A/C system - how to remove the cooling unit, evaporator, expansion valve (13 Viewers)

[sunrk]

I dunno if the LHD configuration uses the exact same setup (just reversed) as our RHD 80 series, but with mine I need to take out the main air box assembly (not just the AC evap unit) because the airmix damper is jamming or broken and will not go all the way over to the cold position. I've got a good spare assembly from a wrecker, and OMG I even managed to get a brand new genuine Toyota made in Australia RHD AC evap assembly some years back which I've hung onto as I know how rare it is.

RHD main air box assembly:

pic page

To do the full job will require complete removal of the dash. It's a job I need to do at some point anyway as it's the only way to completely view and examine the inside of the bodywork hidden by the dash to see if it's got any rust, etc.

Craig.

 

[F80FJ]

This thread has been very helpful. My mechanic said that I need a new AC evaporator. Anything else I should replace at the same time while he’s in there?

1995 with 215k

 

[Landseer]

Why does the evaporator need to be replaced? Its not a part that fails frequently. If you do replace it definitely replace the expansion valve,(they're cheap and will be easily accessible with the evaporator out). The dryer/accumulator should be replaced anytime the system is open, new o-rings are always a good idea.

Maybe take a loop at the condenser, they can warp and start to leak as they get old. (probably overkill)

Use Denso parts for everything, they're the same as OEM but much cheaper.

 

[GeoRoss]

Replace the schrader valves. Super cheap and easy to do when the system is open.

 

[flintknapper]

Replace the schrader valves. Super cheap and easy to do when the system is open.

^^^^^ Yes. They can be a cause of slow leaks.

 

[MoGas]

A few months ago, I had dye coming out of my evaporator case, so I thought the evaporator was going to be bad, mine is a 1993 Arizona truck with R-12.

Once I got in there, it was a bad o-ring. I cleaned it all up, it really only had 20 plus years of desert dirt on it, so not too bad, replaced he o-rings, put it all back together, went through the whole system and replaced all the o-rings, replaced the Schrader cores, replaced the receiver-drier, vacuumed it down, filled it up with the correct charge of R-12, and I'm blowing 35* out the vents now. Brrr.

 

[maxamillion2345]

35 is dang good

 

[flintknapper]

35 is dang good

Yep....35° F. would be "as good as it gets" with any available refrigerant and a perfectly working system.

You could put 'left-overs' in your vehicle and they would keep.

 

[BigAxeJack]

Kudos to the OP, this is a very informative write-up. It's FAQ worthy, imho.

 

[alia176]

Kudos to the OP, this is a very informative write-up. It's FAQ worthy, imho.

Thanks and I'm happy to see it being used as a resource.

 

[TuffMudder]

Tag. I'll be doing this this weekend! Definitely FAQ worth

Thanks!

 

[Hornd]

Wanted to add a post with additional tech content and don't think this has been mentioned in Ali's otherwise excellent A/C system "how-to" thread. Although some of this info can be found in other A/C threads, it's good to include it here too.

If you want to source all the o-rings you'll ever need for the FZJ80 A/C system, then you want the Santech MT2580 o-ring kit. For ~$10 you get 35+ metric o-rings that handle all of the FZJ80 A/C components. (I got this info from a thread that @1972FJ55 posted, so credit really needs go to him.) Although the packaging says "Made in China," the quality seems to be quite good. Also, as noted in other threads, do not use PAG compressor oil to lubricate these o-rings as it makes the rubber sticky. Several years ago when I was rebuilding the fuel injectors for my FJ62 I bought a tube of Dow Corning Molykote 55 and have used it ever since for all o-rings, including the A/C system. A tube or 1/4 oz jar of this stuff will last you a lifetime! Mineral oil is reported to also work well for the o-rings in the A/C system.

