A tale of two trucks ;) (1 Viewer)

[wngrog]

Love it

 

[daniel.watters]

Well, I continue to struggle as this is the most complex automotive endeavor that I’ve taken on.
My 12 year old helped me tonight. We bled the clutch master. And then I tried brakes. I half ass cut the 9mm brake nut off. Slid on a 10mm. Bought and used a STANDARD Harbor Freight flaring kit. The end was barely flared. It was bent, warped, etc. But I slammed that 10mm into to brake mc and boom! I haven’t even looked at the drums or wheel cylinders. To say that I was shocked is an understatement. I’m fairly confident that this is the first time this truck has moved and stopped under its own power since 1988. The top of the stacked years on the California plate.

 

[daniel.watters]

1988.

 

[daniel.watters]

I’m certain I have a massive vacuum leak. I terminated the lines that run the vacuum t case. And the line running to the oil fill tube. Any other thoughts/suggestions?

 

[whitey45]

It wouldn’t idle that good with a big vacuum leak!

 

[daniel.watters]

It wouldn’t idle that good with a big vacuum leak!

Hmmm. Maybe timing or carb adjustments?

 

[whitey45]

If your talking about the hesitation in the video, can be timing, but sounds like carb issues. These engines are also a bit cold blooded and need a bit of warm up to be happy!

 

[wngrog]

If you want to drive over here in your ….. Jeep……I have a couple of period correct axles that have good brakes in them you can have for some beer and bourbon. Save yourself the brain stabbing hassle of rebuilding those god forsaken things

 

[Michael B]

Congratulations Daniel! If you need 9mm brake lines for the rear axle, I have a set.

 

[middlecalf]

I won’t be surprised if the OP wants to rebuild or get working anything and everything he has (and needs to add) on this rig. I completely understand that.

Try choking the carb. And visually check if you‘re getting the acceleration pump squirt at throttle depression (check with engine not running). Love the progress!

 

[daniel.watters]

Getting after the seats tonight. How do I get at these nuts here so the I can take out the old upholstery and install the new. I’m real time so you can reply here for context but please text your brilliance to 3344677040. Thx!

 

[daniel.watters]

Getting after the seats tonight. How do I remove these pita nuts so that I can remove old upholstery and install new? I’m real time so comment here for context and comedic relief but text me your brilliant solution! 3344677040

 

[daniel.watters]

As you can read, I’m in rural Alabama so ones and zeros only occur when they want to. Duplicates….

 

[tahoe40/45]

I think the rail should slide out of the way to expose the nut

 

[daniel.watters]

Wire wheel on the Metabo. Wired brushes and steel wool. Just knocking off the major stuff and hitting it with rust killer. This way the seat frames are in line with the rest of the truck. Patina / basket case, etc. Also - thx Michael B!

 

[daniel.watters]

I think the rail should slide out of the way to expose the nut

I removed one nut on each side of the rails. I was able to pry upwards slightly and pivot each out of the way…

 

[daniel.watters]

My local upholstery guy replaces the springs with full foam cores.

@wngrog Let’s go back over three and a half years ago…. I trust my SOR kit is designed with springs in mind, yes. Guess I could put another section of foam in there and eliminate springs? Mine have surface crust but are solid…

 

[whitey45]

Daniel, I did the sor foam and original springs a while back, and was real happy with the results.

 

[daniel.watters]

Daniel, I did the sor foam and original springs a while back, and was real happy with the results.

Sweet. It’s settled then. I’ll hopefully post photos when I get it knocked out.

 

[daniel.watters]

Halfway there.