A/C system - how to remove the cooling unit, evaporator, expansion valve (1 Viewer)

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I have a new annoyance with my 80. Due to the Turbo AND the York air comp, accessing the low pressure port is a royal PITA now. :bang: Does anyone know if there's a clever way to extend this port or maybe use a short extension of hose with the correct fittings at both ends? If not, I'll have to remove the low pressure manifold/hard pipe thing from the compressor and the firewall, then take it to a shop to introduce a new low pressure port conveniently located.
 
Fantastic and very detailed article / post of a very tricky subject that we are all (other than I guess aircon techies) a little afraid :frown: of ! Congrats.
 
Fantastic and very detailed article / post of a very tricky subject that we are all (other than I guess aircon techies) a little afraid :frown: of ! Congrats.

Thank you sir, hope you have chilled air during these hot summer months :cheers:
 
I have a new annoyance with my 80. Due to the Turbo AND the York air comp, accessing the low pressure port is a royal PITA now. :bang: Does anyone know if there's a clever way to extend this port or maybe use a short extension of hose with the correct fittings at both ends? If not, I'll have to remove the low pressure manifold/hard pipe thing from the compressor and the firewall, then take it to a shop to introduce a new low pressure port conveniently located.

Unfortunately, 'adding' a service port to the low side line somewhere near the evaporator seems the only solution. You might be able to buy that fitting in a conversion kit and have it TIG welded to the low side by a competent welder.
 
Unfortunately, 'adding' a service port to the low side line somewhere near the evaporator seems the only solution. You might be able to buy that fitting in a conversion kit and have it TIG welded to the low side by a competent welder.

Let me make sure I understand. You're saying to TIG weld in a low pressure port fitting on the pipe right before it goes into the firewall? Can you provide me a link to an example of a fitting you're referring to pls? To me, a conversion kit is a kit that converts R12 to R134a with different style of nipples that are screwed on to the existing R12 nipples.
 
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Just to confirm it's difficult to access, but possible? If so I'd leave it as is and get any leaks sorted out.

I did a bunch of work on my AC system four years ago and haven't had to add any refrigerant since (still blows ice cold). Once yours is dialed in you shouldn't need to access it very often.
 
Let me make sure I understand. You're saying to TIG weld in a low pressure port fitting on the pipe right before it goes into the firewall? Can you provide me a link to an example of a fitting you're referring to pls? To me, a conversion kit is a kit that converts R12 to R134a with different style of nipples that are screwed on to the existing R12 nipples.

Correct. Take a low side R134a fitting (made for a conversion), scallop the bottom to fit the rounded profile of the low side line. Pop a small hole in the low side line, TIG weld the fitting over the hole. The fitting MUST be aluminum and I'd have a certified welder look at the fitting before moving forward to see if he thinks it is a compatible alloy to TIG onto the line. No guarantees.



There are 'Saddle Taps' that could be used with an Old Style R12 line on the manifold gauge set...BUT they always leak at some point. That would be my last choice.

IF you can get on your low side fitting now (difficult as it is) I'd leave well enough alone. IF its really a PITA to do so...then you need to come up with something.
 
Copy that, thank you for the detailed explanation. I might leave well enough alone, like you said as I have two sets of manifold gauges and one of them does work with a huge amount of PITA. It's the knurled knob on the quick connect valve that is interfering so I might just turn it down on a lathe or something. I hate to monkey with the low pressure line as it is a royal PITA to get to now and the solution probably won't be to my satisfaction.

The thing is, Toyota put TWO high press ports in the same area with two diff angles but only one low press port in the same area. :bang:
 
Copy that, thank you for the detailed explanation. I might leave well enough alone, like you said as I have two sets of manifold gauges and one of them does work with a huge amount of PITA. It's the knurled knob on the quick connect valve that is interfering so I might just turn it down on a lathe or something. I hate to monkey with the low pressure line as it is a royal PITA to get to now and the solution probably won't be to my satisfaction.

The thing is, Toyota put TWO high press ports in the same area with two diff angles but only one low press port in the same area. :bang:

Yeah, noticed that on mine....looking at it the other day. Go figure.
 
Copy that, thank you for the detailed explanation. I might leave well enough alone, like you said as I have two sets of manifold gauges and one of them does work with a huge amount of PITA. It's the knurled knob on the quick connect valve that is interfering so I might just turn it down on a lathe or something. I hate to monkey with the low pressure line as it is a royal PITA to get to now and the solution probably won't be to my satisfaction.

The thing is, Toyota put TWO high press ports in the same area with two diff angles but only one low press port in the same area. :bang:

Yorks are an ugly eye-sore that is the blight on any engine compartment. You know what you should do. :idea:
 
Yorks are an ugly eye-sore that is the blight on any engine compartment. You know what you should do. :idea:
Eye sore or not, a York’s output is only necessary for those who NEED to run air tools in the great outdoors. It’s overkill for the vast majority.
 
Eye sore or not, a York’s output is only necessary for those who NEED to run air tools in the great outdoors. It’s overkill for the vast majority.
That's also blasphemy 😂

Air is handy for other things than running air tools, which I don't do. Let's see, there's the pneumatic blender for margaritas, blowing off the back of the rig after arriving at a spot for the night, airing up two rigs simulataneously, blowing up SUPs, and on and on 😁
 
Blasphemy 😁

Indeed.

Have 3 sitting in my shop right now and one on my Early Model Bronco......that I've used around the Ranch for many years. LOTS of air.

3 Yorks.jpg
 
That's also blasphemy 😂

Air is handy for other things than running air tools, which I don't do. Let's see, there's the pneumatic blender for margaritas, blowing off the back of the rig after arriving at a spot for the night, airing up two rigs simulataneously, blowing up SUPs, and on and on 😁
I have mounted underneith, in the rear, an extreme air magnum that will do all that. The York puts out magnificent CFM that you don’t need. Sell it and use the money to buy an electric pump and have room to install a food warmer over the manifold. Oh yeah, and enjoy better access to the engine ancillaries.
 
I have mounted underneith, in the rear, an extreme air magnum that will do all that. The York puts out magnificent CFM that you don’t need. Sell it and use the money to buy an electric pump and have room to install a food warmer over the manifold. Oh yeah, and enjoy better access to the engine ancillaries.

More blasphemy 😁. I can ALWAYS use all the air it puts out and does it quietly and efficiently.
 
More blasphemy 😁. I can ALWAYS use all the air it puts out and does it quietly and efficiently.
Then suffer the consequences.
 
Just tried adding r12a synthetic( meant to be compatible with r134a) to my system. No cold at all and when checked and when checked pressure on low side it went from 30 to 50. So I guess a blockage it is. Will try expansion valve.
 
Some pics from couple of days ago:

Pic of where the evap meets up with the hard A/C lines in the engine bay. To the right is the blower compartment where you'll find all sorts of debris and sometimes mouse nest!

Second pic is of the cooling unit as it sits in the vehicle.

Third pic shows the clips and phillips screws that keep the two halves together.
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I seem to be missing one of the relays located on top of this unit would you happen to know what relay this is?

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