Accessory Fuse Block (1 Viewer)

[Steve Haleyeah]

Currently looking to fix up the rats nest the PO did on the wiring to the 97 I purchased. What has everyone used for the fuse blocks? I am currently looking at the Blue Sea Systems, but also saw a fabricated panel from Overlander yet it doesn't appear they have a specific one for 80's. Any recommendations along with pics of mounting locations would be great.

Thanks

 

[ERG80]

here’s a 80 specific option available for preorder.

1994-1997 Land Cruiser Add-a-Fuse Block Kit - with options

huddexpo.com

HuddExpo Add a fuse block kit for 80 series

This works for 93-97 80 Series. Final tweaks and changes made. I moved to 1/4" thick ABS for the mounting plate and have decided to allow each person to order as little or as much from the kit as they like, essentially once you pick the mounting plate, you can just add from there. Options will...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[REKCUT]

Blue sea block mounted to pass seat bracket. Will try and find pic.

 

[REKCUT]

Carpet is outcurrently but it covers all wires.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

blue sea on the fire-wall.

 

[NLXTACY]

Skip all that and go SwitchPro

 

[cc93cruiser]

Blue Sea Aux Block for the win! Mount. Mount anywhere under hood with a fuse close to the battery..

 

[REKCUT]

Skip all that and go SwitchPro

Jumping from a $30 option to a $600 option.

 

[NCFJ]

I use Bussman fuse/relay boxes. 5 relays, 10 fuses. Mini fuses and relays.

Here is a great thread on how to build one out and all the part numbers you can want along with sources

DIY - Build and install a Bussmann RTMR Fuse/Relay Block

Part 1 - Introduction [IMG] This is Part 1 in a series of tutorials that will show you how to build a Bussmann RTMR fuse/relay block. If you’re not...

www.tacomaworld.com

 

[NLXTACY]

Jumping from a $30 option to a $600 option.

Yup. But crazy amount less of wire time and nothing to worry about switches, or fuses, or relays.

I’ve done PLENTY of fuse blocks in my tribe and those hours are better spent elsewhere.

 

[SmokingRocks]

switch pro ftw

or you can be a baller and get a factory fuse block. With it, you can salvage the pins from it and pin more fuses into the OEM block OR just repin the entire spare block to be used as your auxiliary fuse block which is what I did.

Added benefits are first off all of my auxiliary aftermarket goodies are isolated in their own fuse panel, so I'm not ****ing with the meat and potatoes of what makes the cruiser reliable, secondly, if I need spare relays or fuses I can take them from the Aux block and get myself home.

If you go this route you need to plan it out very methodically, size your wires, fuses, fusible link (or breaker) correctly, I'd highly suggest using deutsch connectors and color-coded wires so you can make your own auxiliary EWD.

Click here to navigate to my build where I detail this

 

[High Lander]

I am looking for a solution to hard wire a bunch of low draw cockpit electronics so watching this thread, was just going to jump the accessory fuse box off one of the spare ACC fuses on the main panel. I have an old parking assist system attached over the ABS unit so will put the new fuse box in its place

 

[jht3]

Yup. But crazy amount less of wire time and nothing to worry about switches, or fuses, or relays.

I’ve done PLENTY of fuse blocks in my tribe and those hours are better spent elsewhere.

are you saying that in your experience you'd go with a Switch Pros every time over a fuse panel like a Blue Sea 5032? i see the advantages of a SP for when switching of the loads is actually required. but not all loads need to be switchable or run through their own relay; 12v/USB accessory outlets or mobile radios come to mind. i see in the documentation that each load has a memory setting, so the default off condition can instead be set to on with ign/acc on so that helps overcome manually turning on plugs scattered throughout the cabin.

i too am planning out an accessory setup and am on the fence about a "traditional" 12 fuse panel or a SP. i've been leaning towards a 12 fuse panel w/ 2 banks like the Blue Sea 5032, with 6 fuses hot at all times and 6 acc switched through a large 125A relay; to be installed in my center console. i haven't tallied up the costs, but by the time i buy all the wire, terminals, deutsch/weatherpack connectors, fuses, etc i'll probably be near the cost of a SP...that s*** nickels and dimes you to death! i actually don't have any lights to switch but if i get to it, a pair of driving lights or light bar and a pair of rear lights is as much as i need for what i do, and i planned to use the OE blanks to locate those switches.

 

[REKCUT]

I used the blue sea block on the pass seat exactly for the reasons mentioned above. I ran one large guage wire through the firewall to the fuse block and then from there i ran multiple wires to usb ports, ham radio, arb fridge plug. I don't need a switch to run those and you would still have to wire each one of those to the switch pro so its not an advantage. I might feel different if I was wiring items in front of the fire wall and wanted to run them from the cab like lights.

 

[zapatius]

I put a Blue Sea under the shifter console. I put two Blue Sea USB chargers above the rear vent in the center console. It also powers a small amp in the rear and a few other things.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Added benefits are first off all of my auxiliary aftermarket goodies are isolated in their own fuse panel, so I'm not f***ing with the meat and potatoes of what makes the cruiser reliable, secondly, if I need spare relays or fuses I can take them from the Aux block and get myself home.

This is should be the basis for all electrical mods...don't muck about with the factory wiring.
I know its how I operate. Just safer that way.