AC rebuild kits (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Yeah, I am wondering about that too. I also shot a can of Red Devil into it which claims to be OK for the vacuum machine, but I would rather flush the whole system out before I toss in several hundred dollars worth of parts, only to have them fail shortly thereafter. Can a person also flush their system without taking it to a shop?

So the full story is that when I bought the truck the compressor was squealing pretty bad and I could see that the belt was having trouble moving the pulley on it. The truck had sat for long periods of time over the course of the previous 14 years so I wasn't really surprised. I tried using a can of the refrigerant Zack posted and then it started moving much more freely and it ran ice cold for a day, but the refrigerant leaked out. I tried again with the Red Devil and it did seem to move much more freely and the squealing stopped, but it still ran out after sitting overnight. At that point I just removed the belt and moved onto more pressing needs.

I typically like to research and collect parts and get a plan together when I go to replace stuff, which is what I am doing now. I read somewhere on some old threads that you could get new innards for the compressors and rebuild them, they sounds cheap, like $25 cheap, so I figured it might be worth a shot to rebuild the original unit and save the $200 on that part, but still replace other parts as needed. I will admit that my only experience thus far with AC systems is adding more refrigerant, so I am a rookie. I am not even sure I fully understand how the systems work, at least not yet.

I talked to Rex (@1972FJ55) the other day about rebuilding a compressor. If it is simple seals it might be worth it. If there was an internal failure it is not. I'm waiting on a compressor to button everything up.

I highly recommend talking to 1972FJ55 about AC. I'm lucky as he is local and I can do it in person.
 
Thanks for the clarification. I was planning on a new drier and expansion valve for sure and new o-rings. I will have to use my best judgement on the condenser and compressor, but I am leaning towards a new compressor for sure and if I see any debris, I will just do the condenser too.

Do NOT attempt to 'rebuild' an old A/C compressor. As soon as you pull it apart you will see why. Just purchase a new or re-manufactured unit.

Do NOT 'flush' either a Condenser or Evaporator IF you suspect any metal has been circulated through the system, just replace them, they are not very expensive.

You CAN (and should) flush all the lines with an approved flushing agent, then blow clean/dry with compressed air.

If I were in your place, I'd replace the Compressor, Condenser, Evaporator, drier and TXV. Flush the lines (after carefully inspecting each for damage). Install new parts, Install all new O-rings (in every line connection). Get a bottle of 'Nylog' and use it on every connection as you put them together.

Just trust me on this: IF you take 'short cuts' on an old A/C system (the condition of which you are uncertain, except it has a leak). Chances are excellent...you will be going back into it. If you need to collect the parts over time, do that. Same thing for the necessary tools (unless you can rent/borrow them).

Parts: New/reman Compressor, Condenser, Evaporator, TXV, O-ring kit, New Shrader valves, PAG oil, Refrigerant, Nylog, Flushing agent, Vacuum pump oil.

Tools: Hand tools required to remove and install components, Flushing canister, Air compressor, Rubber tipped blow gun, Vacuum pump, Manifold Gauge set (including lines and connectors).
 
Do NOT attempt to 'rebuild' an old A/C compressor. As soon as you pull it apart you will see why. Just purchase a new or re-manufactured unit.

Do NOT 'flush' either a Condenser or Evaporator IF you suspect any metal has been circulated through the system, just replace them, they are not very expensive.

You CAN (and should) flush all the lines with an approved flushing agent, then blow clean/dry with compressed air.

If I were in your place, I'd replace the Compressor, Condenser, Evaporator, drier and TXV. Flush the lines (after carefully inspecting each for damage). Install new parts, Install all new O-rings (in every line connection). Get a bottle of 'Nylog' and use it on every connection as you put them together.

Just trust me on this: IF you take 'short cuts' on an old A/C system (the condition of which you are uncertain, except it has a leak). Chances are excellent...you will be going back into it. If you need to collect the parts over time, do that. Same thing for the necessary tools (unless you can rent/borrow them).

Parts: New/reman Compressor, Condenser, Evaporator, TXV, O-ring kit, New Shrader valves, PAG oil, Refrigerant, Nylog, Flushing agent, Vacuum pump oil.

Tools: Hand tools required to remove and install components, Flushing canister, Air compressor, Rubber tipped blow gun, Vacuum pump, Manifold Gauge set (including lines and connectors).


Good advice. I will scrap the rebuilding idea and look into collecting these parts as money allows. I should still be able to get it done this summer after I install the new gas tank skid plate and filler neck I just picked up, assuming I don't end up deciding to get a new tank and fuel pump assembly too.
 