Definitely do the O-rings whilst you are in there.
I did the whole rebuild and compressor Manifold Leaked - and ended up with more work and 3# R134A Leaked
Bought the $10 O-Ring Kit on Rock. Lubed with Mineral Oil.
Needed to remove the Thermostat to get the Manifold off (Allen Head screws in Manifold).
Remove the coolant before you crack the thermostat off.
Toyota Thermostat does not come with gasket.
Might be a good time to address Compressor Belt and Tension while you are in there as well.

It's amazing that these compressors work so well after 200K Miles and 23 yrs!...Designed right!


*With AC keep in Mind that Cleanliness is next to Godliness. They do not like dirt inside a looping closed system.

** Walmart has 12 oz cans of R134A regular price $4.88. If you know what Freon (R12) did then buy 3 cans and put on shelf. The don't go bad.

***Add the UV Dye with Oil. Black lights are cheap and you save yourself a ton of hair pulling. Not sure why they don't add at the Factory to a $85K Truck?

 

[MoGas]

Kudos to the OP, this is a very informative write-up. It's FAQ worthy, imho.

It's in the FAQ under "Maintenance/Trail Fix"

 

[tpizza01]

Great thread @alia176 !!!! Totally helpful since I've never pulled this unit before

Lost ac a couple of years ago and decided it wasn't that important over other issues (lol). Decided to troubleshoot and sure enough I had dye coming out of the drain hole. I ordered an expansion valve and orings in hopes that was the only issue but pulling the whole unit last night revealed no dye on the expansion valve, and a lot of it on the trashed bottom of the unit - so a unit is on the way. Should be an easy fix from here on out.

Questions though:

1) When I went to move my truck back to another spot on my driveway - no start. Do those plugs I pulled have anything to do with it? Thought it was odd.

2) This is for anyone - Before I go putting it all back together, I wanted to ask if anyone knows of a way to PREVENT all the trash from getting into that box? Seems like we should be looking at that instead of swapping evaporators. I thought maybe a screen on the inlet or something but not sure.

 

[tpizza01]

Also, regarding parts. Rockauto is usually the first place I go for replacement parts. For this I ordered all Denso and paid less than 200 total - which included the evaporator unit, expansion valve, and O-rings. The eu was the most at 160 total. Totally worth it and way less money than a dealer or parts store.

 

[alia176]

Great thread @alia176 !!!! Totally helpful since I've never pulled this unit before

Lost ac a couple of years ago and decided it wasn't that important over other issues (lol). Decided to troubleshoot and sure enough I had dye coming out of the drain hole. I ordered an expansion valve and orings in hopes that was the only issue but pulling the whole unit last night revealed no dye on the expansion valve, and a lot of it on the trashed bottom of the unit - so a unit is on the way. Should be an easy fix from here on out.

Questions though:

1) When I went to move my truck back to another spot on my driveway - no start. Do those plugs I pulled have anything to do with it? Thought it was odd.

2) This is for anyone - Before I go putting it all back together, I wanted to ask if anyone knows of a way to PREVENT all the trash from getting into that box? Seems like we should be looking at that instead of swapping evaporators. I thought maybe a screen on the inlet or something but not sure.

1) Hmm, none of the A/C related plugs should mess with your starting BUT, you're playing in the area where the ECU resides. Perhaps you bumped something in the process?

2) I fashioned a rodent screen that goes over the fresh air intake that lives in the cowl (base of the windshield) area. This area is hard to access but can be done. There was a thread here long time ago about someone in the UAE designing a drop in filter deal for this intake opening. I'm not sure how far that went.

 

[tpizza01]

Awesome, thanks! I'll look into the ECU bit for sure

 

[tpizza01]

Winds up I pulled oooone more plug that I wasn't supposed to pull hahahaha

 

[94GLX]

Does anyone know if a LHD evaporator will fit a RHD FZJ80? They appear identical.

LHD: 88501-60101
RHD: 88501-60111

LHD:

RHD:

 

[flintknapper]

Same part number and the fact that the receiver for the TXV is centered (not on one side or the other) suggests it is interchangeable. So yes....I would think so.