to seal water out. You attach one wire inside and one wire outside with ring terminals (some have fancy connections). No wire is being passed through, the bulkhead connector does that itself and just provides an attachment point on the inside & outside.

Summit Racing SUM-G1431 Summit Racing™ Bulkhead Cable Connectors | Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1431?srsltid=AfmBOoqGiKfwMXjazs1-goPHzqqBuFLtQRd06jx2N0pgHg4MsuTJzsC39Bw

 

[DrRock]

To riff on what CruiserTrash said, other options exist from Amphenol:

https://www.connecticc.com/cms/manufacturers/amphenol-industrial/pt-series-26482-connectors/

These are top of the line and have a myriad of configurations. I've been slowly converting my trailer connections to these as the industry standard trailer connectors are rubbish. Personally I like the connectors which include solder cups which makes for a very robust connection.

 

[CruiserTrash]

To riff on what CruiserTrash said, other options exist from Amphenol:

https://www.connecticc.com/cms/manufacturers/amphenol-industrial/pt-series-26482-connectors/

These are top of the line and have a myriad of configurations. I've been slowly converting my trailer connections to these as the industry standard trailer connectors are rubbish. Personally I like the connectors which include solder cups which makes for a very robust connection.

Solder cups = pro level sh*t

 

[BurntToast]

Solder cups = pro level sh*t

Series one mil connectors are old and not scoop proof. Modern series 3 with crimp contacts are the standard in mil and aero applications for a reason. Solder is fine but prone to traditional solder issues (cracking, cold joints, tin whiskers, etc)

 

[BurntToast]

Duplicate

 

[CruiserTrash]

Series one mil connectors are old and not scoop proof. Modern series 3 with crimp contacts are the standard in mil and aero applications for a reason. Solder is fine but prone to traditional solder issues (cracking, cold joints, tin whiskers, etc)

I like solder cups from my days in recording studios. All the nicest gear and components had them and it made soldering work so much easier. On a vehicle I’m on the fence due to vibrations. With a bulkhead fitting that has rubber waterproofing seals, there might be some vibration dampening - enough to make me comfortable. I’d probably still crimp though.

 

[HMP]

Thanks yall for the ideas
Seems like going through the rear hatch will be best option SHOULD I choose to add lights.

This place is rad, appreciate yall

 

[cruiserpilot]

When you lift your rear hatch, there is a wiring grommet in the top left corner ( looking forward )
This is the wiring for the rear defrost and wiper. It's a perfect place to add a nice piece of doubled insulated wire. You
can access this from the inside rear pillar and just route the wire back to follow the wiring harness for the whole rear of the
truck from there. I removed my washer plastic line. It also has a rubber grommet in the upper hatch leading back to
the same place as main wiring harness. This way you don't drill holes. The rear corner of the truck stays almost
dry even in heavy rain when travelling but it's never leaked before so no reason to now

 

[DrRock]

Series one mil connectors are old and not scoop proof. Modern series 3 with crimp contacts are the standard in mil and aero applications for a reason. Solder is fine but prone to traditional solder issues (cracking, cold joints, tin whiskers, etc)

The caveat here is one has the proper crimping tool. 200-300$ for good crimp tools are a bit out of reach for home mechanics. Agree that crimping is now a better option for harsh environments as long as the crimp is well formed.

 

[zeeklafreek]

What if you did away with the need for wires and slapped one of these on it?

https://tinyurl.com/56y858ap

 

[cruiserpilot]

What if you did away with the need for wires and slapped one of these on it?

https://tinyurl.com/56y858ap

Because when you drive away and forget it, you don't have it anymore?

 

[zeeklafreek]

Because when you drive away and forget it, you don't have it anymore?

From what I've read about the strength of the magnet on those, I'm pretty sure the top windspeed of an FJ, flat out, wouldn't budge it. lol

 

[duncanrm]

Product I mentioned above:

Roof Light Wiring Concealer

The STEDI™ Wire Concealer to suit a windshield cable channel, was designed to hide wiring for 4X4 LED lights, that are installed on roof racks. Shop online now.

www.stedi.com.au

 

[HMP]

Product I mentioned above:

Roof Light Wiring Concealer

The STEDI™ Wire Concealer to suit a windshield cable channel, was designed to hide wiring for 4X4 LED lights, that are installed on roof racks. Shop online now.

www.stedi.com.au

Pretty slick idea, thanks