Good advice. I will scrap the rebuilding idea and look into collecting these parts as money allows. I should still be able to get it done this summer after I install the new gas tank skid plate and filler neck I just picked up, assuming I don't end up deciding to get a new tank and fuel pump assembly too.

A new Condenser can be had for $80.00-$110.00, same thing for the Evaporator. Since your Compressor was making a squealing noise and felt slightly 'seized' chances are....its not a good candidate for a rebuild.
 
A few questions...

I'd like to revitalize the AC on my vehicle.
  1. How do I properly capture and dispose of R134? Is there a DIY way to go about it?
  2. Does the AC shop use the high and low valves to remove R134?
  3. Are the o-rings sold individually or in a kit? Is there a part number for the kit?
  4. How many o-rings are needed to replace in just the lines?
  5. What mechanism is used to flush out the lines? Are they flushed in place or removed then flushed?
Other than maybe the R134 removal, I plan to do this myself.

Thanks,

Ron
 
Take to ac shop, have them recover r134a, they can re use this. No not legally.

Yes

I bought a kit. The oem o rings were a bit thinner but I have no leaks. Theyre cheap and include a ton. Idk how many you need.

Lines are easy, unbolt, take your flush gun/can whatever, flush, and then blow out with high pressure, high flow shop air and lots of it. Catch all the crap coming out with plenty of rags. Theyre really easy to flush, in place even. The condensor and evap take a ton of air and time to get all the flush out. Like a lot...
 
A few questions...

I'd like to revitalize the AC on my vehicle.
  1. How do I properly capture and dispose of R134? Is there a DIY way to go about it?
  2. Does the AC shop use the high and low valves to remove R134?
  3. Are the o-rings sold individually or in a kit? Is there a part number for the kit?
  4. How many o-rings are needed to replace in just the lines?
  5. What mechanism is used to flush out the lines? Are they flushed in place or removed then flushed?
Other than maybe the R134 removal, I plan to do this myself.

Thanks,

Ron


1. An AC shop can capture the R134A.
2. Yes
3. Kit
4. Not sure on actual number (I would have to go and count) but the kit will have enough
5. Refer to @maxamillion2345's post

In addition I highly recommend a new expansion valve and cleaning of the evaporator and blower fan. I found a ton of crap in mine that accumulated over the years.
 
I'll see if I can answer your questions.
1) No easy way for the DIY person to do it-easiest to have a shop recover it.
2) Reputable shops have a recovery machine that stores the recovered refrigerant, through both sides.
3) Just buy a kit, you'll end up with some extras but much easier than buying individuals. Denso parts usually come with O-rings. Santech #MT2580.
4) Each line/hose has an o-ring on each end and the liquid line has one in the middle also, so you'll need 9 of various sizes.
5) A flush gun like MT4054 Santech

flush gun.png
 
I'll see if I can answer your questions.
1) No easy way for the DIY person to do it-easiest to have a shop recover it.
2) Reputable shops have a recovery machine that stores the recovered refrigerant, through both sides.
3) Just buy a kit, you'll end up with some extras but much easier than buying individuals. Denso parts usually come with O-rings. Santech #MT2580.
4) Each line/hose has an o-ring on each end and the liquid line has one in the middle also, so you'll need 9 of various sizes.
5) A flush gun like MT4054 Santech

View attachment 1496569

Many thanks to all that replied.
  1. Are there tougher o-rings to access than others?
  2. Are all the o-rings all relaively simple to get to? If not, any tricks to ease accessibility?
Thanks....
 
I didnt pull the lines apart, just the lines from the condensor, drier, evap, txv, and compressor
 
I'll see if I can answer your questions.

5) A flush gun like MT4054 Santech

View attachment 1496569

That is the same flushing agent canister/gun I use. Be aware that it is for introducing flush agent ONLY. The flushing agent MUST be COMPLETELY removed from the lines/system, so a lot of compressed air is needed afterward.

Hint: Just blowing compressed air through the lines will NOT remove most agents. You will need to block one end of the hoses/component and let pressure build up, then remove your thumb/finger and a strong stream of air and agent will be expelled. Do this repeatedly...until the part is thoroughly clean. A rubber tipped air nozzle is required.

 
Many thanks to all that replied.
  1. Are there tougher o-rings to access than others?
  2. Are all the o-rings all relaively simple to get to? If not, any tricks to ease accessibility?
Thanks....

I had mine under pressure with dye for a week, then replaced only the O rings that were leaking or that were on a new part I installed. They weren't that difficult to get to/replace.
 
Where
That is the same flushing agent canister/gun I use. Be aware that it is for introducing flush agent ONLY. The flushing agent MUST be COMPLETELY removed from the lines/system, so a lot of compressed air is needed afterward.

