AC Leak? (2 Viewers)

[FxFormat]

Hope this fixes your AC problem brother, it's getting cold where i live so i wont have to worry about AC until next May.

 

[bucfl]

Thanks guys!

Here is where I’m at and I think it’s a stopping point as I don’t have parts yet.

I used a dart tip to pop the plastic off. Highly specialized tool of the trade.

I covered the lines with tape to minimize contamination. Don’t know if that’s okay?

Does the Exp valve come with the rubber? Can’t remove it without destroying it. Do the parts come with O rings? Should I buy PAG oil? Do I need to add oil to system and how/where?

Lots of questions but I really dont know what I’m doing here. Appreciate the help!!

 

[Ohiolc100]

Buy the oring kit, it's like 5 bucks, parts may come with some but probably not all and you want to replace any oring you touch. No need to add pag oil. This is technically the cheap and dirty way to do this, to do it right you need to flush the system, replace all orings, etc, but what your are doing is what I did and I get reasonably cold air out of mine that has the original compressor with 350k miles on it.

 

[Ohiolc100]

Btw I plan on doing it "the right way" when/if I have to replace the compressor because you are basically doing all the labor of replacement when you do a full restore, I didn't want to spend that money or go through that hassle unless absolutely necessary and I'm assuming you don't want to either.

 

[flintknapper]

I used a dart tip to pop the plastic off. Highly specialized tool of the trade.

Improvise, Adapt and Overcome. Good job.

I covered the lines with tape to minimize contamination. Don’t know if that’s okay?

Yes, perfect. We don't want anything foreign in the system.

Does the Exp valve come with the rubber? Can’t remove it without destroying it.

Not likely. But you can buy Butyl Rubber tape at most home centers. You will need to seal that area back up so that rainwater/moisture/dust doesn't enter from the engine bay.

Do the parts come with O rings?

Probably not.

Should I buy PAG oil?

Yes, PAG-46

Do I need to add oil to system and how/where?

Add about 2 ounces to the new evaporator. You probably lost some oil from the leakage.

Lots of questions but I really dont know what I’m doing here.

You're doing fine. You have chosen to tackle the problem yourself and are resolved to learn along the way. You have to admire that, or at least I do.

^^^^^^ Expand for replies

 

[flintknapper]

it's getting cold where i live so i wont have to worry about AC until next May.

Depending upon where you live (relative humidity in wintertime)...you might be right. But I advise folks to always maintain a 'serviceable' A/C system for a couple of reasons.

1. Even during winter weather when you are running your heater...the A/C system will remove moisture from the cabin air and this is helpful when defrosting windows (keeps the windows from fogging up).

2. Occasional use of the A/C keeps the lubricating oil and additives (seal condtioners) circulated throughout the system.

 

[bucfl]

Supposed to be picking up the parts today.

Evap, recvr/dryer, exp vavle.

Ill be getting vacuum pump, ac manifold gauges, another can of 134a, can of pag 46, o ring pack.

How much refrigerant do add? Ambient temp is between 85-92.

Im following this video for reference. Anything else i need or go over?

 

[Ohiolc100]

It should say how much to add on one of the sickens in front of the radiator IIRC. Not going to matter a hold lot to you other than reference because you don't have pro equipment to measure out and weigh precise amounts of refrigerant. My rear ac is cut out so I ignored the numbers completely and added until I got about 30-40lbs on the low side, 220-250 on the high side.

 

[bucfl]

Good to hear. Those were the numbers i was shooting for. I just got everything from Auto Zone except for the Butyl Tape which ill have to find tomorrow.

 

[flintknapper]

Im following this video for reference. Anything else i need or go over?

The video is basically sound information. I prefer to charge the first can into vacuum as a liquid through the high side (engine off), then finish charging as a vapor into the low side suction, but if you aren't familiar with that procedure you are probably better off just following the video.

In the video...the tech never once checked his gauge pressures or vent temps. Pretty much what you would get if you took it to a shop (the quickest possible refrigerant charge that results in cooler air than when you brought it in).

As the owner of the vehicle you will want to take the time to 'optimize' the charge. By watching both the manifold gauges and a thermometer at the center vent...you can play with the refrigerant charge to get the best vent temps. Often times the ideal charge is an ounce or so under or over recommended weigh in charge.

By making certain the gauge pressures (high and low side) remain within an accepted 'window' and comparing it to the vent temp. You will soon find an amount that results in diminishing returns (no further gains in vent temps but rising pressure). Tweaking the charge is something a shop just isn't going to do. It takes all of another 20-30 minutes...but might be worth as much as 5 degrees lower vent temps.

Other than that...if you follow the video you won't blow yourself up or damage anything.

 

[bucfl]

I can’t find Butyl tape anywhere. Anything else I can use? Homedepot appears to have 1/4” and heading there now. But not sure they have it.

 

[Ohiolc100]

I didn't use it seemed to me the rubber gasket would seal it good enough bit if you're worried you can use a latex based sealant, it will peel off easy enough if necessary. That's what the guy before me did apparently.

 

[bucfl]

Is this a success? I vacuumed for 30 minutes, turned off pump, closed valves at gauge. Then waited an hour. No movement. Was getting late so had to stop.

I’ll go thru the process again tomorrow.

 

[Ohiolc100]

Hell yeah, looking good.

 

[Ohiolc100]

I'd pull that vaccum for an hour, hour and a half though, then let it sit for an hour to make sure everything is totally sealed, possibly overkill but piece of mind imo and won't hurt.

 

[bucfl]

Will do. I didn’t want to pull for extended period Incase there was a obvious leak and not waste time. But I think this is a good sign.

I’ll pull for 1.5 hrs and let sit an 1hr. Then proceed to add refrigerant and button it all up. I can’t thank you enough!! If this works you’ve saved me a lot of money!

 

[bucfl]

Well here’s the final result. It took 2.5 - 2.75 cans. More than anticipated. But these are the readings I have and look good. I added 2oz of oil and a cap of green dye for future reference.

Took it for a spin and it’s back to normal. It doesn’t seem to blow any colder than before but it’s the same and that’s fine with me.

The numbers are 35 and 225 respectively.

 

[Ohiolc100]

You may try like flint said and get a temp gauge and add a little or take a little out to fine tune it to get the coldest air. Glad it worked out.

 

[bucfl]

Thank you both for all the help. I have a bunch of O rings left with vac and pag oil that you guys can have. PM if you want it.

Thanks again for all the help!!!

 

[fooldall1]

Thanks for the info point, Bucfl!

I will be at the Citrus tract this weekend. Would love to meet you if you're heading over there on Sunday.