Hint: Just blowing compressed air through the lines will NOT remove most agents. You will need to block one end of the hoses/component and let pressure build up, then remove your thumb/finger and a strong stream of air and agent will be expelled. Do this repeatedly...until the part is thoroughly clean. A rubber tipped air nozzle is required.
  1. Where is the attachment point?
  2. Where does the flushing agent exit from?
Thanks...
 
I am finally getting into luxury upgrades for the 80. This project got shelved as I tackled other pressing needs. I ordered all of this stuff and a gallon of the cleaner. Anything else I should get? I am still not sure if I should hassle with the evaporator, but I could order one if need be. I have new bracket for the drier coming from Mr. T. Is there anything else I should snag before I get into this?

This is going to be a big tear down. The top end of the motor has already been done. I am going to pull the driver's side fender and inner fender and replace them with the awesome set @slow95z sent me and get the new gears in the passenger side headlight that @Tedward was kind enough to share(I still feel bad that you gave me those. There has to be some small token that would make you feel good that I could do for you. Movie passes, music, a beer, or just regular old cash), fix the leak on the power steering system with a new cooler(I need to research that and get the right hoses and cooler, any advice there would be super. The paperclip is gone. I don't have it routed for cooling at the moment), new front crank seal, new oil pump seal, etc. This will probably be the best chance to do any other "while I am in there" stuff on any of the systems that will be easy to access when I pull this all apart. Anything I should gather beyond the manifold gauges and vacuum pump?


DENSO 4711166 (471-1166) A/C Compressor $ 184.79
DENSO 4770554 (477-0554) A/C Condenser $ 73.79
DENSO 4752005 (475-2005) A/C Expansion Valve $ 16.18
DENSO 4780503 (478-0503) A/C Receiver Drier / Accumulator $ 11.26
DENSO 9990101 (999-0101) A/C Refrigerant Oil $ 14.60
FOUR SEASONS 26749 A/C System O-Rings, Seals, & Gasket Kits $ 9.10
FOUR SEASONS 26783 A/C System Valve Core and Cap Kit $ 8.12
 
Last edited:
I am finally getting into luxury upgrades for the 80. This project got shelved as I tackled other pressing needs. I ordered all of this stuff and a gallon of the cleaner. Anything else I should get? I am still not sure if I should hassle with the evaporator, but I could order one if need be. I have new bracket for the drier coming from Mr. T. Is there anything else I should snag before I get into this?

This is going to be a big tear down. The top end of the motor has already been done. I am going to pull the driver's side fender and inner fender and replace them with the awesome set @slow95z sent me and get the new gears in the passenger side headlight, fix the leak on the power steering system with a new cooler(I need to research that and get the right hoses and cooler, any advice there would be super. The paperclip is gone. I don't have it routed for cooling at the moment), new front crank seal, new oil pump seal, etc. This will probably be the best chance to do any other "while I am in there" stuff on any of the systems that will be easy to access when I pull this all apart. Anything I should gather beyond the manifold gauges and vacuum pump?


DENSO 4711166 (471-1166) A/C Compressor $ 184.79
DENSO 4770554 (477-0554) A/C Condenser $ 73.79
DENSO 4752005 (475-2005) A/C Expansion Valve $ 16.18
DENSO 4780503 (478-0503) A/C Receiver Drier / Accumulator $ 11.26
DENSO 9990101 (999-0101) A/C Refrigerant Oil $ 14.60
FOUR SEASONS 26749 A/C System O-Rings, Seals, & Gasket Kits $ 9.10
FOUR SEASONS 26783 A/C System Valve Core and Cap Kit $ 8.12
PAG46 oil. On the PS cooler; I installed a 17” double pass Derale heat sink style cooler. My PS fluid temps are usually in the range of 30-40 degrees cooler than with the paper clip. When overhauled my R12 system and converted to 134a, I also replaced the evaporator. Why not? You’re already there.
 
PAG46 oil. On the PS cooler; I installed a 17” double pass Derale heat sink style cooler. My PS fluid temps are usually in the range of 30-40 degrees cooler than with the paper clip. When overhauled my R12 system and converted to 134a, I also replaced the evaporator. Why not? You’re already there.
I have the oil on order. Is that the right stuff? There was talk of different weights for some of the other choices on RockAuto and I bought the Denso stuff. No dye that I am aware of, but I have a bunch of dye that I will take a pic of to see if any of it will be helpful. Gotta clean the bottles up and look at them closer before I do that(I got a couple of full tool sets for free for working for my exes parents and there is a bunch of dye in those)

I will do the evaporator. How bad is pulling the dash out on the '94?

Got a link to the PS cooler you used and advice as how to rig the hoses? That is new territory for me, but I usually figure it out. Any advice on that would be welcome.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom